Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubby Sharp in KY
How in the world does a head bolt work on a model T or a modern high compression engine? It would be nearly impossible to get full threads and proper tourque on a head bolt ! I think Purdy swoft has a good idea about using the ignition clamp studs . I am well pleased with the Snyder heads preformance and a lot of other people must be too, be thankful we have them. Bubby Sharp in KY
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Bubby, I agree with you on all you post except, what Purdy suggests. Using the distributor wire stud, goes against the original posters problem which, is the studs are too short because of the thickness of the head. Using the stud Purdy suggests would make the stud too long which would be as bad. In the end for judging, the studs are WRONG as are the heads WRONG. The heads are wrong in another sense as they are marked at the time they are cast and the originals are marked also. The 5.5 heads have 2 round bumps on the top on the driver side with 5 picks on each which designates them as 5.5 heads. The original heads have a dimple on the front between the water outlet mount and the pump mount which looks like a 3/16" X 1/16" bump.
I just see that for judging, which is the original posters issue, the heads have more discrepancies than just the stud boss thickness. Besides that, where did he go anyway? Why is he not part of this discussion?