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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3
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I have a 1929 model A that used to be my grandfather's that I got to start once, and haven't been able to since. The starter is turning the motor, but I'm not getting any voltage from the ignition coil.
The wires heading leading into the coil are reading 6V, and I've tried 2 coils other than the original, as well as a replaced the wire leading to the distributor, but still can't get any current through going to the distributor. Anyone know what could be wrong? |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: capemaynewjersey
Posts: 653
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Get a model Amade book ,a good start
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lynden, Wa
Posts: 3,942
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Hi Stac and welcome! A couple of things to check:
1) Timing 2) points are they good? 3) condenser 4) Ammeter is it good-not shorted? 5) No shorting behind the dash panel? Mike
__________________
1930 TownSedan (Briggs) 1957 Country Sedan |
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#4 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3
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Mike,
1. It was recently timed, although it might need to be redone, since new points were put on. 2. They're new. A guy from one of the local clubs helped rebuild the distributor before I lost contact with him a few months ago. 3. We tried 3 or 4 different condensers that the guy mentioned above brought over. 4. It might be busted, it's stuck reading 2 amps. That shouldn't interfere with starting the car though, should it. I thought it would be on a parallel circuit. 5. No shorting that I could find. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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If you have 6 volts at both coil terminals, then forget the ammeter as being a problem. Look for the problem between the coil and points. With the key on and points open, do you have 6 volts on the movable points contact? I've seen the metal strap for the points arm ground out, or the short wire terminal between the top and bottom plates in the distributor ground out. I've also seen repro ignition switches not make good contact and not send the coil voltage to the points.
Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 03-15-2014 at 05:19 PM. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 482
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Last edited by SDJason; 03-15-2014 at 10:10 PM. |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 4,432
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Do you know how to start a Model A? Not as straight forward as you may think.
1 retard spark all the way, left lever to up position 2 advance throttle a little, right lever down a little 3 turn choke rod/mixture all the way to the right and then back off one turn 4 open gas turncock 5 turn on key 6 hit starter 7 pull choke rod closed and then immediately open 8 if it doesn't start when you open the choke after a 1-2 revs something is wrong. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Me.
Posts: 260
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I f the coil is getting hot with the switch on, look for a short between the switch and points. Ron W
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ottawa,Ontario, Canada
Posts: 271
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Have you checked continuity within your coil wire to the distributor? It could be just a bad coil wire.
The other common ones I've heard mentioned are the ignition cable screwed too far into the distributor shorting out or sometimes people forget the insulating washer when replacing a condenser. |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
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__________________
What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#12 |
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BANNED
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bucks County, PA
Posts: 11,454
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does your distributor turn when cranking
when the points are closed and key on do you lose the 6v at the dist side of the coil are you using one of those modern lower plates in the dist with the brass contact? i have seen them fail when attempting to start or when moving the advance.. it can be intermittent and test good till cranking Last edited by Mitch//pa; 03-16-2014 at 01:37 PM. |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,600
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Did it run Ok after the timing was redone ? Assuming no mechanical faults and timing OKish then follow this link, never fails-work through it http://www.sacramentocapitolas.org/s...20Shooting.pdf
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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As Mitch asked, does the voltage at the points drop to zero when they close?
If not, then try using a jumper wire to supply a good ground to the distributor cast body. |
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#15 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 482
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Quote:
Thanks - you're right, your second picture shows that you've got good electrical going all the way out to the points arm. next dumb question (sorry if you've already tried this, but have to ask) - with the points closed and ignition on, have you tried opening the points manually while holding the coil wire near a head bolt to check for spark? |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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Have you cleaned the points?? What is the gap?? Are the plugs wet??
Paul in CT |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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I was going to say what is the point gap? If they were new awhile back and you have not reset them, then they may need to be reset.
__________________
Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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