Fire Extinguisher

[1931 flamingo]

Befor4e i spend half a day wasting time looking for one. What type/size are in your cars? Where did you purchase? Thanks guys.
Paul in CT

[Bob-A]

Paul,

I get my fire extingushers at Wal-Mart in the Marine/boater section. They are made by "Kidde" and are aluminum bodied. Rated at 10-B:C (what ever that means?) and can be used on liquid or electrical fires. They are approx. 14" long & 3" in diameter. It weights around 4 lbs. and is my best buddy when I'm driving one of my cars: i.e. right beside me ready to rock n' roll if needed!

When I was in a local antique car club back in my high school days. One of our members lost a unique (and very expensive) Rolls Royce to a fire.
The guy stated he could have saved the car if he only had had a fire extingusher!

They are the first thing I get for a car when I buy one.

Bob-A

[2manycars]

I got mine at ACE hardware. I have one in every car and truck I own. I was in a parade several years ago with my roadster, and the battery hold down shorted out on the negative cable and the battery started on fire. I had an extinguisher under the seat and put the fire out. Good thing I had the extinguisher, as the fire dept, who was also in the parade, went by throwing candy, oblivious to the fire in the car.

[29restorod]

Boy,this post just reminded me I need a fire extinguisher for my A. Of all the cars I own,the A is the one most likely to catch fire.

[Clem Clement]

Kidde is an excellent brand. Be sure you sto it safely. It can be a weapon of destruction in a crash. Mine is bungeed in a expandable truck rack on the running board. I keep a gallon of water there and some oil. I can reach the extinguisher quickly and others car see it easily. Be sure to check the gauge monthy for full pressure. Also familarize yourself with the operating instructions.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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I usually carry a two litter bottle of water for drinking, or for someone's radiator if need be. I'd also use it for a fire if need be. If the water can't put the fire out, then go to the much more messy dry chemical.

BTW, have you noticed how many more roadside burn marks are out there since the advent of ethanol, which eats rubber parts. It disintegrated the rubber fuel connection from the tank to the steel line on my 1949 Chevy truck, and I lost a full tank of gas. It also ate the rubber fuel line to the carb on my Dodge Omni, and I had a small engine fire when the gas sprayed onto the hot exhaust.

[Jim Brierley]

The most common, and probably the best, extinguishers are dry-powder. They work really well but leave somewhat of a mess, a minor inconvenience compared to a burned-down car. CO-2 works well too, and leaves no mess.

[Clem Clement]

Yes, I have noticed theburns. Hope no one was hurt. We just finished a 7400 mile trip across the US. Lots of burn marks.
In one state they were serving up 85.5 gas. Any idea what that is? It was more expensive than 87 octane.

[cpl624]

Clem.

85 is 85% ethanol 15% real gasoline. Usually cheaper here in the mid-west than pure gasoline, but gets worse mileage and power. In the end it usually works out as a wash for overall savings in newer cars.

[Louis]

I use one made by Kidde, it's A B C Trash/Liquids/ Elect. Got it at wal-mart.
It fits great in my coupe under the seat on the pass. side, easy to get to, I did not use the mount that came with it, you really dont need one as it does not move around.
I keep one in the kitchen, the garage, and one in the "A" model.

[The Hot Rod Grille]

The problem with the "Kidde" fire extinguishers are that they are a "dry chemical" type. They make a terrible mess when used and the powder is extremely corrosive to most metal surfaces. Spend the extra money and buy a "HalGuard" type (the new version of Halon). It is a gas that will starve the oxygen from the fire and leave no residue (that's why they are used for fires involving computers and electronics). Fire protection for your prized possession is not the place to be cheap! A 2.5 lb will run you $160 and a 5 lb will be $260 at Summitracing.com. Isn't your car worth that much?

Jim

[SSsssteamer]

I carry Halon fire extinguishers in all of my cars. No mess, and they can be used over and over again.

[Jason in TX]

I'll attest to the mess that the Kidde extinguisher made, but it just vacuumed right up and everything was fine. It also put out my smoldering wiring between the gas tank and the firewall. I'll take a little messy powder over an extra crispy Model A.

[John S]

WOW

[Clem Clement]

Does'nt Halon mess with your lungs or is that the old stuff?

[Jason in TX]

Halon gas is a chemical compound that is often used in fire suppression systems. While several different types of halon have been developed since this product was first invented, many were dangerous or deadly to humans. Since the late 20th century, two safer types of halon have replaced earlier versions. These include the liquefied type 1211 and type 1301 halon gas. Both are known by the scientific name bromotrifluoromethane.

Fire requires oxygen, heat and a source of fuel in order to burn. Some early halon gas products would cut off the oxygen supply in a room in order to suppress a fire. While this was an effective way to extinguish a fire, it could also kill any people who were in the room at the time. Newer halon systems simply prevent oxygen from reacting with a fuel source to create a fire, making them much safer for occupants.

The primary benefit to halon gas is its ability to quickly extinguish a fire without damaging items within the room. It is non-conductive, non-volatile, and leaves no residue once the fire has been suppressed. This makes halon a popular choice for computer labs, museums and libraries. It is also an effective choice for protecting electrical equipment, and is often used in boats and airplanes. Halon gas may be used in an overhead fire suppression systems or in a chemical fire extinguisher.

While the two currently used types of halon gas are not generally considered deadly, they can still produce toxic by-products as they work to extinguish a fire. Occupants in a room should exit quickly when a halon system is activated, and should not re-enter until all gas fumes have dissipated. It is also important to recharge the system once it has been activated to ensure continuous protection against fire.

The Montreal Protocol of 1987 established halon gas as an environmental risk, along with many other types of refrigerants and chemicals that are linked to ozone depletion. In accordance with this Protocol, the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) banned production of new halon products starting in 1994. Those with existing systems are still permitted to use halon, and existing supplies are carefully monitored to provide for maintenance and refills as needed. All halon must be recycled in accordance with EPA guidelines to minimize adverse effects on the environment. According to the EPA, current supplies are expected to last at least through 2030.

Source: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-halon-gas.htm

[Charlie Stephens]

My advice would be to buy a couple of the dry chemical type so you have them where you need them (garage, car, kitchen). One Halon in the car isn't much good if the fire is somewhere else. I am not rich enough to afford several Halon extinguishers. I had an interesting experience with the dry chemical type. I had them in the car to give away as Christmas presents and passed a car burning on the side of the freeway. It was well engulfed but a couple of them put out the fire. If the owner had one in the car he could have saved it while the fire was small.

Charlie Stephens

[bobpo]

To JASON in Texas,

All I can think of to say in response to your post on this subject is that the old addage; A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words". AND, you have proven it extremely well.

I read printed stuff all the time and love doing it. BUT, when I see something like this latest post of your's, I have to say that Thank God there are folks out there today (such as yourself) who have mastered the techique of putting it into words and Pictures.

I am a writer for an International Magazine and I can only WISH that I could have put it better myself. SIR, you should be a "writer" (if you ain't already.....)

Thanks for the photos and the text to put it "right out there". Could not have done it better...................

[bobpo]

OOPS, sorry Jason, I hadn't taken the time to check your BIO prior to my previous note above...................................

[eswanson]

Hey Guys, for what it is worth... A good ABC (the three basic types of fire rating for fire extinguishers) will do good on an electrical or internal (non-Fuel based) fire. Water is a bad idea, you need a ton and if it is small you may still have electricity flowing. The only bad deal will be if your fuel catches on fire, then you want a fire department with lots of water and lots of foam to sit on top of your fuel and smother it out. I volunteer as a fire fighter and just put out at 2002 Beetle two days ago, got to love the foam.

Eric