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Old 03-29-2026, 04:48 PM   #16
Flathead Fever
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 1,492
Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

I have an unfinished Boorkville body sitting on a nice original late model original frame. At first, it was sitting too high but then I slid it back a little bit and boom it fell down onto the frame. it's a tight fit. It was such a tight fit onto the frame that just being off a little bit made all the difference.

I have another '32 frame without the factory rear reinforcements to prevent the horn from settling down. It had bent down rear horns. I made a templet from my perfect frame. I laid the frame on the ground and stuck about a 1000 lbs. of block on the rear of it and heated the rear kickups where they were bulged out from the rearend hitting them. Then I took a floor jack and jacked the frame horns up until they matched my templet and I tapped the bulges back in. Then I built my own reinforcements similar to the late model '32s. Most of those early frames without the reinforcements I've seen have sagging rear frame horns and frame bulges. Before you mess with them make sure the body is lined up so it fits all the way down onto the frame.

Your frame including the firewall should fit flush onto the frame with just the thin frame webbing between the frame and body. At least that's what I remember since my stroke. could be wrong, I'd verify that. I'm doing a '34 pickup and it has wooden body blocks but if I remember correctly the '32 cars don't use blocks. I don't trust my memory since my stroke; The auto parts stores sell a box of different thickness alignment shims that work well for slipping between the frame and body to get the doors to fit. I bolted the four corners of the body to the frame and then jack the center of the body up until the doors were level with the quarter panels and slid some shims between the frame and body. It worked really well.

Last edited by Flathead Fever; 03-29-2026 at 04:55 PM.
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