shock conversion

[CarlG]

OK, My truck had the friction type shocks on it when I bought it. They were no doubt installed on it when it was "restored" about 20 years ago. While the ride seems "OK", I have thought of putting original type shocks on it. If I were to purchace a set of Stipe shocks, what else would I have to buy in order to be able to install them correctly?

[KGBnut]

If you are thinking of going with tubular shocks, I'm with the 'Ken Davis' group. I can't say enough about them. Work great and easy to install.

[400A-64]

Brent , to answer your question...Nothing!! I had one of the flat bars break.
That's when I had a set of originals rebuilt. ( should of rebuilt them in the first place)
Bruce Davis [email protected]

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by CarlG

OK, My truck had the friction type shocks on it when I bought it. They were no doubt installed on it when it was "restored" about 20 years ago. While the ride seems "OK", I have thought of putting original type shocks on it. If I were to purchace a set of Stipe shocks, what else would I have to buy in order to be able to install them correctly?

Well without seeing a visual on what you have, the 'textbook' answer is going to be that after Bill Stipe's shocks are mounted with the correct style bolts, you will need a set of shock arms and the bolt/nut/cotter pin that locks it onto the shock, ...and you will need a link to connect the arm to the perch/housing mount. There are a couple of options but originally they used a Tubular Link (which can be purchased from Vendors) or some folks use the later style links often referred to a "dogbones". Therefore you will need shock mounting bolts, shock arms, links, and the hardware for the previously two mentioned items.

.

[theHIGHLANDER]

Well, I'm shocked at the varied opinions

Tube, lever, friction, gas, adjustable. It's a damper as we all know. Consider the weight and the desired control. Consider your normal driving conditions. I live in a MI county that has no road money so my roads suck.

IMO, it's hard to beat the real deal. It can be copied with friction shocks but not for long. I can't speak to a tube conversion, but I'm thinking the angle of mounting will also have a lot to do with the shock's performance. Think about how the axle reacts to a bump or drop in the road. It surely does not move straight up and down. Do these new kits consider that? The more linear the action is to the axle the better the damping. If the shock is too vertical it will dampen more than you want it to because it's "moving faster than the axle". Make sense? This is the reason the ball joint links connect the levers to the axles, so they can offer linear damping to the natural twist of the buggy spring mountings. Someone mentioned Speedway. Good idea. Take a look at some of the hot rod set ups and note the angles that the shocks are mounted when using the single spring. Some of the more pricey front suspensions are very well designed and can offer some perspective. I personalyl would rather have the OEM stuff, but I can see that prices for those parts has become a bit high. I can buy used 30s Packard shocks cheaper sometimes!

[1931 flamingo]

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The OEM stuff w/links was mounted vertically....................

Paul in CT

[jan bogert]

i had the ones that the bottom bracket got u bolted to the axle. NO GOOD i moved the bracket to the front radius rod behind the shackles. no they are faceing inward and forward slightly. THEY WORK PERFECT. i can push down on the bumper it comes up with no bounce

[Kahuna]

I am using the MGB rear lever shocks on the front of my 32 Model B. Seem to be great

[theHIGHLANDER]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

The OEM stuff with links was mounted vertically....................

Paul in CT