'35 flathead timing

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Sounds like the drivers side set of points are set to wide. Walt

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by RobR'35

To start. I took dist. off to look at points.At this point the engine ran fine.Meaning way better then now.Didnt miss,good acceleration.
At this point the adjustment plate on the side of the dist. was real near center.
the points looked pitted so changed them to NOS ford used ones I had.
Also at this point Im very new to the flat head V8. this is my first one.So Im in the very beginning of learning about there workings.
After points changed and adjusted,dist.replaced it had to advance the adj. plate all the way adv. in order for it to run smooth or close to smooth.
This is the beginning of where the problem lies.

This all would have been good to know from the beginning of post. Which type of distributor did you have on the engine to begin with? Early helmet type or later crab? All point sets are not made equally. The used NOS points could have had weak springs, or have been tight on pivot posts, not gapped correctly, or some other problem(s). Also, as someone else mentioned, Bubbas rebuild could have a problem, or that new coil could be an issue. Is it possible to go back to ground zero by installing everything you had when the engine ran good?

[Terry,OH]

Make sure your spark plug wires are on the correct spark plugs, and fully plugged it to the cap. 1-4 RH, 5-8 LH front to rear. Typically the crab timing plate is set close to the center. If you have a spare distributor rotor change it out. Check the continuity of the distributor cap, using an ohmmeter from the inside terminal to the plug terminal as well as the coil terminal (want 0 ohms). also check spark plug wire continuity (solid wires with 0 ohms each) Check some of the simple things before removing a timing cover again.

[scooder]

Originally Posted by Hoop

"Sounds like the drivers side set of points are set to wide. Walt"

On the right track. If the points are too wide, do they start to ramp up earlier or later?

(Gee, now I'm "someone else" ... great.)

If the gap is set to wide, they open earlier or "ramp up" earlier.
Martin.

[scooder]

When you said the timing marks lined up. Did you check the marks that alighn the press on cam gear to the cam?
I ask as it can turn or be pressed on wrong, and the distributor that was initially fitted could have had the points adjusted to hide this fact. So the adjustment plate sits where it's supposed to and it runs ok. I have seen this once a good few years ago, was done to sell the car and hide a mistake or issue.
Martin.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I agree with Hoop that the thread is pretty confusing...
My standard offer is send the distributor to me and i will check ( readjust if needed) and return the same day i recieve it.
Never know with these things but the very least we can check the distributor for you.
Send them both if ya want and we can adjust them both....
You seem very convinced its spark timing and it very well may be. Gut feelings are more correct than ever .......

[RobR'35]

I feel confident the dist. u sent back to me Bubba is correct. Im sure Im missing something. Ill go through all these tips and ideas and get back.
Thanks everyone!

[Willit Stop]

It wouldn't hurt anything to poke a feeler gauge in there. Not to adjust but rather to find out roughly what the gaps are.I'm sure you know this but they do not open and close at the same time and should be measured independently.

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Just for the sake of discussion here :

The drivers side point set controls actual engine timing ......incorrect gap will retard / advance the ignition timing.
The passenger set control ( or adds to the total dwell) or coil build up time.
Drivers side is set at 22 1/2 degrees of dwell for correct case to engine timing....camshaft to slot to engine cover etc...
Passenger set is then set at 36 degrees total with both sets running.
More than likely 3 out of every 10 sets require bending to get proper alignment of contacts. I think the equipment they are made or bent on is finally getting kinda worn...

[scooder]

Originally Posted by Hoop

Let Rob do one thing at a time.

Hoop, I wasn't asking him to do anything extra, just clarifying what he had checked. And a possible reason for the discrepancies.
Martin.

[RobR'35]

Ok since ive got the grill off and radiator so I could check all these things.
Scooder,I pulled the timing cover off one more time. I wanted to make sure of cam to gear fit since I had most of the front of the car off already.
The cam gear mark to crank gear mark line up.Now there also is a continuation of the cam mark to the center of the cam gear that lines up with the center pressed hub of the cam.Theres a mark on the pressed steel hub of the cam.These also line up.
Are these the marks ur asking about?

[48 coupe]

Is it possible it is off one plug wire behind in the dist.????????????.

[RobR'35]

Ive also checked continuity on the cap. That all checks out good.As for the plug wires,they look to be the carbon type. Im not sure how to check those.
Im going to get to ur sugestions soon Hoop.
The old coil has 2 ohms resistance.The new coil has 2.5 ohms resistance.The wire leading to the coil was going through the original type ballast on the firewall. Ive eliminated the ballast altogether.Ill use the old coil that I started with.

[RobR'35]

Im not sure whats happened here?
I had a lot of great suggestions from Hoop on here.I was systematically going through everyones and his have all disappeared.

[scooder]

I just went to check the gear to cam marking on a press on type cam, had a good rummage, can't find one, must be buried deeper than I thunk. Did find some long nose bolt on gear type cams I didn't remember I had though.
I'll have a look for a good pic showing the marks I'm talking about, they van be almost a scratch mark on some.
But yours does sound ok to me.
Your right, a bunch of posts has vanished! Hoops included. Where they gone?
Martin.
ps take bubba up on his offer to confirm what's going on. Else you can be chasing your tail.

[RobR'35]

I looked close and took pics of the timing gears. I wanted to eliminate the gear situation before I went further. The cam gear is a bolt on style.I wish I knew the name brand/lift type just to know.
Ive no clue yet how to post pics.

[scooder]

If the cam gear is bolt on, it will only bolt on in the right place, the bolt hole won't line up any other way. Being a 35 I assumed a press on gear. You know what they say about assumption. Is it an aluminium gear on the cam?
I think you've eliminated that issue.
Can you back step to the point it ran best?
I really think you should send it to bubba if only for confirmation.
Martin.

[RobR'35]

The gear on the cam is the fiber type.

[Binx]

Originally Posted by RobR'35

Ive also checked continuity on the cap.

The question was asked before but not answered. What type of distributor do you have? Helmet? Crab? Postwar?

Lonnie

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by RobR'35

I looked close and took pics of the timing gears. I wanted to eliminate the gear situation before I went further. The cam gear is a bolt on style.I wish I knew the name brand/lift type just to know.
Ive no clue yet how to post pics.

Rob, I will pm you my email address so you can email your pictures to me. Then I could post them here for you. It would be a big help to see some pictures of the front and sides of the engine, the camshaft and crankshaft timing gears with timing marks aligned, the old original distributor, your rebuilt distributor, old and new coils, timing gear cover, distributor adaptor(s) (plates/buttons) if any are used, plus any other pictures that you feel might be relevant for us to see.
It is unfortunate that someone whom you felt comfortable with, as far as help/guidance on this problem, has bailed out on you. Maybe you could work with him directly, on an individual basis, by PM or email.
Lets all keep plugging away together on this until we get your problem resolved..