My Thanks To GM

[Karl]

I have followed with interest the discussion around Thermostats and cooling . And have decided to fit thermostats to my 1934 Ford. I think every car should have thermostats and with the short driving I do I feel getting the Temp up as quick as possible is important.

I have had some problems with my car running "Hot" (as evidenced by my dual temperature gauge reading at the top of the normal range). However my wife's meat thermometer shows that when reading Hot the actual water temp is 180F at the top of the radiator which I think is fine . I am using no water and the Oil is clear of water I have tried to recalibrate the temp gauge with ice and boiling water but nothing has changed and I think I will just accept it as it is.

Since I got the car I do get some black oily water first thing on start up -
GM suggested in a previous post that this indicated a minor compression leak and Barrs leak would deal to this . He was right and since I put a can in no more water on start up and my wife is happy no stain on the drive

Thanks GM



Karl

[Floyd]

With somewhat of a background in chemistry, I typically do not believe in "magic potions". However Barr's leak is one I do believe in and use. Beside the leak stop part of it, the other reason is it has a superior anti-corrosion package which is a very important additive (and pump lube).
Use it for sure even if you do not have a leak.
Just an opinion

[Lawrie]

would the bars leaks not clog up the cores in the rad.
Lawrie

[petehoovie]

There are several different 'Bar's Leak' formulas. Which one did G.M. recommend?

[40cpe]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

would the bars leaks not clog up the cores in the rad.
Lawrie

That is my concern, too. I had a Griffin radiator in my '40 that was seeping just before I was to take 1500 mile trip. I called Griffin and they recommended Bars Leak. It was an aluminum radiator so I bought the aluminum flake type of bars leak. It stopped the leak, but the radiator never cooled as well as before. After the Bars leak the engine fan ran all time at slow speeds where it would cycle on and off before the treatment. Maybe I shouldn't have used the flake type and maybe the pellet type would have been better, I'll never know.

[tubman]

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Holy Shit! I clicked on this thread because I thought someone on the "Ford Barn" was thanking General Motors!

[Ian NZ]

I fitted a 3 pound Skip Haney valve onto the overflow tube on the radiator of my 32 I then I installed Bars leaks pellet type which is the only one available here into the radiator, the Bars leaks blocked the 3 pound valve and pressurized the radiator which blew a small hole in the top tank. I would not install this type of Bars leak into my V8 Radiators again. Now I just install the 'Red line' water wetter and the 'Gunk' Anti-Rust & Water Pump Lube which takes the place of the Bars Leaks pump lube. into the radiator water.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Ian NZ

I fitted a 3 pound Skip Haney valve onto the overflow tube on the radiator of my 32 I then I installed Bars leaks pellet type which is the only one available here into the radiator, the Bars leaks blocked the 3 pound valve and pressurized the radiator which blew a small hole in the top tank. I would not install this type of Bars leak into my V8 Radiators again. Now I just install the 'Red line' water wetter and the 'Gunk' Anti-Rust & Water Pump Lube which takes the place of the Bars Leaks pump lube. into the radiator water.

Originally Posted by 40cpe

That is my concern, too. I had a Griffin radiator in my '40 that was seeping just before I was to take 1500 mile trip. I called Griffin and they recommended Bars Leak. It was an aluminum radiator so I bought the aluminum flake type of bars leak. It stopped the leak, but the radiator never cooled as well as before. After the Bars leak the engine fan ran all time at slow speeds where it would cycle on and off before the treatment. Maybe I shouldn't have used the flake type and maybe the pellet type would have been better, I'll never know.

Originally Posted by Lawrie

would the bars leaks not clog up the cores in the rad.
Lawrie

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If it don't leak, don't put in stop leak .

[Karl]

Originally Posted by Ian NZ

I fitted a 3 pound Skip Haney valve onto the overflow tube on the radiator of my 32 I then I installed Bars leaks pellet type which is the only one available here into the radiator, the Bars leaks blocked the 3 pound valve and pressurized the radiator which blew a small hole in the top tank. I would not install this type of Bars leak into my V8 Radiators again. Now I just install the 'Red line' water wetter and the 'Gunk' Anti-Rust & Water Pump Lube which takes the place of the Bars Leaks pump lube. into the radiator water.

Ian I used the same stuff but my valve looks ok and I have checked it and flushed it

Originally Posted by Old Henry

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If it don't leak, don't put in stop leak .

Well the point is Henry I think it might be leaking . Round town the coolant stays pretty much level but after a long run at 50 mph I do loose some coolant perhaps 100 mls. Can't see any leaks and a "sniff test" suggests no exhaust fumes in the coolant. It seems to run ok and is not overheating . There is some water out the exhaust at start up but not much and I suspect just combustion product. For completeness I will do a compresson check. My plan is just to run it and see if the water finds its own level -Karl

[Ian NZ]

Karl, - I now have a one litre plastic bottle with a plastic hose connection which when I remove the radiator cap I slip the hose over the overflow pipe squeeze the bottle until water comes out the overflow pipe. I do this now and again just to check that the valve is clear.

[Vics Stuff]

For those of with small leaks , I would recomend liquid sodium slilcate. (AKA Water Glass ) That is what is in all new cars antifreez. This helps to seal small leaks and have seen it used in older vehicle applications with success.
Vic

Originally Posted by Ian NZ

Karl, - I now have a one litre plastic bottle with a plastic hose connection which when I remove the radiator cap I slip the hose over the overflow pipe squeeze the bottle until water comes out the overflow pipe. I do this now and again just to check that the valve is clear.

[35fordtn]

Sodium Silicate has always scared me. When I worked at a New car dealership about 7 years ago, and the government had the "cash for clunkers" incentive going we had to disable the trade in's under this policy. The way we disabled the cars, was to pour sodium silicate into the engine oil. Hop in the car and hold the throttle to the floor. After about 90 seconds the engine would lock up or throw a rod. It was interesting to see which engines held up the longest. The Ford inline 6 in a F-150 set the record. That stuff when mixed into the crankcase in any large proportion is instant death to a engine.

[AnthonyG]

The water your seeing on start up could simply be condensation on start from cold exhaust pipe, cold, muffler and the hot exhaust hitting it. Lot's of cars have a bit of water dripping from tail pipe on start up. Older engine, greasy soot in pipe and muffler would explain the discolored water. I don't like Bars Leak pellets, I remember ruining cooling systems and even clogging engine cooling veins with the stuff as a kid. Learned quickly if you indeed have a leak find it and fix it. I don't thing you have a leak. While I like "Skip Haney valve" I have had great success with a recovery tank with the overflow plumbed into it. i know the old radiators are not pressurized but it works just fine. A bit of coolant overflows into it and on cooling it sucks back into the radiator. Went the whole season without adding coolant where previously seemed to constantly having to add.

[Karl]

Originally Posted by AnthonyG

The water your seeing on start up could simply be condensation on start from cold exhaust pipe, cold, muffler and the hot exhaust hitting it. Lot's of cars have a bit of water dripping from tail pipe on start up. Older engine, greasy soot in pipe and muffler would explain the discolored water. I don't like Bars Leak pellets, I remember ruining cooling systems and even clogging engine cooling veins with the stuff as a kid. Learned quickly if you indeed have a leak find it and fix it. I don't thing you have a leak. While I like "Skip Haney valve" I have had great success with a recovery tank with the overflow plumbed into it. i know the old radiators are not pressurized but it works just fine. A bit of coolant overflows into it and on cooling it sucks back into the radiator. Went the whole season without adding coolant where previously seemed to constantly having to add.

Thanks it would appear that I was overfilling the radiator. It has now levelled out at just below the baffle level . The coolant is just poking through the centre hole in the baffle and remains at this level with lots of driving over the last 24 hours -Karl