Shifting transmission

[Brianfrench65]

My shift tower was rebuilt using a original rechromed shift lever, with a nice round ball. The shift forks and rails are stated to be NOS. When stopped, it goes into gear perfectly.

Going from reverse to first, works perfect. Second to third, and back to second work perfectly. I am proficient with double clutching. I am careful to go in a H pattern. I move slow, however going from first to second, or from second to first while stopped, the shift lever does not want to go into gear. I repeadyl try, up and down, and after many tries, I can get it into gear. At a stop sign, I usually go back to second, as I dislike horns blowing in back of me. If I do get it into first, following the H and double clutching, I almost coast to a stop, while going up and down, trying to get second.

Is this something that will break in?

Any suggestions?

Thank You;

[Kurt in NJ]

what about the rails--detent balls, the hole they fit into, ---the plunger between the 2 rails that works as a lock to prevent 2 gears at the same time, if that sticks in the bore you will have problems like you describe

[Brianfrench65]

The rails look pristine, and the detention balls and springs look new, and unmarked (supposedly NOS).

I was hopeful it is just too new and tight.

Thank You;

[Kurt in NJ]

it only takes 1 chip or burr in there to jam it up

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

With "CRISP" detents, sometimes you have to "slap" it into or out of gear, with an open PALM!
Bill Shifter

[Brianfrench65]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

With "CRISP" detents, sometimes you have to "slap" it into gear, with an open PALM!
Bill Shifter

Bill: I have tried that, and it does seem to work, however I am nervous about doing some damage to something.

Thank You;

[Mitch//pa]

Let's backup (no pun intended) a little with some previous history.. Back in June you had some trans issues... Maybe you can repiece the events together along with what is different now sine u rebuilt the tower compared to before ....

[Brentwood Bob]

Maybe the rivet/roll pin on the shift fork is loose.
Bob

[Brianfrench65]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

Let's backup (no pun intended) a little with some previous history.. Back in June you had some trans issues... Maybe you can repiece the events together along with what is different now sine u rebuilt the tower compared to before ....

Mitch; it's all new and crisp. The shift ball fits the forks perfectly, (original replated) and the forks are nice and new. All of the parts had dried coating (like varnish), which I soaked in lacquer thinner, and are clean and oiled.

The best I can tell, everything except the shift lever is NOS. The inside of the transmission looks pristine. I am using 600W oil, from one of the preferred suppliers.

Like Bill said, if I slap the shift lever, (first to second, or stopped second to first) it goes right in. Otherwise I have to be overly patient.

Any suggestions or words of wisdom will be appreciated.

Thank You;

[Mitch//pa]

What's new and crisp" the tower the trans or both? My question is what were your symptoms before and what are they now? What was changed ?

[Brianfrench65]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

What's new and crisp" the tower the trans or both? My question is what were your symptoms before and what are they now? What was changed ?

Mitch: the old tower was loose, and the ball was oversize. The shift lever would easily go side to side. It appears to have a crap re-pop shift lever, and a cut down spring.

Thank You;

[Big hammer]

How is your idle speed? Nice and slow? I have troubles shifting to low when it's a little high!

[Brianfrench65]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

How is your idle speed? Nice and slow? I have troubles shifting to low when it's a little high!

My idle speed is up, as I have a stall issue when it's low like is should be, and I stop. I have a Marvel to install which should idle down well.

I was not suspecting the rpm could effect the shift lever operation.

Thank You;

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Originally Posted by Brianfrench65

My idle speed is up, as I have a stall issue when it's low like is should be, and I stop. I have a Marvel to install which should idle down well.

I was not suspecting the rpm could effect the shift lever operation.

Thank You;

Yes it will!

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Brianfrench65

My idle speed is up, as I have a stall issue when it's low like is should be, and I stop. I have a Marvel to install which should idle down well.

I was not suspecting the rpm could effect the shift lever operation.

Thank You;

I think that is your trouble.

[tbirdtbird]

agree and be sure your clutch is adjusted for a full release when the pedal is at the floor.
A faster idle will make it very hard to shift.......

[CWPASADENA]

Will the shift lever easily move side to side in neutral from the reverse-first gate and the second-high gate? Either with the engine running or stopped.

With some replacement shift forks, the notch in the fork that the ball of the shifter rides in is either too small or the notch in the 2 forks are not lined up correctly. Incorrect alignment can also be caused by the detent notches in the rails or the holes for the pin is incorrectly located, either in the forks or rails. This can cause the shift lever to be difficult to move from side to side, especially with new balls, springs and shift rails, where the detents are good and tight.

When in neutral, the shift lever should easily move side to side.

My opinion,

Chris W.

[tbirdtbird]

adjust the float in your existing carb and your stall at stop issue will vanish

[Floats]

Hi Brian,
Although all the comments above are valid, I agree with Chris from Pasadena #17 above. I have the same problem.
I find the lever does not slide 100% freely from left to right, there is just a little too much friction. I do a deliberate and positive move from left to right until the lever is fully against the right stop before moving up into second. When double clutching, first move is up into neutral and all the way across to the right hand stop, second move, straight up into second.
Back to first is not normally to bad because you are standing still, but move the lever all the way left against the stop before down into first. I found it is not and S movement. Square L movements for a while, don't round the corners. It will eventually wear in.

[bobpo1]

Originally Posted by 700rpm

I think that is your trouble.

The slightly faster Idle Speed on my '30 coupe made a Big Difference when I was able to reduce the speed just a little. It really does make a difference.