'36 221 - rebuildable??

[KiWinUS]

Too late now but the grill can stay in.

[40 Deluxe]

Originally Posted by jimTN

Its hard to tell from the pics but most of those engines had sleeves. The easiest way to work that bad cyl may be to break the piston out driving from below, worst case cutting the rod into, then -putting a sleeve in that cyl bored to match what you bore the other cyl's. As wore as the engine is I would suspect it will need boring all cyls.

DO NOT damage the rod if at all possible! They are weight matched as a set at the factory so keep all eight together. Kill the piston instead. The rod bearings are full floating so are subject to wear on both surfaces. The bearings are available in various combinations of oversize outer diameters (the rod is bored/honed oversize to match) and undersize inside diameters (to fit a reground crankshaft). The flanged rod bearings are on ebay in various sizes. Get everything measured before ordering bearings. It's amazing how well these full floaters hold up. You may not even need new ones.

[sjaakslinger]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Too late now but the grill can stay in.

Thanks, but it needed some attention anyway.

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[sjaakslinger]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

DO NOT damage the rod if at all possible! They are weight matched as a set at the factory so keep all eight together. Kill the piston instead. The rod bearings are full floating so are subject to wear on both surfaces. The bearings are available in various combinations of oversize outer diameters (the rod is bored/honed oversize to match) and undersize inside diameters (to fit a reground crankshaft). The flanged rod bearings are on ebay in various sizes. Get everything measured before ordering bearings. It's amazing how well these full floaters hold up. You may not even need new ones.

Thanks. Besides the rods, what else? I suppose the valves and springs would need replacing anyways?

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[tubman]

Some of the valve train components are bound to be damaged on removal in an engine like this. The later (non-mushroom stem valves and related) parts from an 8BA type engine are easier to get, easier to work with, and easier to pay for (at least here in the states).

[sjaakslinger]

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Do those later non-mushroom types fit in my 36 engine?

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[Mart]

Yes.

[sjaakslinger]

Thanks. Trying to figure out which parts of the engine I should definately safe and which can/should be replaced.

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[sugarmaker]

Your doing good! That bad boy needs to come out! It looks like it will need LOTS of love!
Get a engine lifter hooked on to that where mart points and pick that engine out.
Looking forward to your next steps! Good pictures by the way!
Regards,
Chris

[Mart]

Don't rule out being able to source a replacement motor. There are French and German flatheads, all of which could be made to work in your car. Plus there were a lot of USA cars in Holland back in the day. Do you know anyone in Holland into hot rods? They might have leads on motors. I know a couple of people in Holland.

[AZ34]

Reposted in a new thread.

[sjaakslinger]

Originally Posted by Mart

Don't rule out being able to source a replacement motor. There are French and German flatheads, all of which could be made to work in your car. Plus there were a lot of USA cars in Holland back in the day. Do you know anyone in Holland into hot rods? They might have leads on motors. I know a couple of people in Holland.

No, I don't know any 'flathead people' here. If my engine isn't a rebuild candidate, I have to really think it over about the car. Too many other car projects to go crazy on the Ford. Maybe if I sell another car... But I'm not there yet.[emoji16]

Still moderately positive about the engine. Hoping to pull it tomorrow and check it out more. Especially the main bearings.

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[sjaakslinger]

Got the engine out. Went pretty ok. Wasn't sure about those 2 horizontal rods coming from the frame going through the sides of the bell housing. We pulled the engine forward and got it all clear.

Next will be finding the proper way to mount the engine on an engine stand. If anyone has some pictures of what they use, it would be appreciated.

Not so nice was to find out the left front took a hit at some point. That crossmember/bar between the front wheels has a bend. [emoji19] I'll post some pics and questions in a new thread.

Dennis

I think the car looks a bit like a toothless grandma now....

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[cas3]

The side of the block where the exhaust ports are is a 45% angle. Just use a manifold for a bolt pattern, and cut a tube that fits your engine stand at 45% and weld it up. Note the front two bolts are bigger

[sjaakslinger]

We're working on a plate to mount the engine stand on the exhaust manifold port. Would a 5mm/1/5 inch plate be thick enough?

Dennis

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[frnkeore]

6mm would be better but, I think 5mm will work fine.

[Mart]

No You want at least 8mm.

[sjaakslinger]

Ok, so I guess 2 of them together to be sure.

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[bobH]

I don't 'speak-mm', so I converted from 3/8 and came up with something a little heavier that what Mart posted. So, as post 58 suggests, I'd go with the two. But, from my perspective, being old and lazy, I'd BUY a mount... previously discussed and posted here on the barn. (obviously, just opinion)

[Mart]

8mm is 5/16" and 3/8 is just a bit less than 10mm.