For those who have T5s

[PhoenixFear]

For those of you who have successfully put T5 transmissions in your vehicles, what is usually done about the torque rods from the rear end? I'm debating throwing a T5 in my '33 PU and trying to keep the stock rear end. Getting rid of the torque tube means I'll have to look into perhaps a 4-bar setup or something else. I'd prefer a bolt-on solution if I could but open to suggestions.
I don't know if using the '39 trans will be good for extended periods of freeway driving. I figured I could just regear the rearend but now I'm thinking that may not be a good long-term option. Thanks.

[Pete]

There are at least 2 guys modifying the back of T5's to take the torque tube. You will have to search, I don't have the info any more.
If you go with a wishbone, it has to be super stout along with the belly band it attaches to.
There are many ways to do the rear end. Just remember when you get rid of the torque tube, you are not only driving the car through the bars but they have to take the rotational torque also.

[PhoenixFear]

There seems to be a bit of talk on the T5s here, but I'm not sure where anyone mentions the rear end. Of course the vehicles may already be modified or new enough to already be open drive. I'd love to keep the torque tube there if I could as I already have enough components to keep it that way.

[Bassman/NZ]

I have an F150 trans in mine, and I have kept the torque tube set-up, but it's as much work either way. I cut the mounting plate off the rear snout, and made a duplicate from 5/16" steel plate. the steel plate mounts the torque tube, and is bolted on with the F150 (or T5) mounting plate. Be aware that a T5 will need to have an S10 housing to get the shifter forward. The long tailshaft of the F150 (T5) I cut and splined to take the early universal joint.
This is a very laborious job, and expensive, and in retrospect I would have left the long tailshaft and opted for an open drive banjo from a pickup. There's a company called Hot Rod Works, and another called Chassis Engineering who I believe both make bolt-on crossmembers for locating wishbones. The only wishbones that are really strong enough are the 35-36 ones. There is plenty of info on the HAMB for doing this.
This is my conversion, I chose the F150 trans because the shifter is in the perfect spot for me.

[PhoenixFear]

I'll look into the wishbone setup, would the '35-36 wishbones work in a '33? I'm assuming they wouldn't be too different but I can't be sure. Converting back to closed drive looks like a heck of a lot more work and time than going to open drive, but I don't quite know what to do with the stock rear radius arms.

[richard crow]

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the 39 trans can be driven cost to cost at 80 mph with no proulbem. when your in third gear it,s derect drive the advantage of the t5 is it,s fully sinkroed & has od .if you want a free way cruser the ez way is a mitchel od it,s pricey but if you sell the car you can switch back & sell the mitchel .

[36tbird]

Phoenix, I have a Ford toploader 4 speed with a Jeep shifter on it in the '36 project I'm working on. I used a Chassis Engineering center section that I modified the bottom plate to keep the ball mount rather than split the wishbone. To gain some clearance around the bottom of the trans, I got my hands on the ball mount from a Model A wishbone (pictured) and welded it in the '36 wishbone.

Also, even though I have semi-elliptical springs with open drive, I have kept the anti-chatter rods. I don't know if it matters, but I figure it can't hurt. I beef up the areas in the frame where the rods attach because they usually have stress cracks.

[Model A Bill]

I used the t-5 from a 4 wheel drive.Removed the transfer case and installed the adapter.Shortened the torque tube and radius rods.I purchased the adapter from Steve Serr out in California.Pricey but a nice piece and lets me retain the torque tube and rods to eliminate rear end mounting issues

[dullchrome]

Here ya go

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=256226

[rlhinit]

Speedway sells an adapter that enables you to retain the rear radius bars for around $230.00 It bolts to the " X " member of the frame with some modication.


Rayzor