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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 180
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This newbie is not getting fire to the #1 plug. I notice my plug was wet and I had a misfire. I have shorted it, no fire. Finally I put a timing light to all plugs and it works on all but this plug. Cleaned rotor cap and rotor contacts. Any ideas. Thanks in advance.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Clinton,WA/Whidbey Island
Posts: 4,614
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Change plugs around and see if another plug fires in the #1 cyl?! Could be just a bad plug. Keep us posted on results. stock cap etc? or modern wires etc?
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www.whidbeymodelaclub.com |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 180
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But would I not still have fire even if the plug were bad. Or would a bad plug short the fire.The plug is almost new.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Also be sure you have current flowing through your distributor body for #1.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 180
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Fred How do I test my distributor rotor body. Thanks
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Crete, Illinois
Posts: 307
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Stayton, Oregon
Posts: 3,806
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Fordfixer gave you a good explanation.
You would need a test meter to do what he suggests.
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Fred Kroon 1929 Std Coupe 1929 Huckster |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,168
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You may have a crack in the top portion of the distributor at #1. terminal causing the spark to be deflected to ground. Try another upper distributor body.
Tom Endy |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southbridge, Ma.
Posts: 1,614
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Pull the contact strip away from the plug by about 1/8 inch then start the engine. You should see the spark jump across. If no spark I would suspect the distributor body.
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#10 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Manassas, Va.
Posts: 87
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After you check all that other crap, check the point gap on #1 dist cam lobe or maybe a wobbly dist shaft
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oxford Hills, Maine
Posts: 325
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Have someone you don't particularly like or your local Model A know-it-all hold onto the brass strip going to the number one plug. Crank the engine over a few times with the ignition on. If the person screams or jumps ten feet in the air or is seen running around shaking his hand like it was covered with stinging bees then the distributer body is OK and the fault must be in the plug. If nothing happens, then the distributer body is at fault. I'm just kidding. Don't really do this. You may injure someone or kill them. I would feel very sad and guilty if that happened.
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 180
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I can run a continuity check on the rotor body which is what I will do next. Now another question. I have all new plugs that only have about 1 hour total on them. Can a plug go bad just by being flooded out or do I just clean the contact area. I really do apprecitate all the help. Joe B.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,987
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I have gotten bad plugs right out of the box
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 4,502
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Switching them sround will snswer that question. Bob
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
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Yes, plugs can be fouled by flooding the engine with gas, or oil fouled. If that's the case I'd heat the plug tip with a propane torch to burn off the gas or oil.
I'm also betting on a bad distributor body. I've seen a few shorted internally so the spark jumps to another plug. Easy enough to switch the cap and it's a good idea to have a spare anyway. |
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