Suggestions on flathead choice

[RGC1]

Hi. I recently picked up a 34 fordor with a partial flathead thought to be a 34 block which I think is at max bore ……..if I was to pick or build a new flathead for the car that I whatted to pretty a few serious road miles on at times for a couple years. What would you suggest ?……….go find a 49-53 era flathead ? ….or 37 era and up ……pretty open
Thanks in advance

[ford38v8]

Sounds like you aren't overly concerned with originality, and you'll want a smooth transition without grief, I'll suggest a '37 -'38 21 stud, using you heads with water pumps integral, and block off plates for the front of the block. This engine will provide insert bearings, and compatibility with your bolt-ons, and is considered the best 21 stud block Ford produced. Your bonus is a visual that most guys will not detect as not original.

[RGC1]

Thanks I appreciate the response that sounds like a good idea and no I don’t think I need to be bang on original but close would be good. I am hoping with it being in good shape or fresh I can travel 600 miles kind of thing over week end type deal . I did run across I think is about a 38 or 39 24 stud, not sure how interchangeable they are with the 34 trans , do,they bolt right up ? . But like you said going with 37,38 21 stud May be a better idea. Thanks

[RGC1]

I just checked the one I found is 38 but 24 stud , but looks like it’s in nice shape

[ford38v8]

All flatheads are compatible with the 3 speed transmission. The 24 stud up to '47 pickup - '48 car will work well for you but will require oddball radiator hoses, and won't appear original at all.

[Tim Ayers]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by RGC1

I just checked the one I found is 38 but 24 stud , but looks like it’s in nice shape

Unfortunately, you can go just by the eye test. You need to make sure it isn't cracked and the cylinder walls aren't too thin by pressure testing, magnafluxing and sonic testing.

Otherwise, you may spend a lot of money, do a lot of work and wind up with an engine that is no good.

[Jack E/NJ]

> > Hi. I recently picked up a 34 fordor with a partial flathead thought to be a 34 block which I think is at max bore> >if I was to pick or build a new flathead> >



What does 'partial flathead' mean? Is it re-buildable or not?

[RGC1]

Ok thanks that helps and gives a little more insight on the trans for me.

[RGC1]

I didn’t get any heads with it and I see it’s .060 with some cylinders having a bit of a ridge, so until I tear it all down and look closer I’m not sure if it is rebuildable or not with out possibly sleeving some cylinders etc. I will check into a little closer yet

[RGC1]

Yes I agree on not just the eye test, This one appears cleaner than most and the current owner sounds like he has looked it over fairly decent…..what that means I’m not sure , but the time I get it , it is about 9 hours round trip so at that point unless it’s real obvious ….I will own it before I am able to sonic test or anything. Thanks

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by RGC1

Yes I agree on not just the eye test, This one appears cleaner than most and the current owner sounds like he has looked it over fairly decent…..what that means I’m not sure , but the time I get it , it is about 9 hours round trip so at that point unless it’s real obvious ….I will own it before I am able to sonic test or anything. Thanks

Since the heads are off, my advice is to bring stiff wire brushes, a few bottles of brake cleaner and a good flashlight.

Spray and wire brush all around the valves and pay attention to the section next to the cylinder walls. Once cleaned off, you should be able to see any major cracks.

[Planojc]

RGC1 where are you located? I have two engines.

[john in illinois]

I had an engine that looked good but had pan rail cracks leaving it worthless
It took 3 blocks to find one good one. Good luck in your quest.

John

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

I had an engine that looked good but had pan rail cracks leaving it worthless
It took 3 blocks to find one good one. Good luck in your quest.

John

You're lucky. It took 5 for me. LOL!

[tubman]

There's the problem. These things aren't growing on trees anymore. I sold my second to last good 8BA block to a guy who had been through 6 bad ones. You may be better off settling for what you can find. Any flathead Ford will work, but the 8BA series presents more problems than the earlier engines.

You will need a bellhousing/starter plate from a early '50's pickup or Mercury as well as a different clutch to match the transmission to the engine. These used to be commonly available on the aftermarket, but that source seems to have dried up. They are available on the specialty market (I have heard Speedway Motors and Centerforce have the parts). The front of the engine presents other problems. not because of the mounts, but because of the extra length created by the "post" distributor and water pumps. There are two ways to approach this problem. The first is to replace all of the front end components (including the camshaft) with those from an earlier engine. The second requires modifying the cooling fan to fit in the space provided. There are a number of ways to do this, from fitting an electric fan (practical only on vehicles converted to 12 volts) to modifying the stock components to fit. Members "Heard" and "V8Coopman" (RIP) posted a thread on this forum a few years ago on how they did it. I prefer the latter, because it does away with the front-mounted distributor.

Although it is more work to use an 8BA series engine, there are a lot of advantages. First, I find they are much easier to find and are all around a better engines. Ford engineers put a lot of effort into improving the cooling, oiling, and ignition systems. They are all at least 239 ci with the 255 ci Mercury available; (a Merc crank and an 1/8" overbore provides 276 ci which is a nice street engine). One of the unseen benefits of the later engines is that they use regular insert bearings on the connecting rods. The earlier engines used what are called "full-floating" bearings which are hard to find and expensive; in certain sizes, the seem to be completely unavailable. The later rotating assemblies can be used in the early engines with appropriate modifications.

Unless you have a full machine shop and a lot of money, it boils down to what you can find, and that usually ends up being an 8BA. If I were going to install an"incorrect" V8 in an early Ford, it would probably be an 8BA type engine. With a little extra work you stand to gain a lot and maybe even save some money. If you can find a good reasonably priced early engine, go for it, but in the end you will be better off using what you can find and afford.

[Ol' Ron]

I would use an8BA or 57 series engine The reason, These engines would be the cheapest to rebuild and all the block parts are interchangeable Everything Heads Cams and etc , this way you can use allthe best parts. However. It;s not original, just practical Gramps

[RGC1]

I’m located in Alberta Canada

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by Planojc

RGC1 where are you located? I have two engines.

Sorry been hitting the wrong button I’m located in Alberta, Canada

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by john in illinois

I had an engine that looked good but had pan rail cracks leaving it worthless
It took 3 blocks to find one good one. Good luck in your quest.

John

Ya that’s what I was a little worried about to

[RGC1]

Thanks that gives me lots to think on and figure out, I was thinking of leaning that way at one point , thinking it was the maybe the better version of the flathead series. But was not sure of what might fit and what might not.

Machine shop and a lot of money ?………haha you can have both ?………I do have the machine shop part ……little short on the lot of money……haha

Anyway I see a few out there I will have to go look at , some look better than others for just picture wise , but that might not mean much I know.

Thanks for the info very much appreciated !!!

Originally Posted by tubman

There's the problem. These things aren't growing on trees anymore. I sold my second to last good 8BA block to a guy who had been through 6 bad ones. You may be better off settling for what you can find. Any flathead Ford will work, but the 8BA series presents more problems than the earlier engines.

You will need a bellhousing/starter plate from a early '50's pickup or Mercury as well as a different clutch to match the transmission to the engine. These used to be commonly available on the aftermarket, but that source seems to have dried up. They are available on the specialty market (I have heard Speedway Motors and Centerforce have the parts). The front of the engine presents other problems. not because of the mounts, but because of the extra length created by the "post" distributor and water pumps. There are two ways to approach this problem. The first is to replace all of the front end components (including the camshaft) with those from an earlier engine. The second requires modifying the cooling fan to fit in the space provided. There are a number of ways to do this, from fitting an electric fan (practical only on vehicles converted to 12 volts) to modifying the stock components to fit. Members "Heard" and "V8Coopman" (RIP) posted a thread on this forum a few years ago on how they did it. I prefer the latter, because it does away with the front-mounted distributor.

Although it is more work to use an 8BA series engine, there are a lot of advantages. First, I find they are much easier to find and are all around a better engines. Ford engineers put a lot of effort into improving the cooling, oiling, and ignition systems. They are all at least 239 ci with the 255 ci Mercury available; (a Merc crank and an 1/8" overbore provides 276 ci which is a nice street engine). One of the unseen benefits of the later engines is that they use regular insert bearings on the connecting rods. The earlier engines used what are called "full-floating" bearings which are hard to find and expensive; in certain sizes, the seem to be completely unavailable. The later rotating assemblies can be used in the early engines with appropriate modifications.

Unless you have a full machine shop and a lot of money, it boils down to what you can find, and that usually ends up being an 8BA. If I were going to install an"incorrect" V8 in an early Ford, it would probably be an 8BA type engine. With a little extra work you stand to gain a lot and maybe even save some money. If you can find a good reasonably priced early engine, go for it, but in the end you will be better off using what you can find and afford.