Torque Tube Connection to Transmission

[Terry,OH]

Third Gen Auto in Tenn also has the proper special size nuts for the bolts. I believe the big nuts on your studs are jammed against the steel cover for the U-joint. You will not get the proper assembly with the nuts shown. The U-joint cavity is filled with lube which is going to leak out and the U-joint will be damaged over time driving.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by Terry,OH

Third Gen Auto in Tenn also has the proper special size nuts for the bolts. I believe the big nuts on your studs are jammed against the steel cover for the U-joint. You will not get the proper assembly with the nuts shown. The U-joint cavity is filled with lube which is going to leak out and the U-joint will be damaged over time driving.

Terry, I was thinking the same thing. They look fairly large. So glad Third Gen is making these nuts. They are almost never found in the wild. When they are, I hoard them like a squirrel for winter.

[cas3]

Those undersize nuts are hard to find. Seems to me there is somewhere else on the car that uses them, but I can't think of it now

[Henry Ford IV]

Terry, YES, you are absolutely correct! I was thinking that this is the way it is, these nuts are hard to tighten, being so close to the mount. I never considered that they should be smaller sized, but you got it!

[34fordy]

Pics of 5/8 and 11/16 20 tpi hex nuts. The original in the Green parts book indicates a slotted nut and cotter key. My replacement bolts in a previous post are not drilled for the cotter key as also the ones that I see advertised at 3rdGen.

[Bob C]

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The green parts book show the castle nut as 34031-S and the regular nut as 33881-S.

[DavidG]

Hex nuts hanging up on 'clam shell' because their heads are too big? Should be 5/8" across flats, not more conventional 11/16".

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

Pics of 5/8 and 11/16 20 tpi hex nuts. The original in the Green parts book indicates a slotted nut and cotter key. My replacement bolts in a previous post are not drilled for the cotter key as also the ones that I see advertised at 3rdGen.

[Tim Ayers]

Third Gen mentioned in the new products thread that he has the correct nuts in stock.

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by Tim Ayers

Third Gen mentioned in the new products thread that he has the correct nuts in stock.

They are listed as "upgraded tall nuts" but like the replacement D bolts are not slotted for a cotter key. I am quite sure they would be just fine IMHO!

[19Fordy]

Would it be possible to file the bigger nuts down to 5/8 across the flats?

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

Would it be possible to file the bigger nuts down to 5/8 across the flats?

I could do it in my mill quite easily but I think just chucking them in the lathe and turning a little taper towards the bottom would probably give enough clearance. I could put all four nuts in the mill vise removing 1/32" from each of three flats. It would take 3 passes and then the other three flats the end mill would need to be lowered another 1/32" for the remaining 3 flats. Would not take much time at all. More fun than buying them too!

[Mart]

I've made special nuts for that application. A lathe is your friend.

[WRA]

What is the context, was this same torque tube, or new build etc.

Looks like a 33/34. I know there is a difference in length between the V8 and 4cylinder. I went through this few years ago trying to connect a 4 cylinder torque tube and shaft to a v8.

It looked just like that, too short.

[Henry Ford IV]

This is a 35 Ford 2 door sedan. The prior owner was doing a complete restoration. He took it off the frame, took the engine and running gear out, then started to build it up. He got the body on frame in primer with the front end off, engine in but intake not attached. He passed away at that point in about 2008. I just bought the car in October.

[The Art Doctor]

Then the correct nuts may be somewhere in one of the boxes you purchased or lost to time. I would take it apart first to see if they had the rubber done/replaced or not and if the bolts are the correct ones. It is difficult to put a car back together that you did not take apart. Inspect all prior work carefully this may be an indication of their lack of attention to details or a simple mix up of fasteners.

[Henry Ford IV]

It will probably take a while but I am going to take it apart and see what I have. Now that the Ford Barn has provided so much good information, I know exactly what to look for.

[Mart]

If it helps at all I modified some nuts for this application. I took some 10mm flanged nuts and ran a 7/16 UNF tap through. I might have turned the flange down a little too. These 10mm flange nuts use a 15 mm hex, which is 1mm smaller than even the reduced hex on the 5/8" hex nuts. They worked well and a 15mm socket fitted well in the space available.15mm is approx 19/32"

[34fordy]

Originally Posted by Mart

If it helps at all I modified some nuts for this application. I took some 10mm flanged nuts and ran a 7/16 UNF tap through. I might have turned the flange down a little too. These 10mm flange nuts use a 15 mm hex, which is 1mm smaller than even the reduced hex on the 5/8" hex nuts. They worked well and a 15mm socket fitted well in the space available.15mm is approx 19/32"

Oh no Mart!! Using a METRIC socket on a Ford? Shame on you! LOL I suppose you even drive on the wrong side of the road over there!

[tubman]

Originally Posted by 34fordy

Oh no Mart!! Using a METRIC socket on a Ford? Shame on you! LOL I suppose you even drive on the wrong side of the road over there!

Yeah, he should at least use a Whitworth socket.