Grit Blast Media Recommendation

[DD931]

My lovely wife bought me a nice big grit blast cabinet for Christmas. Having spent the last couple of days reading "...tab A into slot B..." I am now ready to give it a go. What blast medium should I use for everyday work? For example, my first task will be cleaning up a pair of rusty headlight buckets. All comments gratefully considered!! Happy New Year to all!!

[corvette8n]

I used screened playground sand for a test, seemed to work ok.

[Pete]

Aluminum oxide will cut fast. 60 grit is a good all around size.
Glass bead will probably be more economical in the long run.
It cuts slower but gives a finer finish and is less likely to cut through thin spots.

[RalphM]

Glass is cleaner, the other stuff tends to make a brown dust, this makes it hard to see where you have cleaned.

[ford38v8]

Two tips:
Keep the media bone bone BONE dry.
Always use soft media for anything with bearings 'cause sand gets everywhere and you never get it all cleaned out.

[51 MERC-CT]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Most of the time I have used #80 silica sand from the local Masonry supply company.
Most of the stuff mentioned and to be mentioned will work well for general
use but to me it was the availability and the cost.
Another factor that will effect how good it works is what you are using for an an air supply.

[CSArno]

i use aluminum oxide. its not overly dusty with the vacuum hooked to the cabinet.

[Binx]

I like the cheap playground quartzite sand on small parts. It leaves a smooth finish but will dust-up your window.

Lonnie

[Marvin/TN]

And make sure your air supply is dry. Make sure you air compressor is big enough and that will somewhat depend on what size the nozzle is. Air compressor that is too small meaning not enough CFM's will make the air hot and hot air will keep water moister in a vapor until it comes out the nozzle then it becomes water. You will need a good water separator. You also need a long air line so the air will have time to cool off before going through the water separator.

[Alaska Jim]

I prefer the glass beads for the fine finish.

[Binx]

Originally Posted by Marvin/TN

And make sure your air supply is dry. Make sure you air compressor is big enough and that will somewhat depend on what size the nozzle is. Air compressor that is too small meaning not enough CFM's will make the air hot and hot air will keep water moister in a vapor until it comes out the nozzle then it becomes water. You will need a good water separator. You also need a long air line so the air will have time to cool off before going through the water separator.

That is great advice!! I did some blasting in my driveway in subzero weather while in AK. thinking wouldn't be a problem but it kept clogging up. Thanks Marvin!!

Lonnie

[luvmyclassics]

Aluminum oxide is more aggressive than glass beads in my opinion. I have used glass beads to remove rust from a number of parts. It typically leaves a nice smooth finish on the metal. The more you use the media the more it breaks down until it is more like a sand then glass beads. Mixing together with new glass beads will give you a good blend for removing rust on parts you want to be careful not too damage the finish by being too aggressive with the cutting power.

[Vics Stuff]

Lonnie !I use ultra fine glass beads for aluminum and finish work , Ground glass works grear for heavy gauge steel , like rims and brackets that need painted. Aluminum oxide works great for sheet metal but remember to keep air pressure down when blasting sheet metal. Need to empty the cabinet from time to time and sift the media before putting it back in the cabinet.
Vic

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

A little hint. I take that plastic that you buy what you want, comes in big roll in hard where stores, and cut it the size window and I tape on the inside of the glass, It keep the glass from getting so you cain't see through it, I replace the plastic every once in awhile, haven't replaced my glass in 15 years. Walt

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

A little hint. I take that plastic that you buy what you want, comes in big roll in hard where stores, and cut it the size window and I tape on the inside of the glass, It keep the glass from getting so you cain't see through it, I replace the plastic every once in awhile, haven't replaced my glass in 15 years. Walt

Ditto on the cover the safety glass (same as in car windshields)
Been doing it for over 20 years except that I have been using .010 thick Mylar that was left over trimmings from a local plastics supply house.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

A little hint. I take that plastic that you buy what you want, comes in big roll in hard where stores, and cut it the size window and I tape on the inside of the glass, It keep the glass from getting so you cain't see through it, I replace the plastic every once in awhile, haven't replaced my glass in 15 years. Walt

Walt, Skip uses small cast iron balls as a media to clean the water pumps.
These are available in different sizes and never turn to powder. He just
adds more ago but they are expensive to buy and expensive to run.
They have two large electric motors. The phone salesman suggested we try
the cast iron balls and he has used them ever since. G.M.

[rotorwrench]

That sounds like shot peening material.

[texas webb]

The play sand from Depot/Lowes and other hardware stores does not contain silica.Always wear your protection to save lungs.

[DD931]

Walt - good advice!! And I have a nice big air compressor, so I don't expect CFM to be an issue. Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions!!

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Walt Dupont--Me.

A little hint. I take that plastic that you buy what you want, comes in big roll in hard where stores, and cut it the size window and I tape on the inside of the glass, It keep the glass from getting so you cain't see through it, I replace the plastic every once in awhile, haven't replaced my glass in 15 years. Walt

Yup...Kind of like the tear offs we use for dirt racing.
I stack 4 or 5 and leave a small tab on the corner so I can tear one off while blasting if need be.