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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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I took a number of photos and dimensions. The measurements listed on your body photos are from the bottom of the body to the outside of the running board bead which is equal to the bottom of the frame.
It looks to me that the body from rear door opening to the rear of the body is too high. Is the top of the door opening dimension the same as the bottom? I also show that the rear body to frame is just the thickness of the frame welting. Your picture in post #17 looks to be too great but can't tell well from the picture. I have about 5mm of gas tank to body gap. Front of door rearmost
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford Last edited by glennpm; 03-17-2026 at 10:47 AM. |
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Belgium, West Europ
Posts: 111
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Under the A pillar : approx 4 1/2 in (11,5cm), same thing under B pillar,
Distance D : 2 3/4 (7cm) |
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#23 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Belgium, West Europ
Posts: 111
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How it look underneath
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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#25 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2025
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 226
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In the underneath shot the curve over the frame kick-up appears to not align with the high point of the frame. It looks like the body needs to go back a little. That may pivot the rear end down a bit but then you may have door fitting issues or the cowl would need to come up more than it is up right now. I do think you should try and fit the doors, then the rear end back and down and see how high cowl feel fall short. All that said it might be simpler and neater in the end to pie cut the frame and push the rails up to where you need them to be. Are you running fenders? That will certainly complicate things but with a reproduction body one has to expect to make some adjustments. Do you have chassis modification rules where you live? I know some countries do not allow one to cut and weld on the chassis.
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Looking up by shock suppressor Last edited by glennpm; 03-17-2026 at 02:10 PM. |
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#27 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Could be that the floor edge reinforcement is raising the body incorrectly.
__________________
Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#28 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: middle of Iowa
Posts: 1,001
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My brother has an original Ford 5-window body on an original frame that has a gap similar to the pic of Glen’s above. Required a shim or two in front of the axle, and even more at the last mounting bolt.
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#29 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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So what is your plan Harold?
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#30 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Belgium, West Europ
Posts: 111
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I’m still looking for a solution. It takes time. To much time.
I think I’ll heat and bend the rear pick up to rise the tank 1in. |
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#31 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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If you're not running fenders, that may be the easiest fix.
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#32 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Belgium, West Europ
Posts: 111
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Yes, it will be a pre war style hot rod
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#33 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 271
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I wonder how well the Brookville roaster bodies fit.
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#34 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,901
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I think I would check the door fit and measure the opening (distance between pillars) before doing anything to avoid creating a big problem in that area.
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#35 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Yes, me too. I think the replacement floor with the edge reinforcement is the problem. If it was me, I'd cut the floor out and replace it with a correct repo floor.
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#36 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Belgium, West Europ
Posts: 111
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Actually, the door opening is kept by a square tubing bolted to the A pilar and the B pilar.
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#37 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Belgium, West Europ
Posts: 111
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#38 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Belgium, West Europ
Posts: 111
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Here are few pics I found of Swedish bodies on original frames.
Some cars have a big gap, some not. The most signifiant is the last one. |
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#39 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Some of them don't look too bad. The brown one, the last, as you mention is huge.
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#40 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: FP, NJ
Posts: 2,828
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I know I've read it in the past (I forget where) but original frames were subject to being bent. If a driver has a tank full of gas and a spare tire mounted back there, all of that weight is hanging out there a good distance from the rear crossmember. Traveling at a good speed and hitting a significant bump will create enough of a bending moment on the frame to bend it.
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