gaksets/cracks oh my..in my 312

[1930artdeco]

OK, I sent my 57 wagon to the shop to get running and they did!!!!!!!! It is now timed, tuned and dwelled and idles. However, he did find some glaring issues with the intake and carb. Apparently there are some major leaks in the intake gaskets and carb gaskets. So I have some questions:

1) He said to check for cracks in the intake. Is there a good way for a DIY mechanic to do that or should I have it fluxed? He also told me to run a hose through the crossover to make sure there are no cracks inside the manifold.

2) He also stated that the gaskets were either wrong, wrong orientation or something as it was apparently sucking a lot of smoke from his machine. I put them on correctly as far as I can tell. They are fel pro gaskets, is there a better gasket for this spot?

3) Apparently there is a leak at the carb base as well. I am not running a spacer so I put just one gasket there. Is there supposed to be more?

4) Sort of related, but I need the carb throttle and kickdown springs, where can I get them? Is there a specific spring rate?

Thanks,

Mike

[miker98038]

If it’s running nice, i don’t understand “ major leaks” but that’s an aside. If the block has been decked and the heads milled, the intake may not be seating properly between the heads. I’ve seen Ted Eaton post some info on how much and what angle to mill the intake for those circumstances.

Sometimes an aluminum intake will deform enough to make that up, but a stock cast iron probably not. It’s visible sitting in place with no gaskets.

Early carbs (or replacement carbs) sometimes don’t line up quite right with the usual late model gaskets. So it might be a simple as just the gasket on the carb/maniflod. That’s easier to check. Given hood clearance, a phenolic carb spacer helps with fuel percolation, but check both gaskets on that too.

[1930artdeco]

He did say to use a light under or on top to see if the angles are wrong or if I can see light at all. I think the min. Is to pull the manifold, sand the ports and carb base and recheck. Hopefully there are no internal/external cracks. After I regasket then I will use starter fluid to check for any leaks correct?

He has it set right now to run on a high idle with a rich carb setting to counter the leaks. Hopefully, I can DRIVE her into the garage on Fri/sat. This be the first time she has moved under her own power in 40+ years!

[Gene F]

Springs from Concourse Parts, or Dennis Carpenter Fords.

Just pull the manifold and carb. Clean everything and put on new gaskets. Sure take a look for any issues, but don't overthink it. If you can have the intake magnafluxed great. Carb gaskets were covered by Mike (above). If you add a spacer remember: 1) you need two gaskets, 2) your spacer will mitigate your heat crossover to some extent - not that this is a bad thing. On my Y-block I capped them on purpose. From there you carb screws should not need turned more than 1/4 turn in either direction. He got you in the ballpark already.

Oh, and on a Y-block you need not pull the distributor if you are careful. An afternoon in the garage, and you are all set.

[Gene F]

I bet this a 4-barrell?

[1930artdeco]

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Yes. Autolite 4100. I get home today and will drive in tonight. Maybe I can. Heck on things this weekend. Thanks for the help. I will post a video here when I get her running.

Mike

[miker98038]

I’ve always restricted my exhaust crossovers or blocked them completely, and I’m not having any drivability problems even in cold weather in Kent. So I wouldn’t worry about that in Lynden either, unless you want to drive in the snow. Just let it warm up a bit first, which I usually do anyway.

I don’t think I’ve ever heard of a cracked cast iron factory manifold. Corroded water passages, rusted out hot air tubes (in the crossover), stripped bolts holes, yes. But not a cracked manifold. I’d look real close at the fit to the heads, which isn’t going to be easy with the engine in the car. I’d use one of my grandchildren, small, flexible, and good eyesight.

[1930artdeco]

Got her back in the garage! She drove for the first time in 45 yrs.!!!!!!! It was a rough drive but got her done!

Mike

[Flathead Fever]

I was a mechanic for 30-years. I use a propane bottle to check for vacuum leaks. Carb spray works but it dissolves paint. Run the propane bottle around the gaskets but also remove the oil fill cap and put some propane inside the block. This checks for a leaking intake gasket in the inside of the engine. It's kind of rare but every once in a while, it happens. It may just need a carb overhaul. If it set for all those years, the carbs gaskets maybe leaking. They should be replaced anyway if they are that old.

[1930artdeco]

I know what a propane bottle is but just want to make sure I understand you. Do you mean get one of the benzo matic/ camping bottles and hook a hose to it? I just have not done this before, heard about though.

[miker98038]

I use the torch with a small tip, just don’t light it first. I hear flathead, that’s a good idea, but I don’t think it’s much of a problem on a y block with the separate valley cover. (There’s a couple times I wished I knew that on a sbc though).

You’ve done a ton of work on the car, glad to hear it’s moving again. Nice job.

[1930artdeco]

Ok, got it. Thought that is what people were talking about but just wanted to make sure.

[1930artdeco]

Here is a link to her running. She is set to a high idle and I did use my propane torch to find a few leaks-no it was not lit. I need stronger springs which I will be hunting for this week. I will also pull the car/manifold and clean the faces.

[1930artdeco]

If that doesn’t work try this: tech is not
My friend at times.

https://youtube.com/shorts/4FBwGP0xP...U3i5kYGuthe2VJ