Electronic ignition

[Richard in Florida]

Originally Posted by Ol' Ron

When Richard was doing all his ignition testing, he tried numerous plug gap settings and as Bubba says the stock works best. Especially on a low compression engine like a flathead. Max plug voltage id quite low 8-10 K on a 8.5CR.

Yup, all true. A smart man taught me that it's the engine, the combustion chamber, that dictates plug gap... not the ignition system.

I love reading posts in "muscle car" forums by guys bragging about how wide their plug gaps are. In our world, all mammoth plug gaps do is wear out your ignition system in a big hurry.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

Can one of you smart guys confirm/deny my thought process:
I've always thought that the Battery was the "cushion" in the system.
In that you charge the battery and all attending connections come
from a point from the battery? No?
Maybe Jseery can explain it better?
I have been running Pertronix modules for more than 25 years, using
solid core Packard 440 wires and alternators. No troubles, and no cushioning device
Jim

Everything is in parallel and the battery does act as a buffer. BUT not sure it is than simple because you would have to know what the electronics are sensitive to and what all is floating on the generator signal. As Bubba has stated a scope would indicate what was coming out of the generator, but you would still need to know what the electronics are sensitive to.

[flatheadmurre]

Since all wires has resistans and the power to the ignition originally is taken between the generator and the battery you should in theory get a cleaner power if you attach the ignition directly to the battery pole.

[Kahuna]

Maybe if I were using a generator, the interference would be different from using an alternator.
Anyway, I haven't had any issues. Thanks, J for the diagram/help
Jim

[JSeery]

An alternator would be the same basic arrangement. You most likely have an internal regulator, but the alternator, battery and vehicle loads are all still in parallel and all connected to ground. The battery is still acting as a buffer for the alternator with the same issues of what else is riding on the alternator output and what, if anything, messes with the electronics. I would guess not much as yours seems to be working fine! The interference would be different between an alternator and a generator.

[koates]

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Electronic ignition systems are great on a flathead when they are working well. When they pack up way out in the middle of knowhere you are stuffed and generally wont be able to fix it. The original ford helmet and crab systems are very good and reliable for touring cars and can be repaired fairly easily if there is a problem. Carry spare points, condenser and coil. Henrys original design called for the distributer to be serviced every 50,000 miles ! Of course all the components in the system should be in excellent like new condition and not eighty year old used components which should have been thrown out years ago. Regards, Kevin.

[Drbrown]

My '47 has an alternator and electronic crab. Been running a number of years without any problem. Babba made me a matching spare kit including coil which I keep in my trunk (along with a carb and pump). If the electronic dies, I just need to do the swap and I'd be ready to continue.