53 valve question

[FRANK PKNY]

Trying to get a valve guide lock out of a 53 engine. Can't get the valve guide lock to come out , been releasing the spring pressure with the bar, via pushing it down and pulling the lock slightly down and out to no avail.
have done this mant times on the early style engines without a problem. Am I missing something? ThanksFrank

[Ronnie]

Remove the valve locks,remove valve,and drive the guide down.

[ford1]

buy or borrow the tool that goes past an open valve from the top, it then rests on top of the guide so you can drive it down to remove the horse shoe keeper, even with the keeper out you may still not be able to force the guide and spring assembly out of the engine

[Bruce Lancaster]

I don't know if this relates at all to your problem...look at this picture:

http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/F...ve1949to53.jpg

On these late ones you have 2 pieces, labeled 6517 and 6514 here, to push up before you can extract the keepers

[Bruce Lancaster]

Oops...seems I was looking at the wrong end of the problem! Yes, guide HAS TO go down a ways before that retainer can come out as Ford intended.
If you are not worried about Ford's intentions there are both drivers and special pry bars of several types designed to force it out, ruining the keeper but often saving hours of work. There is always some risk with any of these of mangling the thing without actually getting it out.

[Jack E/NJ]

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Use spanner to pry 6514 up, push valve down to release 6517 and 6518 clip retainers. Then pull valve out. Push or tap 6510 guide down to release horseshoe clip 6512 from block recess. Image from VanPeltSales site. Jack E/NJ

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

As Jack E N/Y says, remove the keepers and spring retainer from the bottom of the valve, then pull the valve out, then pry the spring over and down off the guide, now drive the guide all the way down with the horseshoe guide lock still on. Walt

[Barry WNY]

Solid stainless antenna, like '60's Mopar tougher than anything else. I heated & bent a tight hook about a 1/4" radius in one end to grab the horseshoe lock, handle loop on the other. You can pull seriously hard on locks and other stuck small stuff that I cannot recall right now.

[ford1]

if you put any thing in the hole in the tab of the horse keeper and get real rough with it you will just tear the hole out, if the guide is stuck the only way to get the keeper out is drive the guide down and then remove the keeper, if you have the tool to drive the guide down past an open valve to remove the keeper, once the guide is moved when driving it down it will then come out the top with out trying to remove the valve keepers, they can be a pain to remove while in the engine

[FRANK PKNY]

Thanks for all the help. Got it out. Used acatone and trans fluid, to desolve the crud and was able to pull the guide down and remove the clip. Sorry I have not been around here lately. Been laid up with recovering from surgery. Did a 1915 T touring last winter. Took The 35Cabriolet out last Sat. Shifting With My right toe. Frank

[Seth Swoboda]

Originally Posted by FRANK PKNY

Thanks for all the help. Got it out. Used acatone and trans fluid, to desolve the crud and was able to pull the guide down and remove the clip. Sorry I have not been around here lately. Been laid up with recovering from surgery. Did a 1915 T touring last winter. Took The 35Cabriolet out last Sat. Shifting With My right toe. Frank

Frank, good to see you're back. I was wondering where you had been. Hope you're doing better.
Seth

[FRANK PKNY]

Thanks Seth,
I'm doing good, had an accident putting the plow on my dump truck and tore the ligament off my shoulder, been 5 weeks in a soft cast one more to go then I can start doing light work with it. Hell to get old but better than the altertantive! Did you get your spare tire mount sorted out? I have the info you need in my hard records if you need it. Frank

[Seth Swoboda]

Frank,

Yes we have the spare tire mount figured out and on the truck. We are nearly done, just the small details now. Can't wait to drive it soon. Glad to see you back and hope you get well soon. Those shoulder injurys take lots of time to heal. What are you going to put that 8ba engine in?

[FRANK PKNY]

It's in a 53 Convertable that belongs to a friend. He baught it last year the engine was rebuilt by unkown party. One valve was not seated , had a miss with real low compression, did a blow down test and found the exhaust valve leaking. Will try to grind it in by lappng.

[Mike51Merc]

Originally Posted by FRANK PKNY

It's in a 53 Convertable that belongs to a friend. He baught it last year the engine was rebuilt by unkown party. One valve was not seated , had a miss with real low compression, did a blow down test and found the exhaust valve leaking. Will try to grind it in by lappng.

Make sure you examine the valve seat for cracks.

[Big Red 51]

Frank, Just curious, was the engine an EAB or an 8BA? I looked at 10 '53s last year and 75% of them had 8BAs rather than the EAB. Someone told me that in some plants they were using 8BAs rather than EAB because they had so many.
Don

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Originally Posted by Big Red 51

Frank, Just curious, was the engine an EAB or an 8BA? I looked at 10 '53s last year and 75% of them had 8BAs rather than the EAB. Someone told me that in some plants they were using 8BAs rather than EAB because they had so many.
Don

What's the differance from an 8BA and a EAB block? Walt

[Big Red 51]

The EAB is rated at 110 HP and has a slightly different Camshaft which has a smaller diameter requiring a longer tappet. They were standard for 1952 and 1953. As I mentioned, someone told me Ford used the 8BA in some cases into '52 and '53. I think most 8BAs you find in '52 and '53 bodies were most likely replacements.
Don

[FRANK PKNY]

Big Red I will look this weekend , I am working on it Sat. Frank