6V negative ground assistance needed....please

[adavis]

Tom, is it really that simple? Just connect the points wire to the negative post on the coil and run the positive side of the coil to the switched terminal on the ignition? That would be awesome if that was all I had to do........

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by adavis

Tom, is it really that simple? Just connect the points wire to the negative post on the coil and run the positive side of the coil to the switched terminal on the ignition? That would be awesome if that was all I had to do........

Yes, it's that easy. You have simply moved the location of the switch in the coil primary circuit.

[Paul in Colorado]

Originally Posted by adavis

Tom, is it really that simple? Just connect the points wire to the negative post on the coil and run the positive side of the coil to the switched terminal on the ignition? That would be awesome if that was all I had to do........

That's exactly what I described in post #16, except I described a way to do it in physical terms rather than electrical terms.

Paul

[adavis]

GREAT! I'm glad I don't have to "complicate" this thing. The factory wiring is simple, but it just doesn't have the ability to add the few accessories I need. Thank you very much everyone. I'll let you know how it works out.
Oh, one last thing. Do I leave all the other wires like they are (to the ammeter, generator, etc)? This change won't effect my ammeter I presume. Thanks.

[Paul in Colorado]

Originally Posted by adavis

GREAT! I'm glad I don't have to "complicate" this thing. The factory wiring is simple, but it just doesn't have the ability to add the few accessories I need. Thank you very much everyone. I'll let you know how it works out.
Oh, one last thing. Do I leave all the other wires like they are (to the ammeter, generator, etc)? This change won't effect my ammeter I presume. Thanks.

If you do what I described in post #16, it does not affect any of the other wiring. It just allows you to connect other accessories to the switch, since you are switching the power to the coil, not its output.

The only other effect of switching this way, is that you can hot wire the car by connecting a clip lead from the terminal box nut to the coil input. (Don't tell anybody.) This may come in handy if the switch is defective or you lose the key. This is why Henry switched the coil output and used the armored cable, to prevent hot wiring.

[adavis]

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UPDATE:.....I rewired the ignition as described above and it appears to work fine. I now have a true switched 6V power terminal on the accessory side of the new ignition switch I got from Snyders. This definitely seems like the way it should be wired, but I realize it is not original as Henry designed it. At any rate, it works for everything I need. Thanks again everyone for the input and suggestions.