The Ford Barn

Maclab58 · 08-10-2010, 10:29 PM

after multiple problems with my current distributor i have decided to purchase a rebuilt one. Which one do I buy, an original style or a modern points? opinions?

Logan · 08-10-2010, 10:41 PM

for convenience of getting points and condensors get the modern set up. the block that rides the cam also last longer on the modern style points. but the original are way easier to adjust. thats pretty much the only posotive thing about them.

J Franklin · 08-10-2010, 11:17 PM

Use an original, when set up properly they work as intended and last at least 80 years or so

JoeWay · 08-10-2010, 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Logan

...the block that rides the cam also last longer on the modern style points...

Are you sure about this? The conventional wisdom as posted on this forum is that, after the initial wear-in, original point blocks last a LONG time.

Joe

Logan · 08-10-2010, 11:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeWay

Are you sure about this? The conventional wisdom as posted on this forum is that, after the initial wear-in, original point blocks last a LONG time.

Joe

Everyone has their own opinion. this is mine. Someone will probably come behind me and say otherwise. Something i should have mentioned before, you get what you pay for. Either way you decide to go, do not get the $5 points. Just pony up and pay for the $20 sets. They last SO much longer. I was working on a ladies car today, and her son-in-law put thos P.O.S points in it, and guess what couple hundred miles later they are gone. So either way you decide to go, dont be try and save $15 when your spending like 150 on a rebuilt distributor already.

Kurt in NJ · 08-11-2010, 12:07 AM

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I am still testing the life of the original style set of points that came with the car, it has been very low maintaince, put it together in 1972, replaced the repro shaft with NOS in 1986, changed a few condensers until I got the A&L one in 1986.

Many of the repro parts and improvements are worse than worn original parts ---in my opinion.

My improvement was to use wire from a Chevy dist I found behind a gas station for the pigtail ---it had 100+ strands and didn't break when repeatedly bent. ---long after it was gone I learned it was from a fuel injected car, I had taken it apart to "see how it worked", I remember it having a gear drive for a shaft on the side.

Maclab58 · 08-13-2010, 07:24 AM

Well, the modern points distributor arrived yesterday afternoon so I ran to the shop to put it on and give it a try. Holy Cow what a difference! I hit nearly 50 mph which had before was 35 at best. The backfiring when I turned it off is gone it accelerates smoothly and I dont know but I couldnt get it to overheat yesterday which had been a real problem before.

skip · 08-13-2010, 08:40 AM

I have the two piece shaft and really good bushings as no slop. Inside the distributor, not much can go wrong. Pull the distributor, open it up, take it apart and learn it. Love it.

I use the modern upper plate with 1970 Ford V-8 points and condenser.

I left the original lower isolated plate that has the tang for the jacketed spring loaded ignition cable end to touch and make contact to energized the points.

That lower isolated plate also has a tang for mounting the original style condenser and a screw hole to secure the original condenser. That tang has been known [by heat or vibration?] at idle to touch the inside of the distributor body, shorting out the points. It can be bent inboard just a tad. Or a piece of silver duct tape between the tang and distributor body can act as a pad to keep that tang from sparking out.

It is imperative that the spring loaded brass jacketed ignition cable end that is isolated in a screw-in distributor end, not be screwed into the body of the distributor too far thus shorting out the points via the lower plate.

Either way, with or without that heavy armored corrugated protective pop-out tube with the jacketed ignition cable inside it, not be grounded going up to the points on the upper plate. Check, check, check, with a continuity meter.

Hint: Do not 'clean' the upper plate with WD-40, as this usually shorts out the condenser and that generally kills the juice to the coil, making for a weak or no spark at the plugs.

Hint: A small piece of paper under the rotor takes the wobble out of that assembly.
Hint: A ring of PVC electric tape around the bottom of the distributor cap takes the wobble away from the distributor body and cap. You'll have to cope around the pin under the cap. But it certainly firms up the assembly. No more slop and cocking of the distributor cap toward advance or retard.

I posted -->>Dinking Around Inside My Distributor for more information on the dist.

skip.

vinepro · 08-13-2010, 09:01 AM

The biggest benefit to using the modern upper plate with modern points and condenser is you will not have to mess with the points ones you have them set up right. There is nothing wrong with the original distributor it just takes more maintenance to keep the points adjusted. enjoy the new one.

08-10-2010, 10:29 PM	#1
Maclab58 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Wichita Falls, Texas Posts: 983	distributor after multiple problems with my current distributor i have decided to purchase a rebuilt one. Which one do I buy, an original style or a modern points? opinions?

08-10-2010, 10:41 PM	#2
Logan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 1,055	Re: distributor for convenience of getting points and condensors get the modern set up. the block that rides the cam also last longer on the modern style points. but the original are way easier to adjust. thats pretty much the only posotive thing about them. __________________ Cowtown A's

08-10-2010, 11:17 PM	#3
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 6,005	Re: distributor Use an original, when set up properly they work as intended and last at least 80 years or so

08-11-2010, 12:07 AM	#6
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,174	Re: distributor Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I am still testing the life of the original style set of points that came with the car, it has been very low maintaince, put it together in 1972, replaced the repro shaft with NOS in 1986, changed a few condensers until I got the A&L one in 1986. Many of the repro parts and improvements are worse than worn original parts ---in my opinion. My improvement was to use wire from a Chevy dist I found behind a gas station for the pigtail ---it had 100+ strands and didn't break when repeatedly bent. ---long after it was gone I learned it was from a fuel injected car, I had taken it apart to "see how it worked", I remember it having a gear drive for a shaft on the side.

08-13-2010, 07:24 AM	#7
Maclab58 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Wichita Falls, Texas Posts: 983	Re: distributor Well, the modern points distributor arrived yesterday afternoon so I ran to the shop to put it on and give it a try. Holy Cow what a difference! I hit nearly 50 mph which had before was 35 at best. The backfiring when I turned it off is gone it accelerates smoothly and I dont know but I couldnt get it to overheat yesterday which had been a real problem before.

08-13-2010, 08:40 AM	#8
skip Banned Join Date: May 2010 Location: Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin Posts: 408	Re: distributor I have the two piece shaft and really good bushings as no slop. Inside the distributor, not much can go wrong. Pull the distributor, open it up, take it apart and learn it. Love it. I use the modern upper plate with 1970 Ford V-8 points and condenser. I left the original lower isolated plate that has the tang for the jacketed spring loaded ignition cable end to touch and make contact to energized the points. That lower isolated plate also has a tang for mounting the original style condenser and a screw hole to secure the original condenser. That tang has been known [by heat or vibration?] at idle to touch the inside of the distributor body, shorting out the points. It can be bent inboard just a tad. Or a piece of silver duct tape between the tang and distributor body can act as a pad to keep that tang from sparking out. It is imperative that the spring loaded brass jacketed ignition cable end that is isolated in a screw-in distributor end, not be screwed into the body of the distributor too far thus shorting out the points via the lower plate. Either way, with or without that heavy armored corrugated protective pop-out tube with the jacketed ignition cable inside it, not be grounded going up to the points on the upper plate. Check, check, check, with a continuity meter. Hint: Do not 'clean' the upper plate with WD-40, as this usually shorts out the condenser and that generally kills the juice to the coil, making for a weak or no spark at the plugs. Hint: A small piece of paper under the rotor takes the wobble out of that assembly. Hint: A ring of PVC electric tape around the bottom of the distributor cap takes the wobble away from the distributor body and cap. You'll have to cope around the pin under the cap. But it certainly firms up the assembly. No more slop and cocking of the distributor cap toward advance or retard. I posted -->>Dinking Around Inside My Distributor for more information on the dist. skip. Last edited by skip; 08-13-2010 at 08:54 AM.

08-13-2010, 09:01 AM	#9
vinepro Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Napa Valley, CA Posts: 53	Re: distributor The biggest benefit to using the modern upper plate with modern points and condenser is you will not have to mess with the points ones you have them set up right. There is nothing wrong with the original distributor it just takes more maintenance to keep the points adjusted. enjoy the new one.