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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9
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Hi, I'm new to the forum. I read a little bit of it before deciding to post. I have an old touring car that needs a lot of work done on it. It needs a top and bows. I've got some old stuff to put on it but it's not very good. Are there very many other people in Minnesota with Model Ts?
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Two Rivers, Wi.
Posts: 1,406
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Welcome aboard! MINTYSODA is a Model T hotspot! Just look at the ebay listings. Get some pics and a better description posted here for some better feedback. ws
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" Warning; the following contains content that the anal retentive may find offensive - please skip on to the next posting!" |
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#3 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9
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Thanks for getting back to me yacht, I like your bumblebee racecar. Is that a Model A? Are those the right size wheels on it?
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 252
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Slickwilly, Welcome to the Fordbarn (T). I live way south in Texas, but yes, there are a lot of T people in Minnesota. There are three local clubs (MTFCA) and two (MTFCI) clubs located in Minnesota. They both have web sites and show the locations of the local clubs and contacts.
There are lots of parts suppliers of T parts and the above National web sites have links to them. Also there are swap meets that sell used parts. And last, I think that is a T speedster, but on speedsters, there is no standard list of parts that must be used, anything goes as the Ford factory did not make a speedster as such. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Two Rivers, Wi.
Posts: 1,406
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Wow, lotsa Willies showin' up here! The bumble bee car is called the Pollinator Special, after a nickname I incurred in high school with all the fertile young lasses. Draw yer own conclusions.
It started out as a rolling 1919-1925-1926 chassis. I Z lowered the frame in the back 5" and mounted an auxilliary front crossmember lowering the front 5" as well. The steering column is lowered and has a homemade body with 21" Model T wire wheels. The motor is a fresh rebuild with aluminum pistons only. The front axle is stock with 26-7 lowered spindles, but I changed the wishbone to a pair of "T" bones (like old school "A" bones) due to the extended front crossmember. All the custom front end stuff was fabbed by MOI. The best part is its all a 12 volt system with a good strong Magneto. Starter, alternator, and sealed beam headlamps. Ive probably got a walloping $2000 invested in this one and that includes a rebuilt trans and differential. The wheels and tires not included. Those were a trade. The red chassis is how I got it and the finished product (semi finished) can be seen in the thred here called "All 12 volts all the time" with lotsa pics. ws ![]() ![]() ![]()
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" Warning; the following contains content that the anal retentive may find offensive - please skip on to the next posting!" |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Toms River N.J.
Posts: 515
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 252
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Charlie B
Disturbing may not be saying it strong enough. I think a loose fitting shirt would do wonders for slickwilly I did not use my personal photo on purpose, yea I am not real purty |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: St Joseph,MN
Posts: 278
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Slickwilly,
Welcome to the wonderful world of Model T's. We are in Minnesota, St Joseph to be exact, which is just West of St Cloud. I belong to two clubs in the state the T-Totalers and the Great Northern Model T Club. Depending on where you live, I can steer you into the right club for you. I am Vice-President for the T-Totalers and have held every office in the Great Northern, currently I am the secretary, which includes having me write the monthly newsletter. If you email me at [email protected] I can send you the March one in a day or so when I have it done. I also stock new parts and have lots of used parts. We also rebuild coils, carbs, front and rear axles, engines/trans, and pretty much anything Model T. We have many period tools that are not to common and expensive. Drop me a note or give me call and we can chat. Welcome, Andy Loso
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'OSO HANDY RESTORATIONS Specializing in Model T Fords 320-293-1953 Last edited by Farmallcub49; 03-01-2013 at 11:51 AM. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 252
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Farmallcub49,
I think you were trying to contact "Slickwilly", not Willie. That Willy lives in your home state, I do not. |
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#10 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9
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I'm having a hard time getting on some time. Is this forum always tempermental? I took my picture off. I hope it didn't offend people real bad. I know it gets to be touchy but I don't know what kind of oil to put in my car when I change it. And can someone please tell me where the oil filter is?
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: South pacific island
Posts: 1,724
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Any engine oil with a rating between 10 - 40 should be fine. If i am thinking the same engine as mine there is no filter or someone could have added one under a plate next to the pedals, my filter is there but it is merely a screen that catches chunky stuff.
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<Link> This is how we roll<Link> "I'm Convinced that no one really reads posts anymore; they just fabricate what they think the post says then ramble on about red herrings."--Bob Outcasts rules of old cars #1 Fun is imperative, mainstream is overrated #2 If they think it is impossible, prove them wrong #3 If the science says it impossible you are not being creative enough. #4 No shame in recreating something you never had #5 If it were not for the law & physics you would be unstoppable |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: St Joseph,MN
Posts: 278
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The Model T never had a filter. Most people put a screen under the transmission cover. If you have an engine that hasn't been rebuilt or don't know the engine's history put in 30w non-detergent. If you put in detergent oil, it will loosen up all the gunk from over the years and give you nothing put trouble. If it has a fresh rebuild, generally 10w30 detergent is fine. If you get a bug up your butt and put in synthetic (not recommended) make sure it doesn't have graphite in it because the graphite will eventually dynamite the magneto.
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'OSO HANDY RESTORATIONS Specializing in Model T Fords 320-293-1953 |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 252
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Slickwilly
On weekends, my computer seems slow on everything including the Fordbarn. Maybe to many people on the computer on weekends?? The Fordbarn requires no daily log in unlike the MTFCA and MTFCI forums that require some type of sign in and the Fordbarn always recognizes me without that daily sign in. PS I was just teasing you about your picture after Charlie B opened that can of worms on pictures. |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brooklin, Ontario
Posts: 706
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Slickwilly;
Listen to Farmallcub on the oil! Non-detergent 30 is the only safe way to go in an old or unknown engine. Changing it often is cheap insurance. No additives, no synthetic. Do not worry about the picture, it would clear things up if you added a caption where the DOLL answers the obvious question with "Dunno, it all started with a wart on my behind!"
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Jack Innes, Brooklin, Ontario |
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