The Ford Barn

Mike B · 03-11-2015, 04:44 PM

Reading the current thread has me thinking...took my '42 out last night, was having issues going into 2nd gear...slowed to a stop, slid into gear, and was actually in reverse.

So...pulled the cover/ect off, an notice my lower "ball" is not a ball, but a rounded "4 corner" square...as I mention in the other thread a reply was "the ball should be round".

So...can I heat mine with a torch, mig some material in, and round it up?

I have a guy coming this weekend to pick the truck up, and want to make it right before it leaves.

PS

Looking at the tower while shifting...I can see it's "feel" thing -as it is, to get it to engage 2nd gear...is my "squared off" ball, the issue?

Thanks.

I'll be able to pot pics in about an hour or so.

Terry,OH · 03-11-2015, 05:13 PM

The ball on the end should not be round it does have flat surfaces. Your better off getting another shift lever. Mac VanPelt may have one.

expavr · 03-11-2015, 06:03 PM

Attached is a drawing showing the ball on the end of a 4 speed shift arm. The sides are flat. The front and back have a smaller flat area that would contact the slotted linkage in the transmission which is attached to the shift forks. I had a similar shifting problem that was related to the orientation of the shift arm in the transmission and it was caused by a worn pin that controls the alignment of the ball where it makes contact with the slotted linkage. The pin was worn to the extent that the shift arm would rotate making the gear selection difficult. This was on a 4 speed truck transmission which may be designed and function differently than a 3 speed but it might be something to take a look at.

rotorwrench · 03-11-2015, 06:23 PM

They should be rounded at front and rear so they can apply even shifting motion through the whole range of fore & aft motion for the low reverse on the 3-speeds. They must be able to fit into the slot on the fork too. They can be somewhat flat on the sides since that only locates how far they seat into the slot on the fork. The High & 2nd gear nub is cylinder shaped like a horse pill so it can also exert the same smooth motion in fore & aft movement inside the slot of the big fork that fits into the synchro ring.

I've built them up with brazing rod and smoothed them back out when they start to get notchy and flattened out too much. They have to be able to push the fork rods into the detents for sure plus you don't want them to be too sloppy.

Mike B · 03-12-2015, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by expavr

Attached is a drawing showing the ball on the end of a 4 speed shift arm. The sides are flat. The front and back have a smaller flat area that would contact the slotted linkage in the transmission which is attached to the shift forks. I had a similar shifting problem that was related to the orientation of the shift arm in the transmission and it was caused by a worn pin that controls the alignment of the ball where it makes contact with the slotted linkage. The pin was worn to the extent that the shift arm would rotate making the gear selection difficult. This was on a 4 speed truck transmission which may be designed and function differently than a 3 speed but it might be something to take a look at.

This is what mine is doing as well (rotating) and not selecting 2nd gear.

Thanks so much for the drawing, I'll pull the arm out of the tower today and take a look.

And thanks to all else who replied!

svm99 · 03-12-2015, 10:01 AM

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I'd say the 1/4" pin which aligns the shifter is worn and is allowing the shifter to "rotate" in the top. Carefully extract the pin, cut the shank from a 1/4" drill and try again. This is a quick fix but may get you back on the road.

I would think the ball tip has less to do with this than the pin does.

Good Luck, Paul J.

Mike B · 03-12-2015, 10:14 AM

Thanks
Paul, that's what I gathered after Expavr's reply..waiting for the day to warm a bit, then will get on it.

expavr · 03-12-2015, 11:20 AM

"Carefully extract the pin, cut the shank from a 1/4" drill and try again. This is a quick fix but may get you back on the road."
I cut down a grade 8 bolt and slightly enlarged the groove on the threads where the pin engages the spring loaded cap to lock the pin in place on the shifter arm. The OEM Ford pin had a machined lip that acted as lock preventing the pin from coming out. This may not be exactly the same on the 3 speed trans.

Mike B · 03-12-2015, 02:29 PM

Well, how's this for the worst of all cases...

The slot in the shift arm is wallowed out about an 1/8th inch on either side.
The pin looks like an hour glass
The hole in the tower is a bit wallowed as well.

Are the shift arms heat treated for hardness? If so I suppose brazing is the best route, or preheat then stick the mig welder to it?

And just for clarification, the slot should look like a keyway, correct?..i/e not widened out at the top where the pin contacts?

Barn Junk · 03-12-2015, 04:07 PM

The slot should be straight on both sides. I buss a small bubble on the worn area of the slot on both sides with a mig and then carefully grind down. Doesn't seem to be originally hardened, thus the wear. The fix should last for a lot of shifts again.

expavr · 03-12-2015, 04:20 PM

" the slot should look like a keyway, correct?..i/e not widened out at the top where the pin contacts?" YES, a keyway. Food for thought. Enlarge the hole in the tower to 3/8" or whatever diameter bolt would take up the slack in the shifter and use that size bolt for the pin. If you did that you could then clean up the wallowed out area on the shift arm keyway to match whatever bolt diameter you decided to go with. Going one step further after drilling out the shift tower hole you could tap it and use an Allen set screw as the pin which would allow for some adjustment in the shift arm side to side motion. If you decide to use the Allen set screw let me know how that works out.
Les Williams

DD931 · 03-12-2015, 04:28 PM

Just as a caution - be very careful not to drop that pin into the tranny!! It's a common calamity and not always an easy recovery!!

Mike B · 03-12-2015, 09:03 PM

Well, I wound up brazing the slot...little grinder, and fine finishing with a file. I seem to be right on the arm now, (i/e my 1/4inch bolts seems to slide smoothly...and sorta snug).

Was also thinking about( as mentioned) taking the pin hole out to 5/16ths, retapping, then tuning the end down of a bolt...but my "wallowed" area, doesn't look the same on either side (shift tower)...so was concerned how far off center I could before a good fit in the slot and if I'd drilled through where it should be.

But I think I can snug my new pin in the hole, I'll see if my little Logan can knurl a grade 8 bolt...never tried...lol!..

But many, many thanks too all who have replied here..

Man, I think way back as a younger person driving old trucks and such...having a similar issue with the shifter being able to rotate...I'd always thought the tranny was toast!

The power of the 'Barn comes though!

Thanks again

Mike B · 03-13-2015, 07:48 PM

Well, many thanks to all!

Little brazing, new pin and to quote my Dad "runs like a Cadillac"

Thanks again all!

03-11-2015, 04:44 PM	#1
Mike B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oakdale,Ca Posts: 1,323	Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU-New info Reading the current thread has me thinking...took my '42 out last night, was having issues going into 2nd gear...slowed to a stop, slid into gear, and was actually in reverse. So...pulled the cover/ect off, an notice my lower "ball" is not a ball, but a rounded "4 corner" square...as I mention in the other thread a reply was "the ball should be round". So...can I heat mine with a torch, mig some material in, and round it up? I have a guy coming this weekend to pick the truck up, and want to make it right before it leaves. PS Looking at the tower while shifting...I can see it's "feel" thing -as it is, to get it to engage 2nd gear...is my "squared off" ball, the issue? Thanks. I'll be able to pot pics in about an hour or so. Last edited by Mike B; 03-12-2015 at 02:34 PM.

03-11-2015, 05:13 PM	#2
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 5,394	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU The ball on the end should not be round it does have flat surfaces. Your better off getting another shift lever. Mac VanPelt may have one.

03-11-2015, 06:23 PM	#4
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 18,006	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU They should be rounded at front and rear so they can apply even shifting motion through the whole range of fore & aft motion for the low reverse on the 3-speeds. They must be able to fit into the slot on the fork too. They can be somewhat flat on the sides since that only locates how far they seat into the slot on the fork. The High & 2nd gear nub is cylinder shaped like a horse pill so it can also exert the same smooth motion in fore & aft movement inside the slot of the big fork that fits into the synchro ring. I've built them up with brazing rod and smoothed them back out when they start to get notchy and flattened out too much. They have to be able to push the fork rods into the detents for sure plus you don't want them to be too sloppy.

03-12-2015, 10:01 AM	#6
svm99 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Garlic Country of CA Posts: 565	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I'd say the 1/4" pin which aligns the shifter is worn and is allowing the shifter to "rotate" in the top. Carefully extract the pin, cut the shank from a 1/4" drill and try again. This is a quick fix but may get you back on the road. I would think the ball tip has less to do with this than the pin does. Good Luck, Paul J.

03-12-2015, 10:14 AM	#7
Mike B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oakdale,Ca Posts: 1,323	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU Thanks Paul, that's what I gathered after Expavr's reply..waiting for the day to warm a bit, then will get on it.

03-12-2015, 11:20 AM	#8
expavr Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Hansville, WA Posts: 817	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU "Carefully extract the pin, cut the shank from a 1/4" drill and try again. This is a quick fix but may get you back on the road." I cut down a grade 8 bolt and slightly enlarged the groove on the threads where the pin engages the spring loaded cap to lock the pin in place on the shifter arm. The OEM Ford pin had a machined lip that acted as lock preventing the pin from coming out. This may not be exactly the same on the 3 speed trans.

03-12-2015, 02:29 PM	#9
Mike B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oakdale,Ca Posts: 1,323	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU Well, how's this for the worst of all cases... The slot in the shift arm is wallowed out about an 1/8th inch on either side. The pin looks like an hour glass The hole in the tower is a bit wallowed as well. Are the shift arms heat treated for hardness? If so I suppose brazing is the best route, or preheat then stick the mig welder to it? And just for clarification, the slot should look like a keyway, correct?..i/e not widened out at the top where the pin contacts?

03-12-2015, 04:07 PM	#10
Barn Junk Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: WA state Posts: 771	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU-New info The slot should be straight on both sides. I buss a small bubble on the worn area of the slot on both sides with a mig and then carefully grind down. Doesn't seem to be originally hardened, thus the wear. The fix should last for a lot of shifts again.

03-12-2015, 04:20 PM	#11
expavr Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Hansville, WA Posts: 817	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU-New info " the slot should look like a keyway, correct?..i/e not widened out at the top where the pin contacts?" YES, a keyway. Food for thought. Enlarge the hole in the tower to 3/8" or whatever diameter bolt would take up the slack in the shifter and use that size bolt for the pin. If you did that you could then clean up the wallowed out area on the shift arm keyway to match whatever bolt diameter you decided to go with. Going one step further after drilling out the shift tower hole you could tap it and use an Allen set screw as the pin which would allow for some adjustment in the shift arm side to side motion. If you decide to use the Allen set screw let me know how that works out. Les Williams

03-12-2015, 04:28 PM	#12
DD931 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PA Poconos Posts: 723	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU-New info Just as a caution - be very careful not to drop that pin into the tranny!! It's a common calamity and not always an easy recovery!!

03-12-2015, 09:03 PM	#13
Mike B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oakdale,Ca Posts: 1,323	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU-New info Well, I wound up brazing the slot...little grinder, and fine finishing with a file. I seem to be right on the arm now, (i/e my 1/4inch bolts seems to slide smoothly...and sorta snug). Was also thinking about( as mentioned) taking the pin hole out to 5/16ths, retapping, then tuning the end down of a bolt...but my "wallowed" area, doesn't look the same on either side (shift tower)...so was concerned how far off center I could before a good fit in the slot and if I'd drilled through where it should be. But I think I can snug my new pin in the hole, I'll see if my little Logan can knurl a grade 8 bolt...never tried...lol!.. But many, many thanks too all who have replied here.. Man, I think way back as a younger person driving old trucks and such...having a similar issue with the shifter being able to rotate...I'd always thought the tranny was toast! The power of the 'Barn comes though! Thanks again

03-13-2015, 07:48 PM	#14
Mike B Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oakdale,Ca Posts: 1,323	Re: Shifting tower/arm on my '42 PU-New info Well, many thanks to all! Little brazing, new pin and to quote my Dad "runs like a Cadillac" Thanks again all!