brake adjusting woes

[todd3131]

I am working on a 36 I have put in teds floaters after going through the system adjusting the brake rods shoes testing readjusting ad nauseum I now have them just OK I was having issues with I pulling to the right and it is better but not like I would like to see them. What am in doing wrong? I noticed today some wear in the brake cross shaft on the left bushin loose could this be my problem? I have a thirty two that I'm going to put teds on and that cross shaft is loose also. Any suggestions are welcome
Todd 3131

[KiWinUS]

I can help , but im watchin The Buckeyes game . will tell you later

[Brendan]

I have a service manual for 1936, it has the brake adjustments in there
the first thing it says is remove all the clevises from all four corners then adjust all four wheels, just like you would on a car with juice brakes. then this is where I have to reed up, and I let a friend barrow the book. but I think you need to pull the hand brake 3 clicks and adjust the rods. you need to pull up on the slack on the lever on each wheel, and then adjust the rod 1/16 shorter. but there is a little more to it. I just cant remember it all I hope this helps a little

[Brian]

Todd, After following the workshop procedure, removing ALL slack etc, I test my brakes on a gravel road. It is very easy to gauge, by the skidmarks, what each wheel is doing. Back off the adjustment on the drum that is coming on first, and re-test. Keep adjusting [by backing off in the manner I've described, NOT by putting more adjustment on the loosest] , until all skid marks are equal. Job done.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by todd3131

I am working on a 36 I have put in teds floaters after going through the system adjusting the brake rods shoes testing readjusting ad nauseum I now have them just OK I was having issues with I pulling to the right and it is better but not like I would like to see them. What am in doing wrong? I noticed today some wear in the brake cross shaft on the left bushin loose could this be my problem? I have a thirty two that I'm going to put teds on and that cross shaft is loose also. Any suggestions are welcome
Todd 3131

Todd, everything in that mechanical brake system must be checked and any parts that are worn must be replaced/rebuilt before those floaters can be expected to work correctly. Having a good working cross shaft is a must if you ever expect the system to work well. Once you get the entire brake system in good repair and floaters installed correctly, there is an outlined procedure in the Ford service manuals/service bulletins that tells you step by step how to properly adjust everything. I did all of this on my '35 fordor back in May. It now stops as well as the early Ford V-8's that first came with hydraulic brakes.

[FlatheadTed]

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Also ,Check the ware patterns on the shoes as it is ,its possible that one set of shoes is sitting higher therefor allowing that set to come on earlier ,Re poped parts are often not as good as Fords, such as the King pins can be drilled to small causing the push rod to bind up ,.To fix this bend a deg bend in the top 3/4 of it .Also .Replacement springs are far to strong .I would walk a country mile first before I would automatically change any good Ford bits .On my system adjust the fronts with the rears backed of to make sure the fronts are working well ! if the rears come on to early this can give poor brakes because the shoes on the front barely reach the drums . The front clevis shafts rarely give problems they need to be very worn to creat problems ,A to B brake adjustment on a v8 with rods ,With the car on axle stands and all the rods disconnected from the wheels check free movement of the pedal and return ,remove any excessively heavy springs ,Check that there is no excessive play in the cross shaft /equalizer .Work the clevis by hand with the drum off and observe the mechanism ,then also while spinning the wheel.The rotating wheel should come to a sudden holt .Note at what angle the clevis engages the brakes ,balance this up with the square adjuster ,15 to 20 Degrease before activating .let out the rods until you can just slide the clevis pin in.Hold the pedal down 1/4 set them up so the fronts just drag and the rears only just free wheel .Then Road test the car and check the temperature of the drums . Ride the pedal till hot ,readjust each wheel on the road ,reconnect the rears and retest .

[FlatheadTed]

If drums are worn more than 12 then thicker linings can help .The king push rod and shoe adjuster links are often worn and need replacing or you can add some weld to all three,