Awwe Crap!

[Mart]

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

Also, with the hub installed on a good axle, does the hub put a little tension on the axle to keep the gear end of the axle up snug against the spider carrier? I hope the answer is yes...if not, I may have more problems inside.

No. The hub does not contact the axle in a way that would limit end float. In my experience, you can have some end float and that is ok. The end float is determined in the clearances in the diff. My 40 had hardly any on one side and quite a lot on the other. I don't want to quote figures because I don't know what is acceptable. I'm just offering the opinion that some amount of end play is perfectly acceptable.

The axle turning may make a noise because it does not have an outer bearing to stop it rubbing on the seal/casing. There is a seal in the axle a couple of inches in, and the shaft will be resting on it.

Mart.

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by Mart

The axle turning may make a noise because it does not have an outer bearing to stop it rubbing on the seal/casing. There is a seal in the axle a couple of inches in, and the shaft will be resting on it.

Mart.

I hadn't thought of that...I'll keep my fingers crossed!

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Mart

...The axle turning may make a noise because it does not have an outer bearing to stop it rubbing on the seal/casing. There is a seal in the axle a couple of inches in, and the shaft will be resting on it.

Mart.

Because the hub bearing is relieved of supporting the broken axle, I would think the outer seal has taken a beating from the diagnosis process of going through the gears with engine running. Whether that is the case or not, it's best to replace that seal, as not doing so may have your brake shoes floating in oil.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

In your experience, how hard of a time do you think I'll have in finding an axle? Are there some around or will this be like searching for a Unicorn?

I'd start by contacting the Early Ford Store in San Dimas at the link below......they have STUFF! If that doesn't work, there are several other sources available from 'Barn sources. DD

http://earlyfordstore.com/

[Capt Kirk]

38V8 I don't know how to quote just one sentence of a previous post but I think you'll know what part of your post I'm taking about.

I know that nothing is supposed to rotate behind the transmission when it's in neutral but I seem to remember in my past working on a more modern vehicle that when I started it without a driveline on and in neutral, the yoke was turning due to the lube inside. I could reach up and grab the yoke and make it stop...thought something similar could be happening here. I have some jockeying around of vehicles to do when I get home in order to get the 35 where I want to work on it. I'll put a jack under it and give that axle a tug and see what happens. I'll loosen the brakes if I need to.

[ford38v8]

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Yes, that is true, but nothing was connected to that yoke. In this case, the transmission output is connected all the way through to the wheels.

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Yes, that is true, but nothing was connected to that yoke. In this case, the transmission output is connected all the way through to the wheels.

If an axle is broken isn't the driveline free to rotate?

[Capt Kirk]

I'm home and have discovered the problem. Before I share that, I feel VERY lucky that this didn't turn out WAY worse...I think my dad was looking down on me! Yep, it's a broken left side axle. I jacked the car up, tugged on the wheel and it fell off in my hand. I pushed that car around a corner from where it broke...down the street 1/2 block and a 90 degree turn into my driveway.

[Bob C]

Did you disconnect the hand brake or was it already that way.

Bob

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Did you disconnect the hand brake or was it already that way.

Bob

It was that way...I left it like that when I restored the car. I have an original e-brake handle that was intended for mechanical brakes and I have no way to go from the original handle to the cable so I put a big spring at the point of the cable V just to hold it up. I didn't want that spring to apply brake pressure so I left them disconnected in the drums. Once I figure out how to go from the e brake lever to the cable, I'll hook them back up. At least I have all the cable parts where they belong until I can get the rest figured out.

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by Capt Kirk

It was that way...I left it like that when I restored the car. I have an original e-brake handle that was intended for mechanical brakes and I have no way to go from the original handle to the cable so I put a big spring at the point of the cable V just to hold it up. I didn't want that spring to apply brake pressure so I left them disconnected in the drums. Once I figure out how to go from the e brake lever to the cable, I'll hook them back up. At least I have all the cable parts where they belong until I can get the rest figured out.

When you get ready to hook up your hand brake let me know an I can guide you through the process. I just did it on my 36 Cabriolet using the mechanical brake actuator, cutting off the lower arms that use to operate the front brakes as well as the end that attached to the brake pedal. Then used the upper attachment for the rear brake rods cutting one of the rods down for the emergency brake and it works perfect.

[Capt Kirk]

Thanks Mr. Will. I have the cross shaft, the brake lever and the slotted rod that connects the two. I saw a sketch of the original brake rod layout where the rear rods V'd through the cross member from the top center cross shaft point. I couldn't get my fat head up high enough to see that there's a clear-shot directly rearward through the cross member. The car is put to bed for winter so I'll wait till it warms up before I tackle this project. I am thinking about sending in my 97 and helmet in for a rebuild over the winter though.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Mr. Will

When you get ready to hook up your hand brake let me know an I can guide you through the process. I just did it on my 36 Cabriolet using the mechanical brake actuator, cutting off the lower arms that use to operate the front brakes as well as the end that attached to the brake pedal. Then used the upper attachment for the rear brake rods cutting one of the rods down for the emergency brake and it works perfect.

Just wondering if it was really necessary to cut those arms off the mechanical brake cross shaft mechanism to hook up your ebrake system?
When I put hydraulic brakes on a 35, I used Richard Lacy's master cylinder mounting bracket that utilized the stock cross shaft to actuate the MC using the stock brake/clutch pedal assembly. His ebrake hookup was a rather simplified cable that passed through the center of X member in a section of steel tubing, and connected the ebrake lever directly to the ebrake cable that loops around to both rear backing plates, and used the same '39 curved sheet metal bracket like you show in your 3rd picture. Basically a simplified system that utilized stock components requiring no modificatons.

[Mr. Will]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

Just wondering if it was really necessary to cut those arms off the mechanical brake cross shaft mechanism to hook up your ebrake system?
When I put hydraulic brakes on a 35, I used Richard Lacy's master cylinder mounting bracket that utilized the stock cross shaft to actuate the MC using the stock brake/clutch pedal assembly. His ebrake hookup was a rather simplified cable that passed through the center of X member in a section of steel tubing, and connected the ebrake lever directly to the ebrake cable that loops around to both rear backing plates, and used the same '39 curved sheet metal bracket like you show in your 3rd picture. Basically a simplified system that utilized stock components requiring no modificatons.

John,
It was not necessary to cut off the arms but I thought it made a cleaner job of it so I cut them off. I was going to make a tube with a cable run through it but discovered I could cut one of the one of the old mechanical brake rods down and use it and it looks like it could have been that way from Ford.

[JSeery]

There should be very little movement in & out of the axle. If there is movement something is wrong (other than the obvious brake at the end).

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by JSeery

There should be very little movement in & out of the axle. If there is movement something is wrong (other than the obvious brake at the end).

That answered my question. The axle will move in and out the same amount whether or not the hub is on? I didn't check in and out movement but I started the car with that wheel off and it was making that noise again with the broken axle spinning. I suspect an issue with the spiders since it wasn't making that noise running down the road before the break. Guess we'll see when I get into this...ugggg.

[JSeery]

Are we talking a few thousands here or a 1/2 inch? When you say moving in and out I'm assuming you are referring to a significant amont.

[Capt Kirk]

Originally Posted by JSeery

Are we talking a few thousands here or a 1/2 inch? When you say moving in and out I'm assuming you are referring to a significant amont.

Not sure if you were asking me or Mart. I just went and checked mine. Just by pushing and pulling with my hands...right side, I can't "feel" any movement but can hear that there is an imperceptible amount of movement. On the broken axle side, with some channel locks, I feel and hear no movement but it rotates nicely.

[Capt Kirk]

Thanks Coop, I will contact them once I know what I need. Looks like I've got my weekend project lined up.

[VeryTangled]

Now I really gotta get serious about some axle retainers. Looks like you're lucky to still have a fender and likely much worse! Yikes.