The Ford Barn

Bobster · 07-12-2010, 09:39 AM

I have had my '28 Roadster on the road now for about a month. I am running steel drums and woven linings. The brakes seem to fade fairly quickly on a particular hill near my house. I have the brakes adjusted correctly according to Ford Service Bulletin, but with no separate Emergency brake, I could use better stopping power. Bratton's sells AR drums made of ductile iron. Anyone using them? I would like to get the best performance for the car and not spend money unwisely. Brake tips appreciated - especially AR remedies. Thanks, BW

John LaVoy · 07-12-2010, 11:42 AM

When you say you are running AR brakes do you have the floating system with the small dog bone shaped connector in the center or the modified system with the solid one piece activating arm? The floating system was discontinued and many states outlawed it. The phaeton in the avatar is an early 28 and had that system on it for years. Every now and then the floating system would bind and you would have very little braking ability. If you have the floating system I would look for the single piece replacement. It is an easy change and keeps the left hand brake.

Bobster · 07-12-2010, 01:17 PM

I have the single piece activating arm, so I am good there. I have all the adjustments to specs, but suspect the steel rims. I have not had a caliper on them to check thickness, but the New rear brakes I put on recently had to be sanded down for the drum to fit over them. I did not have to remove much material, but the fit was too tight without sanding. BW

John LaVoy · 07-12-2010, 02:55 PM

With the one piece activation arm they should work as well as any Model A brakes. When you say they are to the service bulletin specs have the tracks and rollers been restored? The other item is the shaft in the front brakes that needs to be 7.5inches if I remember correctly. The arm on the front brakes should lean forward at about 15 degrees. The rod inside the activation system wears down and that causes a reduction in brake pressure. Check this before popping for new drums.

As an aside I use a different brake adjustment procedure than in the service bulletins. This came from a Ford mechanic at the time the Model A was new. Get all four wheels off the ground. Undo the clevis pins on the brake rods at the adjustment point. Tighten the shoes until the drums do not turn. Tighten the brake rod adjustment until you can just get the rods back on the pin then back off the adjusting wedge until the wheel will turn. Now when you hit the brakes it will really lock them up if need be.

V4F · 07-12-2010, 02:58 PM

use cast or better drums . cuts the fade ................... im using 'rocky mountain' in front & cast in rear . great brakes . oh yea , teds kits .................. steve

billwill · 07-12-2010, 02:59 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobster

I have had my '28 Roadster on the road now for about a month. I am running steel drums and woven linings. The brakes seem to fade fairly quickly on a particular hill near my house. I have the brakes adjusted correctly according to Ford Service Bulletin, but with no separate Emergency brake, I could use better stopping power. Bratton's sells AR drums made of ductile iron. Anyone using them? I would like to get the best performance for the car and not spend money unwisely. Brake tips appreciated - especially AR remedies. Thanks, BW

do away withthe hill

Bobster · 07-12-2010, 03:20 PM

John LaVoy - Thanks for the tip on alternative adjustment. I will try that tomorrow. BTW - The hill I lose braking power on is not that steep - just long and curvy. Engine compression is good and "brakes" me somewhat, but the final stop is a mighty effort. Will update when I find improvement. BW

07-12-2010, 09:39 AM	#1
Bobster Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Huntington, WV Posts: 52	AR Brakes I have had my '28 Roadster on the road now for about a month. I am running steel drums and woven linings. The brakes seem to fade fairly quickly on a particular hill near my house. I have the brakes adjusted correctly according to Ford Service Bulletin, but with no separate Emergency brake, I could use better stopping power. Bratton's sells AR drums made of ductile iron. Anyone using them? I would like to get the best performance for the car and not spend money unwisely. Brake tips appreciated - especially AR remedies. Thanks, BW __________________ BW in WV

07-12-2010, 11:42 AM	#2
John LaVoy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rocklin, CA Posts: 1,219	Re: AR Brakes When you say you are running AR brakes do you have the floating system with the small dog bone shaped connector in the center or the modified system with the solid one piece activating arm? The floating system was discontinued and many states outlawed it. The phaeton in the avatar is an early 28 and had that system on it for years. Every now and then the floating system would bind and you would have very little braking ability. If you have the floating system I would look for the single piece replacement. It is an easy change and keeps the left hand brake.

07-12-2010, 01:17 PM	#3
Bobster Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Huntington, WV Posts: 52	Re: AR Brakes I have the single piece activating arm, so I am good there. I have all the adjustments to specs, but suspect the steel rims. I have not had a caliper on them to check thickness, but the New rear brakes I put on recently had to be sanded down for the drum to fit over them. I did not have to remove much material, but the fit was too tight without sanding. BW __________________ BW in WV

07-12-2010, 02:55 PM	#4
John LaVoy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Rocklin, CA Posts: 1,219	Re: AR Brakes With the one piece activation arm they should work as well as any Model A brakes. When you say they are to the service bulletin specs have the tracks and rollers been restored? The other item is the shaft in the front brakes that needs to be 7.5inches if I remember correctly. The arm on the front brakes should lean forward at about 15 degrees. The rod inside the activation system wears down and that causes a reduction in brake pressure. Check this before popping for new drums. As an aside I use a different brake adjustment procedure than in the service bulletins. This came from a Ford mechanic at the time the Model A was new. Get all four wheels off the ground. Undo the clevis pins on the brake rods at the adjustment point. Tighten the shoes until the drums do not turn. Tighten the brake rod adjustment until you can just get the rods back on the pin then back off the adjusting wedge until the wheel will turn. Now when you hit the brakes it will really lock them up if need be.

07-12-2010, 02:58 PM	#5
V4F Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ca. Posts: 2,524	Re: AR Brakes use cast or better drums . cuts the fade ................... im using 'rocky mountain' in front & cast in rear . great brakes . oh yea , teds kits .................. steve __________________ V4f

07-12-2010, 03:20 PM	#7
Bobster Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Huntington, WV Posts: 52	Re: AR Brakes John LaVoy - Thanks for the tip on alternative adjustment. I will try that tomorrow. BTW - The hill I lose braking power on is not that steep - just long and curvy. Engine compression is good and "brakes" me somewhat, but the final stop is a mighty effort. Will update when I find improvement. BW __________________ BW in WV