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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 54
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Often, my 32 refuses to start when I use the standard 6V system, but will fire up instantly if I use 12V on the starter only.
Question 1: How can I set up a neat and simple system that will allow me to apply 12 V to the starter but have the rest of the system remain at 6V? I realize that this would require two batteries. Question 2: Any other suggestions to help me solve this starting problem? |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,132
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I ran my '51 for years with a marginal starter. It started 99.9% of the time, so I put up with it. About 5 years ago, I got sick and tired of it and installed a rebuilt from NAPA, which made the problem even worse. Back it went, and I decided to go through my stash of starters. I found one marked "Good" and installed it. Problem solved.
A few points here. First, a starter can be functional, but not operating at full efficiency. Second, as always, "new" doesn't always mean "good". Third, perseverance pays. If you haven't already tried a different starter, do so. Last edited by tubman; 09-15-2024 at 08:37 PM. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,773
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Make sure your starter is grounded properly. Remove the paint from the back face of the starter and any paint on the bell housing where it mounts. You can also run a small ground strap from a starter mount bolt to the block. A bad ground can cause the problem you describe.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lyman,ME.
Posts: 3,024
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You didn’t mention if it doesn’t restart when the engine is hot, or at ambient temp. Start by having the battery tested. Be sure you have good clean cables (rated for 6V )and connections. Same with the grounds like TJ said. Then test the starter draw both hot and cold like Tubman suggested.The 6V systems will work fine on these cars as long as everything is in good shape. I don’t think there is a need to try to “splice in” a 12V to start your car………Mark
__________________
I'm thinkin' about crankin' My ragged ol' truck up and haulin' myself into town. Billy Joe Shaver…RIP |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Granger (Northern) Indiana
Posts: 1,611
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I would solve the 6V starting issue rather than complicating the electrical system.
First thing is run the battery ground directly to the engine block, then ground the body and frame from the block. Second, use a quality 6V battery. My choice for over 20 years has been an Optima. Third, make sure the battery cables are correct size along with good quality connections and terminals. |
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: At my kitchen table in Santa Rosa, Ca
Posts: 2,989
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Quote:
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If it would have been a snake it would have bit ya! i can't spell my way out of a paper bag! |
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#7 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tinley Park Ill
Posts: 1,200
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Check out Jims Battery in Ohio. I bought a solenoid that allows you run on 6 volts and start on 12 volts.(Probably around $550,if you use two Optima Batteries) By the time you buy two batterys and the solenoid, you will wish you just converted the whole car to 12 volts. Dont ask me how I know. Dont buy the battery with the internal solenoid . When the battery dies you are S.O.L/],
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#8 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tinley Park Ill
Posts: 1,200
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Brendan is Correct Check all your Connections first. Large cables and good grounds are your goal.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 7,320
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Ask yourself why aren't other people having the problem? Now find and fix what is causing the problem on your car.
Put your general location in your profile, you can never tell how it might pay off. Charlie Stephens |
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 54
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Thanks fellas. I intend to try some or all of the great suggestions and to remain with the 6V system.
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: sydney australia
Posts: 1,156
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Kenworth ran similar system for years [12/24] and it was a pain in the backside to repair when it went wrong [DONT DO IT ] couldn't wait change them all to single voltage . check your wiring and starter pay attention to the earths and check your residuale voltage when cranking it should be at least the coil supply when running, they have a ballast built in [low voltage less spark] There have been several threads here on ballast bypass when cranking [i prefer the relay only type] remember 6v will work and it did for years it like all things has to be right and requires way heavier cableing and CCA batteries than 12v so a decent battery and cabling may well solve your problems
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 1,492
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I would get out a voltmeter and do some "voltage drop tests" on the starter circuit across each of the cables to make sure you're not losing voltage someplace. It just takes a little resistance one cable to drop the available voltage to the starter. The only way to do this is by doing a voltage drop test while the engine is cranking. A little meter would never be able to see the resistance in a "large" battery cable by just measuring the cable without the starter cranking. You have to use the actual load of the starter to show the actual voltage drop on each of the cables
I did not see any great videos on voltage drop testing, but you can start with this one and then check out some others. It's a really easy test to do and it will find a bad connection in your starter circuit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMXENKujYtc |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Yucaipa, CA
Posts: 1,492
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 454
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Flathead Fever has it right - I have done that test and resolved the problem.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,672
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Another way to find bad connections without any tools is to crank the engine with the ignition off for 30 seconds then go feel the system starting at the battery through the switch all the way to the starter, and also the ground path .
Where it is hot is bad connection. Rusty nuts and lockwashers are a common problem with voltage drops. Another common problem is pre made wires with steel terminals that are rusty inside. A lot of the store bought wires are not heavy enough gauge of wire — the whole wire will get hot with a 30 second cranking test. |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 241
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Above comments I can attest to. Starter will go on and on in a half-life. I finally found a great rebuilder works alone and doing it for many decades. No one wants to cut armatures anymore or rebuild 6v parts the correct and COMPLETE way. 6v systems require all of these critical steps. An Aerosol overhaul won’t cut it.
I’ve seen some bad stuff. Also if you aren’t using a 00 battery cables you’re not even close to the original specs and you’re not going to believe how well you’re going to start up after these things are done. R&M starter in Point Pleasant NJ +1 (732) 861-3475. They take shipments. |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Burton, Texas
Posts: 770
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I put Optima batteries in my six old Fords, two T's, two A's and two V8's. They all cranked better much better than they did with wet cell batteries.
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