![]() |
Electronic ignition I am considering changing the ignition on my 52 Victoria to an electronic system. I am curious if those that have tried it find it to be a worthwhile upgrade. I have always felt that the ignition on the flat heads to be shakey, at best, I would hope that this will make it foolproof.
Thanks. |
Re: Electronic ignition Go ahead and do it. No more points to fiddle with.
You will never regret it. Your stock distributor has a vacuum advance so check with Bubba' Ignition t find out which electronic ignition would be best for you. |
Re: Electronic ignition It's like everyting else ,If they work there great. When they don't there junk. I have a Mallory breakerless from speedway mtrs, on my 48. The module went out of it within a few months. That's ben 20 years ago. Haven;t had any trouble sense. My car ran a lot sharper the minute I pot it in. Could have ben the old dist. wasn't right I would do it again Be sure and use the surge box or what ever they call it.
|
Re: Electronic ignition Yes, the surge protector is a must. In case of a voltage spike it protects your distributor's
electronics parts. |
Re: Electronic ignition Jim & 48cpe. What surge protector are you guys talking about?
I've never heard of this before, nor used one? Thanks Jim |
Re: Electronic ignition It's a little box about 2 by 2 in. wires [ I think ] connects in series from the hot wire to the ignition hot wire It s kind of like a resister . It just absorbs the spike in voltage from the gen. or alternator I think that is why I lost the first module I didn't have one on
|
Re: Electronic ignition Huh. Never knew they existed
|
Re: Electronic ignition Quote:
6 VOLT WITH GENERATOR MIGHT NEED ONE OF THESE : http://mallory-ignition.com/active-power-filter.html |
Re: Electronic ignition You have 2 things to fight.
1. Voltage spikes that go higher then the ignition can handle. This is solved by installing a metal oxide varistor between power in and ground. The mov is passive until the clamping voltage is reached. Select clamping voltage to fit aplication 6/12v. 2. Stray frequencys. Noise coming from ignition and generators. A choke coil lets DC current pass and filters away AC frequencys. Noise filters for car audio is cheap ;) |
Re: Electronic ignition Quote:
It says this is compatible with their "Unilite" distributors. Can it be used in other applications? Do you know the "pin-outs" on it? |
Re: Electronic ignition Quote:
I think it is needed on any electronic unit especially if you are using a generator etc. Many generators produce some really nasty looking voltage. A clean rebuild generator with a good quality voltage regulator might not need one at all..... |
Re: Electronic ignition I have a Pertronix unit along w/their coil in my 8BA , and as Bubba says a "clean rebuilt generator and a good , quality voltage regulator ". No problems after 2 yrs. , so far .
|
Re: Electronic ignition A simple capacitor at the generator calms down some of it to.
|
Re: Electronic ignition Also change to a higher voltage output coil so you can run a larger plug gap which will improve mileage and performance. Just make sure you have good plug wires.
|
Re: Electronic ignition Quote:
|
Re: Electronic ignition Quote:
Plug gap goes with the engine (not the ignition system) a low compression flathead doesnt really benefit from a wider gap. The advent of the wider gaps came with leaner air fuel mixture and emission standards. I guess if the flathead was lean then a wider gap might help try to ignite the air fuel mixture. However the wider gap requires that the coil put out extra voltage . Extra voltage can be hard on the plastics used in these old ignitions. |
Re: Electronic ignition Ok , I understand . Thanks Bubba ! - FF
|
Re: Electronic ignition When Richard was doing all his ignition testing, he tried numerous plug gap settings and as Bubba says the stock works best. Especially on a low compression engine like a flathead. Max plug voltage id quite low 8-10 K on a 8.5CR.
|
Re: Electronic ignition When I first got my crab style electronic distributor, I opened the plug gap to .040. I continually had trouble with the caps cracking or carbon tracking. Went back to .025 gap. The engine still runs great and haven't had a cap problem in years
|
Re: Electronic ignition Can one of you smart guys confirm/deny my thought process:
I've always thought that the Battery was the "cushion" in the system. In that you charge the battery and all attending connections come from a point from the battery? No? Maybe Jseery can explain it better? I have been running Pertronix modules for more than 25 years, using solid core Packard 440 wires and alternators. No troubles, and no cushioning device Jim |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:17 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.