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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lyman,ME.
Posts: 3,024
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A friend of mine recently bought a decent 39 coupe. The motor has been changed to the later 59 AB style.Doing the first oil change, he found a lot of sludge in the pan through the drain plug hole. He dropped the pan to clean it out. After reinstalling it, he has an oil leak. He decided to pull the motor, and clean the intake valley and timing cover to get all the sludge out of the motor and address the rear leak. When he had the pan off, I noticed the tube wasn’t in the rear main bearing cap. I mentioned it, but he got ahead of me and got the pan back on again before we did any research about the tube.
I’ve researched past threads this morning, and the only definitive answer is on a 21 stud earlier motor. so my question is, is taking the pan back off and getting a tube in that bearing cap important. I’m trying to help my friend prevent an oil leak and to end up pulling the motor again. We finally got good weather in Maine and he’d like to drive his car…….Thanks!………Mark
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I'm thinkin' about crankin' My ragged ol' truck up and haulin' myself into town. Billy Joe Shaver…RIP |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: harpursville ny
Posts: 1,172
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I think that was eliminated on later engines, a couple of 39 engines I had didn’t have them. May not be the source of the leak.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,906
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I do not believe he should have any issues - given the later rope-type seals of the 59AB. Of course, this assumes his rear-main seal is in good shape and doing its job.
Given that he dropped the pan and reinstalled it and NOW has an oil leak, the most likely cause is that a gasket has slipped or was installed wrong (probably the cork one on the top of the rear-main cap). He will need to pull the pan again, make sure everything is squeaky clean, use a set of new gaskets and use a gasket sealer to make sure the gaskets are correctly located and will STICK where they are supposed to be. I use something called 'Gaskacinch' (sp?) - which Edelbrock and others sell. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lyman,ME.
Posts: 3,024
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Thanks guys!…he did have an issue with the pan gasket from putting it back on with the motor in the car. This time with the motor out and upside on an engine stand he had a better chance of getting the gasket right. My concern was the tube. Thanks again…Mark
__________________
I'm thinkin' about crankin' My ragged ol' truck up and haulin' myself into town. Billy Joe Shaver…RIP |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,132
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While you have it apart, I would replace the rope seal as well. On my last build, I made the mistake of using a Speedway oil pump, which proved to be inferior. After I determined what the problem was ,I replaced it with a good used Ford pump with a new relief spring. That solved the oil pressure problem, but I ended up with a slight oil leak from the rear main. Even though this was a fresh build, I used a new pan gasket, but decided to go with the existing seal. This change was done on an engine stand, and I was careful with the installation, I still had that slight leak. If I had to do it again, I would replace the rope seal (at least the bottom half). The way everything goes together down there, I think it may be a "one time" deal.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lyman,ME.
Posts: 3,024
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__________________
I'm thinkin' about crankin' My ragged ol' truck up and haulin' myself into town. Billy Joe Shaver…RIP |
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