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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,773
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As I recall I think I used 195X75 on my '40 coupe. I have 205-75 on my current tudor '40. They are a tad too big in my opinion.
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,052
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You all Know about using '36 axle and wishbones in a 37-40 chassis? More room for the drop and the spindle arms. Wishbone 'spread' is narrower and the axle bosses are 2".Newc
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#23 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Quote:
The little red cap covers grease fitting on extender to clear steering arm. Last edited by 19Fordy; 02-06-2026 at 01:58 PM. |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,773
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I've also used a Magnum axle on three cars. Instead I used Chassis Engineering steering arms as they are bolted through the arm, spindle, and the backing plates(if using drum brakes) and secured with a nut.
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#25 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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Quote:
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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#27 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rathdrum Idaho
Posts: 780
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I think I am in for a fight. I started to prepare to remove axle on 40 today. Going okay until I got ot the bolt on left perch. My impact socket my good long Snapon breaker and 2 foot cheater and still no go. Heat will be on tomorrow. I have a feeling I will need to remove wishbone from the car and leave attached to axle and work on in the open with a rosebud. My question is is the wishbone easy to unbolt from the car. I can't remember if I've ever removed one before.
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#28 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 950
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Heat is your friend.
__________________
Cars are like potato chips, its hard to have just one. |
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#29 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Sid, Wishbone with axle and spring assembly is easy to remove on a 40 Ford. Jack car up and remove U-bolt nuts and then wishbone cup. Do not lay down under axle assembly when doing this. USE 4 LEGGED JACK STANDS. When you use heat do not hammer directly on the threaded end of the perch bolt to harshly or you will damage the threads. Be sure to keep a threaded nut on the threads to prevent distortion. Use anti seize when reassembling.
Last edited by 19Fordy; 02-13-2026 at 10:42 AM. |
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#30 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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Quote:
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#31 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,132
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Removing the spring perch bolts is the real problem here. It has been approached on the H.A.M.B. several times. Check this out : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...4/#post-948132.
Some folks think it is better to pull them out : https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/.../#post-1548429. There are a lot of threads over there on the subject. It might be worthwhile to spend some time going through them. Last edited by tubman; 02-13-2026 at 02:38 PM. |
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#32 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Sid, One more thought. If your 40 doesn't have a "sway bar", now is the time to replace the perch bolts that will accommodate a sway bar.
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#33 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rathdrum Idaho
Posts: 780
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Thanks 19Forty... It does have a sway bar. I got the perches out. Not too bad. I heated the boss up and took my air chisel with a blunt punch and walked them out. No damage. I notice the piece on the wishbone ball is really hard like plastic. Isn't that supposed to be rubber?
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#34 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Quote:
- Lube the stall wishbone ball with silicone grease, window cleaner or dishwashing fluid - Push on the new ball while applying air pressure to the small hole in the back which expand the ball and goes on easily. - Heating the rubber ball up in water helps and may forgo the need for your air compressor I've also put them on by turning them inside in a vise, use lube, push on it while turning it right side out. I use window cleaner and my sir compressor nozzle to take off and install motorcycle had grips too.
__________________
Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#35 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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One more thought:
Double nut the perch bolt. That way you can use it for jacking up one wheel ( instead of the frame or axle) without damaging the threads. Last edited by 19Fordy; 02-14-2026 at 11:43 AM. |
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#36 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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Quote:
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#37 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Thanks Pete.
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#38 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rathdrum Idaho
Posts: 780
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Does the drag link and tie rod generally end up below the wishbone after a axle drop. Only did equivalent to probably a 3.25 drop. 1 1/8 beyond stock.
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#39 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Sid, With a 4 in. dropped axle and steering arms my tie rod and drag link ended up below the stock 40 wishbone as shown in photo in post #36.
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#40 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rathdrum Idaho
Posts: 780
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Thanks 19Fordy.. Got it all together yesterday. Had to pull the drag link and put it under the wishbone.
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