t-5 confused which one?

[bugsiegel]

photos

[jdl]

Originally Posted by bugsiegel

need a little help please.
I took the trans apart and took photo's all the way through. But I hadn't disassembled the main shaft because I needed a press. I forgot to bring my camera.to my fatherinlaws the next day. My fatherinlaw and I took it apart naturally I can't remember where anything goes. I have looked at the diagrams on line but some are not clear, some don't exactly match what I have when I look at the shifter position, some have part numbers that belong to their own inventory ect......
I believe from my photos I have the major parts in order but the three roman numeral parts need a home and I can't figure it out. Also I need to replace #7 worn inside - #i was damaged during dissassembly and just one sincro ring of the four that are the same ( not the over drive ). So if you can help with the part numbers.
Again my trans number is 145
and while were here, tell me if I have any of the parts out of order.
I've used Chris Neighbors article to guide me but his diagram also shows the trans way back on the tail stock. Anybody have a good diagram for this trans?

Maybe this will help?

http://www.flatheadv8.org/T5Rebuild.pdf

[Flat Ernie]

Originally Posted by bugsiegel

I'm just a little confused though. If the bell housing is tight to the block and the trans is tight to the bell housing where is the adjustment possible? It sounds to me that once the trans is tight to the block the out put shaft will land where it lands? Unless spacers are used between the bell and the block?

Well, that sounds logical, but it isn't. The front mounts are rubber. If you have no rear mount, the trans will hang down. As you support the trans with a crossmember, how you fabricate the crossmember will determine the inclination of the engine.

Generally, if you're installing an drivetrain from scratch, you want a few degrees down. Really, the key is that your crankshaft & transmission output shaft centerline is parallel to the pinion centerline.

This is usually accomplished with a magnetic angle finder. Measure the angle of the pinion at ride height. Then fabricate your new transmission mount so the output shaft of the trans has the same angle. Parallel...not pointing at each other.

If you do not do this, you may develop driveshaft vibrations and/or destroy u-joints.

[bugsiegel]

It appears that I have a damaged second gear and I have to replace the 1/2 slider. My understanding ( after several phone calls) is the slider is available and might be the same between NWC and WC, the second gear is a different issue and may or may not still be available. Any ideas where to start my search?

Positive stops on the shifter or not, what are you guys running?

[4t8v8]

A lot depends on the way you are going to use it. I don't use positive stops on mine as it is used as a daily driver and a truck. If you are going to race and shift hard then positive stops are the way to go. I gave up on racing many years ago. I could manage the cubic inches but not the cubic dollars!

[Flat Ernie]

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I think positive stops are almost a necessity on these internal rail shifters. It will prevent the shift forks from fatiguing and subsequently cracking due to over extension. This is common, not just on T5 that are raced, but even those used moderately. If you add on a longer shift handle, as most of us do, the leverage increases and it occurs more. A correctly adjusted positive stop shifter is one of the best investments you can make.

A cheap $50 eBay shifter for a Mustang can be easily modified to fit the S10 shifter box. The rear holes are in the correct place and you need only redrill the front holes and trim the shifter base to fit. Almost all of these Mustang shifters have positive stops.

[bugsiegel]

Flat Ernie,
I see some shifters on ebay that have two side screws which limit left right travel but I though that positive stop will prevent a shift back into first from second. I can't seem to find any offered that do just that. Definitely not for 50 bucks.
What is positive stop? Or are we just talking about stiffer springs to pull the shifter into the center position quicker/harder?
Thanks

[Flat Ernie]

The positive stops are typically bolts for the forward/backward. It does prevent moving the shifter a certain amount. It is not stiffer springs.

Here's a 'factory' Hurst unit. I think these were used on some of the early SVO and Cobras. Hurst offered them for a while too and then changed the design. This should give you an idea of the concept:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-0-Mustang-...r#ht_558wt_932

Here's a standard $50 shifter. The stops are not installed in the picture, but the hardware packet has the bolts:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-04-FORD-M...ht_3141wt_1018

Here's what that $50 shifter will look like with the bolts installed (this is a more expensive shifter):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-HP-Mustang...#ht_4491wt_821

And here's the $30 shifter:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-02-03-FOR...ht_2994wt_1160

Same thing as the $50 shifter.

[bugsiegel]

finished and painted. I can't install it for a few weeks. The wife is asking me to build a wall unit for the basement play room. I had to finish the trans to clear the counter top for wood work.
Be right back.