6 Volt Turn Signals

[Brewsterbuff]

Sorry guys! I am an old timer with old ideas. Installing turn signals on my 1929 Roadster Pickup that I bought in 1955. The local Model A tech specialists complained about NO TURN SIGNALS so I decided to make them happy. Too stubborn to use LED, and fight with 12 volt conversions, so I searched for the same lights that I used on my 1929 Phaeton. Ordered 2 amber and 2 red, 12 volt, incandescent, double bulb, slim style lights (I will switch the bulbs to 6 volt). I will install the same as I did on the Phaeton several years ago. Front lights between the bumper bars, rear mounted to the bed side rails in holes that are already there after making a special bracket.Total package will be about $75.00 Pictures when I get everything to do the job. Picture taken in about 1967.

[Bruce of MN]

What will you use for a switch?

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Brewsterbuff

Sorry guys! I am an old timer with old ideas. Installing turn signals on my 1929 Roadster Pickup that I bought in 1955. The local Model A tech specialists complained about NO TURN SIGNALS so I decided to make them happy. Too stubborn to use LED, and fight with 12 volt conversions, so I searched for the same lights that I used on my 1929 Phaeton. Ordered 2 amber and 2 red, 12 volt, incandescent, double bulb, slim style lights (I will switch the bulbs to 6 volt). I will install the same as I did on the Phaeton several years ago. Front lights between the bumper bars, rear mounted to the bed side rails in holes that are already there after making a special bracket.Total package will be about $75.00 Pictures when I get everything to do the job. Picture taken in about 1967.

Good for you. Years ago I added turn signals for safety to my '30 Town Sedan.

I didn't like the looks of the "Store Bought" lights or that thing hanging on the steering column. So I collected parts and made my own. My turn signals are basically hidden... until I turn them on of course. Unlike you, I did use LEDs because they are so much brighter than incandescents.

Switch

[katy]

Nice looking truck

[Brewsterbuff]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

What will you use for a switch?

I used a plastic toggle switch from Auto-Zone on the phaeton. Worked great.


Bought one yesterday from Advance ($6.00) on-off-on. Be sure to wire the switch backward so that left is left and right is right. It is not a lighted switch because they all seem to be 12 volt. I did put in a bright indicator light and a 10 amp fuse link. I ran all wiring behind the gas tank and all the electrical stuff is behind the drivers kick panel. When the lights arrive I will lay out all of the pieces and get a picture. Today I made the panel for the toggle and the indicator light. Tomorrow brackets for the rear lights. Wiring will be the worst part, feeding and fastening everything underneath!

[Brewsterbuff]

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Originally Posted by katy

Nice looking truck

Katy, If you were referring to my truck as nice looking THANK YOU! Most people think I am crazy because it has OVERWHELMING PATINA. In 1957 that truck took me from Philadelphia, PA to Dearborn for the National MARC meet. Many of the regional meets were around 100 miles from my home and I made it to almost every one, also 2 trips from Phila. to Cornell University to visit a friend there who also had a Roadster Pickup with OVERWHELMING PATINA (AND BULLET HOLES). I get the most fun when people can't get over how I drive such an 'ugly' truck. We now have 7 Original-Unrestored Model A's and Flatheads including the Brewsters in my Avitar.


More T. S. pics to follow!

[Brewsterbuff]

Originally Posted by katy

Nice looking truck

Katy, If you were referring to my truck as nice looking THANK YOU! Most people think I am crazy because it has OVERWHELMING PATINA. In 1957 that truck took me from Philadelphia, PA to Dearborn for the National MARC meet. Many of the regional meets were around 100 miles from my home and I made it to almost every one, also 2 trips from Phila. to Cornell University to visit a friend there who also had a Roadster Pickup with OVERWHELMING PATINA (AND BULLET HOLES). I get the most fun when people can't get over how I drive such an 'ugly' truck. We now have 7 Original-Unrestored Model A's and Flatheads including the Brewsters in my Avitar.


More T. S. pics to follow!

[katy]

Originally Posted by Brewsterbuff

Katy, If you were referring to my truck as nice looking.............

I was, I think it's the way it should be, not overdone, not crappy, just right.

[headonz]

Can you post a large pic of your avatar pls

[katy]

Originally Posted by headonz

Can you post a large pic of your avatar pls

You asking of me, katy? Or?

[Brewsterbuff]

If you wanted my avatar, here it is

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by Brewsterbuff

If you wanted my avatar, here it is

What make are those cars?

[HDowse]

Brewesters. Beautiful heart shaped grills.

[Brewsterbuff]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

What make are those cars?

1934 Brewster. Brewster bought 135 chassis, '34 Ford and stretched the chassis 15 inches, then mounted their special Brewster bodies.


You can check them out at < BrewsterCars.com >

[Brewsterbuff]

All the parts are here! Pictures with numbers. Another update when they are installed and working (I hope)!

[eagle]

I used an old turn signal switch I bought at a swap meet. Paid $5 for a box of 5 or 6. Here is a picture of the one I used, WOW! Someone wants a pretty penny for theirs! https://www.ebay.com/itm/26685143817...Bk9SR4DDjLSlZQ
Mine had the original clamp which fit the steering column perfectly. Used a 6 volt flasher and a beeper off of ebay so I won't forget it on. Works flawlessly. Looks great too. The new repros are shiny chrome...ugly.

[Brewsterbuff]

I see the one on ebay was 12 volt. I know the mechanical stuff inside the switch would not be a problem but did you have to change all of the lights in the switch to 6 volt. I didn't want that big handle sticking out from the steering column. As you can see from my pics of the truck, I like things to look OLD and the way FORD built it. Really did not want turn signals but, with the 'jerks' that are on the road now, hand signals don't work.

[Bruce of MN]

Toggle switches under the dash are discreet.

[Y-Blockhead]

With my Sportlight handle, and spark advance all on that side, it didn't leave much room for a turn signal switch. So I opted for a double throw-single pole toggle switch under the dash rail (post #3).

[Brewsterbuff]

Lights are all mounted. Problem with grounds. I mounted the front lights on the spacer between the bumper bars but I think my ground problem is in the bumper end bolt area, or maybe where the bumper mounts attach to the frame. I HATE electrical work! So, I am trying to track my ground connections from the frame to the lights. Head lights and tail lights work fine so I assume that I am loosing continuity somewhere between the frame and the mounting on the bumper end bolts.
QUESTION? Is di-electric grease a conductor or an insulator? I was always under the impression it was a conductor, put it on my battery clamps and a thin coating on the light bulbs to reduce corrosion and make a better connection. Recently a battery guy said I was wrong, it was an insulator and would weaken my connections.Cold here today. ??? tomorrow.