Time for a head gasket...

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by Colorado kid

Do you think he should maybe check his block for flat spots or might mill the head since he’s got it removed?

I certainly will. I have a precision straight edge and a flashlight. If I need to get better than that, I have a nice piece of float glass and a tube of Prussian Blue...but Dog help me if I have to open that tube. My elder brother smeared some under the handle of my toolbox once when I was a kid. My hand was blue for months...

Opening up an engine is usually an exercise in "check everything you can" vs "what else can go wrong?" or "gee, I gotta spend more money than I expected". Everything that can be checked will be. Everything will be cleaned to the best of my ability. Valve seats will be eyeballed too. I used to have an old-fashioned hand-crank valve lapping tool, I wonder what happened to it?

Naturally, you can find them on ebay...

[jg61hawk]

Far be from me to question guys like Paul Shinn but I don't like the idea of putting something into the cylinder and making the piston push it against the head...I'm thinking bad stuff like hydro-lock and bent rods.

I have done two heads used the tools that screw into the plug holes and worked it loose. That video is very nice...a little too clean for me to believe. The head popped doff the hood could stay on no head studs twisted out with the nuts...man that was easy. My jobs took 6 hours and two days to remove the heads!

[Randall]

Sometimes they can be a bear to get off! Good luck https://youtu.be/MtgvnT6ab0U?si=q7mBc5n1MpTzgLMV

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by Randall

Sometimes they can be a bear to get off! Good luck https://youtu.be/MtgvnT6ab0U?si=q7mBc5n1MpTzgLMV

Yikes! That looked like it needed a little C4 and some sandy soil to catch it when it returned to earth..

[Bruce of MN]

I would pull the long water outlet studs to eliminate their effect on removing the head.

[Ayers1]

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Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

I would pull the long water outlet studs to eliminate their effect on removing the head.

If you can get those studs out, it will help a lot.

[JayJay]

I use a jam nut on top of the regular nut, or if necessary two jam nuts, and remove as many of the studs as will come out. I use an eye threaded into a couple of spark plug sockets to pull upwards. A few smacks with a dead blow hammer on the side of the head, while pulling upwards, usually pops it loose. I do pull the manifolds off to get them out of the way. Plastic shims like you use to install doors can help and won’t damage machined surfaces, but be careful you don’t drive them against the valves.

Copper clad head gaskets are a lot easier to remove than graphite, but I think the graphite gaskets seal better.

[Bruce of MN]

I use this type of stud remover, it is concentric and that seems better than other types.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...3&gclsrc=3p.ds

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by jg61hawk

Far be from me to question guys like Paul Shinn but I don't like the idea of putting something into the cylinder and making the piston push it against the head...I'm thinking bad stuff like hydro-lock and bent rods.

Yeah, not a fan .

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

I use this type of stud remover, it is concentric and that seems better than other types.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...3&gclsrc=3p.ds

I have one of these, works fine if the head is off, not so well if it isn’t. I also find that it sometimes won't grip a hardened stud well. When that's the case I break out one I have like this one, although you need to be very careful when applying torque as it's off-center and not too difficult to twist off the stud.

[Trapdoor2]

Ok, I received my package from Snyder's...and problem solved.

Rule #1: do the quick and easy first: now having the wrench to work around the Distributor, I re-torqued the head (in the proper sequence). Not a single nut was at 55in/lb. Some got a few degrees of rotation, some got more.

Topped up the radiator, checked the oil and cranked her up, no steam. Let her get to temp (I have one of those cheap IR thermometers with the laser), no steam. Took her around the block, no steam. Stopped, eyeballed everything, rechecked all the fluids and put 10mi on her just looping around the neighborhood. Got her back in the driveway and temps were 200F at the rear of the head, 180F at the front. 145F in the upper hose and 130F at the radiator cap. And...my moto-meter isn't working...

Looks like that took care of the problem! At least I now have a head gasket in reserve (and studs, nuts, etc.).

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Trapdoor2

...Got her back in the driveway and temps were 200F at the rear of the head, 180F at the front. 145F in the upper hose and 130F at the radiator cap. And...my moto-meter isn't working...

FWIW, I find that my MotoMeter doesn't show any red until the water is about 180 or above (I have a temperature gauge).

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by JayJay

FWIW, I find that my MotoMeter doesn't show any red until the water is about 180 or above (I have a temperature gauge).

Yes, I just did a search here and read about that. I guess if I get that curious, I'll take it out and dip it in my coffee mug to test it...

Living here in the South, I may add a temp gauge for summer driving. I just would like to keep the dash uncluttered as much as possible.

[Fullraceflathead]

I would retest the torque on the head bolts after the engines completely cold.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Trapdoor2

Ok, I received my package from Snyder's...and problem solved.

Rule #1: do the quick and easy first: now having the wrench to work around the Distributor, I re-torqued the head (in the proper sequence). Not a single nut was at 55in/lb. Some got a few degrees of rotation, some got more.

Topped up the radiator, checked the oil and cranked her up, no steam. Let her get to temp (I have one of those cheap IR thermometers with the laser), no steam. Took her around the block, no steam. Stopped, eyeballed everything, rechecked all the fluids and put 10mi on her just looping around the neighborhood. Got her back in the driveway and temps were 200F at the rear of the head, 180F at the front. 145F in the upper hose and 130F at the radiator cap. And...my moto-meter isn't working...

Looks like that took care of the problem! At least I now have a head gasket in reserve (and studs, nuts, etc.).

After it cools down, recheck the torque. My Motometer has never been more than a decoration. I have a SW mechanical temp gauge with 270° sweep, easier to read, IMO

oops, I was going to post a picture but looks like Flickr is down.

Edit: Flickr back up.

[nkaminar]

The modern motometers measure the steam temperature. If you see red it is way too hot. The antique ones were calibrated differently and were a better indicator of the actual coolant temperature.