The Ford Barn

john charlton · 08-07-2010, 05:32 PM

Still have not got the head off my hotrod swapmeet engine but have decided to put it in a frame and fire it up with the the head nuts backed off a bit. Took the pan off and found it looks like a recent (hours wise) rebuild. Pan was mostly clean but evidence of been run hot, caramalised oil in the dipper tray etc etc . The bores from the bottom side look good with still evidence of horizontal boring marking in the bores. No trace of loose babbitt anywhere. The big ends are tight with shims in place .The engine is stiff to turn with crank handle when the pistons are mid bore so I hope nothing nasty just not broke in yet. Question,how many hours running after a rebore/new pistons will the engine "rock back" on a compression stroke ??? Also the drain tube is missing from the rear main cap, the threads in the cap are semi stripped. Just wondered should I try to fudge a new drain tube in which might fall out or will it run OK without it ???

John in cool damp nearly midnight my son has just bought a nice solid 29 pickup he has always hankered after one so he is a happy bunny England.

Brentwood Bob · 08-08-2010, 12:47 AM

Can you wedge it (new drain tube)in and mig it with a spot weld. Bob

john charlton · 08-08-2010, 03:47 AM

Yes, thats what I will do,the treads are bad in the cap and even if glued I dont think that would be a long term repair.

John in damp cool windy England.

Pete · 08-08-2010, 01:45 PM

"The bores from the bottom side look good with still evidence of horizontal boring marking in the bores."

If you are describing it correctly, I would not run the engine if you expect it to last very long.
It sounds like the bores were not honed.
There should be NO visable HOROZONTAL lines.
There should be a 45 degree (approx) cross hatch visable.

Brian Philpott · 08-09-2010, 08:09 AM

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Hello from sunny Camberley
Don't be tempted to run without the tube. Crankcase pressure fluctuations will blow out through the bearing cap and dump all of the oil exiting the rear main into the bell housing. The aim is to get the bottom of the pipe below the surface of the oil in the sump to prevent this. I had 2 tries at tack welding the pipe and both failed but the pipe stayed in situ as its bend stops it from winding out. I'm now running ok on a pipe retained with heavy grade Loctite 270. The tube thread is 32tpi 3/8 but it's cheaper to get one from Belchers rather than make one as the UNEF dies cost a fortune in the UK.

08-07-2010, 05:32 PM	#1
john charlton Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,373	Engine questions Still have not got the head off my hotrod swapmeet engine but have decided to put it in a frame and fire it up with the the head nuts backed off a bit. Took the pan off and found it looks like a recent (hours wise) rebuild. Pan was mostly clean but evidence of been run hot, caramalised oil in the dipper tray etc etc . The bores from the bottom side look good with still evidence of horizontal boring marking in the bores. No trace of loose babbitt anywhere. The big ends are tight with shims in place .The engine is stiff to turn with crank handle when the pistons are mid bore so I hope nothing nasty just not broke in yet. Question,how many hours running after a rebore/new pistons will the engine "rock back" on a compression stroke ??? Also the drain tube is missing from the rear main cap, the threads in the cap are semi stripped. Just wondered should I try to fudge a new drain tube in which might fall out or will it run OK without it ??? John in cool damp nearly midnight my son has just bought a nice solid 29 pickup he has always hankered after one so he is a happy bunny England.

08-08-2010, 12:47 AM	#2
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,502	Re: Engine questions Can you wedge it (new drain tube)in and mig it with a spot weld. Bob

08-08-2010, 03:47 AM	#3
john charlton Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,373	Re: Engine questions Yes, thats what I will do,the treads are bad in the cap and even if glued I dont think that would be a long term repair. John in damp cool windy England.

08-08-2010, 01:45 PM	#4
Pete BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,423	Re: Engine questions "The bores from the bottom side look good with still evidence of horizontal boring marking in the bores." If you are describing it correctly, I would not run the engine if you expect it to last very long. It sounds like the bores were not honed. There should be NO visable HOROZONTAL lines. There should be a 45 degree (approx) cross hatch visable.

08-09-2010, 08:09 AM	#5
Brian Philpott Junior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 8	Re: Engine questions Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Hello from sunny Camberley Don't be tempted to run without the tube. Crankcase pressure fluctuations will blow out through the bearing cap and dump all of the oil exiting the rear main into the bell housing. The aim is to get the bottom of the pipe below the surface of the oil in the sump to prevent this. I had 2 tries at tack welding the pipe and both failed but the pipe stayed in situ as its bend stops it from winding out. I'm now running ok on a pipe retained with heavy grade Loctite 270. The tube thread is 32tpi 3/8 but it's cheaper to get one from Belchers rather than make one as the UNEF dies cost a fortune in the UK.