|
|||||||
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 74
|
So I re-installed the engine in my 41 COE. I can't seem to find a decent picture of the engine mounts. Does the large flat washer sit on top of the large rubber engine isolator with the steel mount on top of that? And a smaller washer and nut on top of the engine mount? This is how I see the engine not settling in on the rubber.
I can't find any info about the trans mount either. There was a roached out piece of rubber between the trans and the crossmember. Didn't look factory. Does the trans need isolated with rubber as well? Thanks in advance, Chris |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 258
|
Sorry, Chris...as you know, my truck's in storage and I can't see it or take pictures. I can guess but you don't need that.
Hopefully, the COE mounts are the same as the other trucks and someone will chime in. COE Dan |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: upstate SC
Posts: 3,006
|
rear mount is actually a block of rubber that sort of slips down in the cross member under the rear of the trans and is very hard to get out, read almost impossible. I found a new one and had to use a hydraulic jack arrangement to get it in. I would try Specialized in Tx, Southside Obsolete in MN or Joblot in NY for a new one. I saw the picture in another post, engine in and looking good.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | ||
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 74
|
Quote:
Quote:
The engine mounts are still giving me fits. The big flatwasher is bottoming out on the collar of the bolt. I'm not even close to getting a cotter pin in the castle nut. |
||
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: upstate SC
Posts: 3,006
|
the rear mount is actually the same as my 41 3/4 ton, the 38 has an enclosed driveline but about the same. The mount block has two "pipes" thru it to sort of help hold up the trans mount and using a top isolator will probably work OK, just do not go too thick as it will alter the driveshaft geometry. So you like repro motor mounts, seems like something so easy should be done right, HUH! Can you pull out one of the new bolts and compare it to an old one? Maybe get some one to turn down the shoulder on the new bolt so it will fit.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 74
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
I'll work my majic on the engine mount bolt. The new ones are identical to the originals regarding total length. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: upstate SC
Posts: 3,006
|
what about thread length? shoulder length?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 74
|
The new bolts have a tapered shoulder and the originals had an abrupt shoulder. I used the original bolts with the new rubber and it worked pretty well. We'll see how it works when the engine has some load.
|
|
|
|
![]() |
|
|
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|