Condenser Life w/ the Nu-Rex upper plate

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by dmaxweb

Which post of the coil are these referring to?

It needs to be the primary post that leads to the switch, which then leads to the points. An easy way to determin which post that is would be to stop the engine with the points closed and key on, then touch a test light to each terminal, and the one that doesn't light the test light is the one which leads to the points, and gets the condenser connected to it.

[Purdy Swoft]

The post to connect the modern condenser pigtail to is the switch side of the coil. If original type wiring harness with color coded wire is used it will be the red wire. A lot of the non original type coil brackets will have a small hole in the center, right over the coil itself for mounting a condenser. It is very easy to mount the condenserin this way, it is much easier than replacing an original. The modern condensers don't seem to last very long if mounted under the dist. cap, where they can get no cooling air.

A lot has been said about the wireless lower plate for the so called modern points. It was obvious to me that this plate would cause shorting problems against the dist. housing. The wireless lower plate that is designed for use with original points is a much better idea, this setup uses an acorn nut that contacts the points to a special lower plate. There is nothing to fail about this setup and I have used it for years.

The distributor heat shield that was popular a few years ago is in my opinion a bad idea. The reason is, if you need to remove the distributor, for whatever reason, you will have to loosen two head nuts and remove the plate to access the set screw that holds the dist. to the head. Loosening head nuts will run the risk of coolant entering the crankcase.

[ldj1002]

Installing the condenser by the coil do you remove the one in the distributor? What condenser would you use that is available at FLAPS?

[RonC]

Originally Posted by ldj1002

Installing the condenser by the coil do you remove the one in the distributor? What condenser would you use that is available at FLAPS?

Yes, remove the original first. You can pull the guts out and replace the empty shell for looks.

The original condenser was rated at .3 Micofareds tested at 540 DC volts. Some ohmeters can read Micofareds and you could test a modern condenser to see if it's with spec.

[RonC]

Originally Posted by dmaxweb

Which post of the coil are these referring to?

the post that contains the wire that leads to the ignition switch. That wire makes it's way through the switch into the distributer

[Purdy Swoft]

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Yes, I remove the the condenser in the distributor. I use the condenser that is used in the so called modern points setup. I think tha the condenser used in this set up is Ford V8 1958 through the last year that Ford used points and condenser, I think 58 through 75

[RonC]

Having the wrong condenser (capacitance) to high or to low will transfer metal from one point surface to the other. I think most condensers are around .26 Microfareds so you shouldn't have a problem.