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Old 03-17-2026, 08:11 AM   #21
glennpm
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

I took a number of photos and dimensions. The measurements listed on your body photos are from the bottom of the body to the outside of the running board bead which is equal to the bottom of the frame.

It looks to me that the body from rear door opening to the rear of the body is too high. Is the top of the door opening dimension the same as the bottom?

I also show that the rear body to frame is just the thickness of the frame welting. Your picture in post #17 looks to be too great but can't tell well from the picture.

I have about 5mm of gas tank to body gap.

Front of door


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Last edited by glennpm; 03-17-2026 at 10:47 AM.
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Old 03-17-2026, 12:37 PM   #22
Harold Degand
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

Under the A pillar : approx 4 1/2 in (11,5cm), same thing under B pillar,
Distance D : 2 3/4 (7cm)
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File Type: jpg IMG_4827.jpg (39.5 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4826.jpg (45.7 KB, 5 views)
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Old 03-17-2026, 12:39 PM   #23
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

How it look underneath
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File Type: jpg IMG_4828.jpg (32.0 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4829.jpg (31.5 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4832.jpg (17.7 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4831.jpg (24.4 KB, 45 views)
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Old 03-17-2026, 01:27 PM   #24
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harold Degand View Post
Under the A pillar : approx 4 1/2 in (11,5cm), same thing under B pillar,
Distance D : 2 3/4 (7cm)
"D" doesn't look correct for left fender to frame mount bolt.

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Old 03-17-2026, 01:52 PM   #25
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

In the underneath shot the curve over the frame kick-up appears to not align with the high point of the frame. It looks like the body needs to go back a little. That may pivot the rear end down a bit but then you may have door fitting issues or the cowl would need to come up more than it is up right now. I do think you should try and fit the doors, then the rear end back and down and see how high cowl feel fall short. All that said it might be simpler and neater in the end to pie cut the frame and push the rails up to where you need them to be. Are you running fenders? That will certainly complicate things but with a reproduction body one has to expect to make some adjustments. Do you have chassis modification rules where you live? I know some countries do not allow one to cut and weld on the chassis.
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Old 03-17-2026, 02:03 PM   #26
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

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The floor, until the rear kickup for the gas tank, follows the top frame rail. Your floor is higher than original.



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Last edited by glennpm; 03-17-2026 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 03-17-2026, 02:20 PM   #27
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

Could be that the floor edge reinforcement is raising the body incorrectly.

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Old 03-17-2026, 05:36 PM   #28
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

My brother has an original Ford 5-window body on an original frame that has a gap similar to the pic of Glen’s above. Required a shim or two in front of the axle, and even more at the last mounting bolt.
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Old 03-27-2026, 08:43 AM   #29
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

So what is your plan Harold?
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Old 03-27-2026, 09:23 AM   #30
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

I’m still looking for a solution. It takes time. To much time.
I think I’ll heat and bend the rear pick up to rise the tank 1in.
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Old 03-27-2026, 09:25 AM   #31
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

If you're not running fenders, that may be the easiest fix.
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Old 03-27-2026, 09:26 AM   #32
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

Yes, it will be a pre war style hot rod
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Old 03-28-2026, 12:16 PM   #33
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

I wonder how well the Brookville roaster bodies fit.
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Old 03-28-2026, 02:02 PM   #34
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

I think I would check the door fit and measure the opening (distance between pillars) before doing anything to avoid creating a big problem in that area.
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Old 03-28-2026, 02:07 PM   #35
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

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I think I would check the door fit and measure the opening (distance between pillars) before doing anything to avoid creating a big problem in that area.
Yes, me too. I think the replacement floor with the edge reinforcement is the problem. If it was me, I'd cut the floor out and replace it with a correct repo floor.
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Old 03-29-2026, 02:02 AM   #36
Harold Degand
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

Actually, the door opening is kept by a square tubing bolted to the A pilar and the B pilar.
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Old 03-29-2026, 02:08 AM   #37
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

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I wonder how well the Brookville roaster bodies fit.
I think they fit better. But a Brookville body imported in Belgium is almost two times the US price.
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Old 03-29-2026, 03:16 AM   #38
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

Here are few pics I found of Swedish bodies on original frames.
Some cars have a big gap, some not.
The most signifiant is the last one.
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File Type: jpg IMG_4902.jpg (29.0 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4903.jpg (82.1 KB, 31 views)
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File Type: jpg IMG_4908.jpg (73.6 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4909.jpg (50.5 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4910.jpg (102.2 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_4912.jpg (51.1 KB, 27 views)
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Old 03-29-2026, 06:41 AM   #39
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

Some of them don't look too bad. The brown one, the last, as you mention is huge.
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Old 03-29-2026, 06:50 AM   #40
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Default Re: Original 1932 frame and repo body

I know I've read it in the past (I forget where) but original frames were subject to being bent. If a driver has a tank full of gas and a spare tire mounted back there, all of that weight is hanging out there a good distance from the rear crossmember. Traveling at a good speed and hitting a significant bump will create enough of a bending moment on the frame to bend it.
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