1940s Wheels on mechanical brake Drums??

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Maybe I didn't search for it the right way, but can the 1940 (-& post) steel wheels be used safely on the earlier (1932-39) mechanical brake drum systems?

While on the topic of 1940-ish wheels, can these be run Tubeless, -or is it best to use tubes??

[deuce lover]

First 1940's wheels will NOT work on 1936-39 drums.SO if you are using32-35 drums you will need a spacer rings because there are nubs on the drum for the spoke wheel hub.Model A parts vendors might have them.Those nubs will prevent the wheel from sitting flat on the drum surface.

[cadillac512]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Maybe I didn't search for it the right way, but can the 1940 (-& post) steel wheels be used safely on the earlier (1932-39) mechanical brake drum systems?

While on the topic of 1940-ish wheels, can these be run Tubeless, -or is it best to use tubes??

My 1941 wheels have been running fine tubeless for 31,000 miles.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by deuce lover

First 1940's wheels will NOT work on 1936-39 drums.SO if you are using32-35 drums you will need a spacer rings because there are nubs on the drum for the spoke wheel hub. Model A parts vendors might have them. Those nubs will prevent the wheel from sitting flat on the drum surface.

Yes, I forgot about those with Wide-5 pattern. Thanks for the reminder

So, excluding the wheels with the Wide-5 lug pattern, will the 1940-ish wheels work on '32-'36 standard brake drums with the 5x5½?? I am getting conflicting information which is why I am asking. I have been told by some folks (like you) that Wheel Support Ring adapters are needed ...however others have said the 32 (-& up) cast iron drums have the supports built into them which adapter rings are not required. I have been told using the 1940-ish wheels on Model-A drums requires the use of the adapter rings. So hopefully you see why I am asking.


Thanks for the heads-up on Tubeless.

[GB SISSON]

In the 'old days' I liked a tube for the added insurance. Today's thin, overseas produced tubes have proven to be more of a liability than an asset. I have seen abrasion failures from a tiny speck of sand in between tire and tube and have had 2 failures ar the valve stem itself. Once you go tubeless, you never go back....

[deuce lover]

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Here are pics, of a 32-34 brake drum ,a '40 wheel and a 35 wire wheel. You need a spacer ring on the exterior of the studs at the same height as the nubs behind the studs for the 40 wheel to sit flat.

[34fordy]

Brent, I have done this before. I made my own discs at .200 thickness. This evens out the mating surfaces. The problem you will also encounter is the studs will probably be a bit short to use the whole nut for proper tightening. I took some long nuts and tapered the bottom of them so that the threads would get deeper onto the stud. This worked very well for me. The disc is also tapered at the stud. I put a little scotch tape on the drum so that I could center the tapers on each stud. Probably overkill. My 36 pickup has the true wide 5 so if you have an interest in buying these let me know. Or if you have the equipment to make them it is a fun project.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

Brent, I have done this before. I made my own discs at .200 thickness. This evens out the mating surfaces. The problem you will also encounter is the studs will probably be a bit short to use the whole nut for proper tightening. I took some long nuts and tapered the bottom of them so that the threads would get deeper onto the stud. This worked very well for me. The disc is also tapered at the stud. I put a little scotch tape on the drum so that I could center the tapers on each stud. Probably overkill. My 36 pickup has the true wide 5 so if you have an interest in buying these let me know. Or if you have the equipment to make them it is a fun project.

[Mart]

Depending how precious you are on the drums you can grind the raised nubs off. I did this on the back of my Roadster which uses 32 rear drums and 40 wheels.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Mart

Depending how precious you are on the drums you can grind the raised nubs off. I did this on the back of my Roadster which uses 32 rear drums and 40 wheels.

As in either clamp them to the Bridgeport table and reach down with an end mill to machine them, -or chuck the drum in a lathe and use a boring bar to reach in to them?? That seems simple enough with either method...

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by Mart

Depending how precious you are on the drums you can grind the raised nubs off. I did this on the back of my Roadster which uses 32 rear drums and 40 wheels.

Evidently taking a little meat off the drums is OK. I would assume that not only the "nubs" but the entire circumference where the rims lip touches would need to be eliminated.I have seen Mart's videos where he "spanks" that little roadster!