Engine weld good or bad idea

[C26Pinelake]

I recently bought a Model A that was stored with no antifreeze. The head and the engine block cracked. My mechanic says replace the head and weld the engine. Is an engine weld a good or bad idea. Will it last or is it temporary ?
Need answers quick please.
Thanks Wayne

[V4F]

its as good as the welder . also depends on where it cracked ............... steve

[Dave72dt]

Done correctly welding a block is a permanent repair. It can and will distort the block a bit so line bore is usually needed.

[C26Pinelake]

the crack is at the top of the block near the head. Are block welds common ?
Thanks

[Dave72dt]

There's a company in Nevada, Iowa that specializes in crack repair. Believe it's called Hadley Motorsports.

[glenn in camino]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I've stiched a few blocks together with overlapping tapered pins. It worked good.

[Gumpy]

Originally Posted by steve norcal

its as good as the welder . also depends on where it cracked ............... steve

I agree...If it were me i would get three opionions from people whom specialize in block repair.....but I wouldn't hesitate to having it fixedmay give you 80,000 miles and save you some money!!

[Mike V. Florida]

Is it number matching block? If yes get it stiched, if no find another block.

The reason I'd find another is the cost involved for a block that means nothing in the restoration of the car.

[MALAK]

Personally I prefer the stitching pins method as it doesn't add stress to the cast iron. http://www.locknstitch.com/

[Sparky]

Originally Posted by glenn in camino

I've stiched a few blocks together with overlapping tapered pins. It worked good.

Is this something the home mechanic can do? Where do you get the pins and special bits?

[MALAK]

Originally Posted by Sparky

Is this something the home mechanic can do? Where do you get the pins and special bits?

Check out the web site I posted. They manufacture and sell the pin/kits and have some great info/vids/pics. The initial cost would be higher than a simple weld because you'd have to buy the tooling but, IMO, the repair is better for reasons explained on the web site. But then you'd have the tooling to do any other cast iron repairs. The pins aren't all that expensive. And YES a good home mechanic could do stitching, it's not much more than drilling/tapping and knowing which pins to use.

[tmiller6]

I have a T block that has a water jacket crack. A pro in the hobby advised me to place a head on the block and torque it prior to stitching the block's crack. He says this will allow the stitching to be less prone to weeping. It made sense to me.

[Tom Wesenberg]

How big is the crack. I've read several times of people having good results using JB weld also.

[Frank Miller]

If you can find someone with experience stitching the cracks go for it. JB weld might work also. Find out how good a running motor it is. This will determine how much money you want to put into repairing the block. I rule out welding because you have to heat the block to properly weld it which makes things more complicated.

[kenparker]

I just read several pages of the "locknstitch" website. Thats something I might want to try. I, too, have a cracked block that needs repair. Two inch crack above the water inlet. Everybody needs another project.

MALAK, That's a cool extended cab pickup in your avatar. Again anothr one of my "project" ideas. ken

[norson]

Read though several of the stitching sections And it looks like this could work on a couple of "B" blocks I have. The are cracked around the center exhaust valves. Has anyone tried this? Doesn't look like they are cracked in the seat. Thanks for any Ideas on this repair. Norm Henderson

[sturgis 39]

A friend said Perma tex makes a block sealer. It pours like water. There is less grinding required when grinding out the crack. He has never used the stuff and I have not either.

[eagle]

I rode in a Pietenpol airplane that was built in the 30s by the original designer, Bernard Pietenpol. The block had a 8 inch crack that had been "fixed" many times. The last time it had been "fixed" with JB weld, but before the flight we were looking at about 3 or 4 drops a minute leak. Kind of a "check the fuel and fill the water" type situation. I didn't have a problem going up in it. Most fun I've ever had, what could be better than a flying Model A? Originally the Pietenpol was designed for a T engine. Absolutely fly like a dream...

[callcoy]

Norm Post #16
I recently had to fix my "B" block #3 between the intake and exhaust. I pressured tested the block and found the exhaust seat insert was leaking from under. I bought the block without testing it, came with new babbit mains, rods, new hung pistons and rings. I did notice that the exhaust seat had been replaced and was oversize, thought I had a good engine till I ran the test. I had to pull both inserts and you could see the crack and hole under the exhaust. Had a professional look at it, who said he could weld it, but I said that would screw up the fresh bores and main bearings, he agreed. Because of the location he said that stitching was not the best thing for that location, so we spent 5 1/2 hours pinning the area. Then pressure sealed the block for 24 hours. I had super over sized seat inserts made and installed them, I knew I had a crack between the inserts to began with, we stitched the crack and pressurized it up to 40 psi and it is now good. I couldn't throw away the block, bearings and etc. so I had no choice but to salvage it.

[Robert]

JB weld works fine-- to a point. Personal experience with this type repair has been on the water jacket below the water pump. I disclosed the repair when I sold the car several years ago. I saw the car this summer-still running fine-no water leaks.