Engine losses power as I pull out of driveway

[drumyn29]

One of my tests also was I connected both ignition wires together and bypassed the switch completely.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by drumyn29

I just did my half assed test!

I took spark plug wire off the cap, started the car and watched the spark jump to the terminal. While it started to die out I noticed that the spark disappeared completely.

Point gap?

Based on your test here, my uneducated guess is that it is one of the things mentioned in posts #34 or#36. I think they have listed the possible items to check one at a time like mentioned also above.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Only twenty (20) seconds time to restart ........ plus only a short 20 seconds of engine running time makes a difference.

Is it possible that you follow Ford's instructions by:

1. Retarding the spark, turning the switch to "ON", starting the engine, & afterwards begin moving the spark downwards whereby the engine dies.

2. Then after waiting a few seconds in awe, repeat paragraph (1) above where moving the spark lever shorts out the ignition as one gentleman mentioned above.

What happens if you start the engine & touch absolutely nothing?

[P.S.]

Do you have the "modern" wireless lower distributor plate, by chance?

[H. L. Chauvin]

You may get what appears to be some simple looking or even stupid looking questions; but do not give up & please continue to give details.

Unless you altered components with parts advertised as modern improvements, appears every time a Model A has problems, the solutions are always something so very simple.

Like ................ did you remove that clear, inline fuel filter yet that fills up with air & prevents fuel flow?

Never give up.

[drumyn29]

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Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Only twenty (20) seconds time to restart ........ plus only a short 20 seconds of engine running time makes a difference.

Is it possible that you follow Ford's instructions by:

1. Retarding the spark, turning the switch to "ON", starting the engine, & afterwards begin moving the spark downwards whereby the engine dies.

2. Then after waiting a few seconds in awe, repeat paragraph (1) above where moving the spark lever shorts out the ignition as one gentleman mentioned above.

What happens if you start the engine & touch absolutely nothing?

For the most part, It dies only as I give it more gas/load.

[drumyn29]

Originally Posted by P.S.

Do you have the "modern" wireless lower distributor plate, by chance?

All stock parts!

[drumyn29]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

You may get what appears to be some simple looking or even stupid looking questions; but do not give up & please continue to give details.

Unless you altered components with parts advertised as modern improvements, appears every time a Model A has problems, the solutions are always something so very simple.

Like ................ did you remove that clear, inline fuel filter yet that fills up with air & prevents fuel flow?

Never give up.

I haven't taken off fuel filter but I am fine with doing that.

[maxandmickey]

I had the same issue with mine,it would start and then die on me.it was starving for fuel.carb issue .dirt was getting into it.

[Mitch//pa]

Screwing the cable into the dist to far or maybe a frayed or loose lower plate wire.

Also when it loses spark see if your losing power to the coil at the black wire
should be the drivers side terminal that feeds off the junction box

Take an ohm reading from the point arm to the red wire at the coil while you move the advance lever up and down at the same and have the KOEO. ((Key on engine off)) a credit card between the points and ignition switch on

[drumyn29]

OK!

I did an ohm test on red wire on coil to points strap. At retard is was 0 and as I slowly moved to full advance it stopped somewhere in the 232-290 range.

HOWEVER, I noticed the coil was EXTREMELY hot while I was running my tests.

I also tested black coil wire while car was dying and it stayed lit the entire time.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by drumyn29

OK!

I did an ohm test on red wire on coil to points strap. At retard is was 0 and as I slowly moved to full advance it stopped somewhere in the 232-290 range.

HOWEVER, I noticed the coil was EXTREMELY hot while I was running my tests.

I also tested black coil wire while car was dying and it stayed lit the entire time.

disconnect the red wire from the coil and retest it should stay at 0 ohms the whole time while moving the lever,, credit card separating points

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

disconnect the red wire from the coil and retest it should stay at 0 ohms the whole time while moving the lever,, credit card separating points

With the points held open, shouldn't it show a resistive circuit, not 0 ohms?

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by P.S.

With the points held open, shouldn't it show a resistive circuit, not 0 ohms?

yes my error
but a chepo meter may not show much resistance in the circuit

[drumyn29]

disconnected red wire and got a reading of 0. And the coil still gets hot.

[P.S.]

Possible internal short in coil.

[drumyn29]

I happen to have an extra 6 volt coil and I installed and ran same tests and got same results, but the coil did NOT heat up this time.

[drumyn29]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

disconnect the red wire from the coil and retest it should stay at 0 ohms the whole time while moving the lever,, credit card separating points

Am I supposed to be doing ohm test at TDC? Should I test when points are on a lobe or does it matter?

[Mitch//pa]

try it with a credit card separating the points , ignition on it should show a completed circuit from the red wire removed from the coil to the moveable point arm.. by move the advance lever around it flexes the lower plate wire and points insulator and may sometimes show up an intermittent by doing that.
the coil should not be getting hot with the ignition switch wire disconnected

[drumyn29]

Originally Posted by drumyn29

disconnected red wire and got a reading of 0. And the coil still gets hot.

My mistake coil does NOT get hot.