Original 1932 frame and repo body

[alchemy]

They are not using an original 32 frame to build their bodies on, so I don’t think they should be guaranteeing it will fit an original frame.

[glennpm]

Looks like a 32 frame to me.

The photo is not close enough for me to see what is going on with their floor to frame detail. Their floor could have worked if the body was placed correctly. Since they didn’t, I don’t see how you could fix it without cutting weld or spot welds. With that much effort, I would replace the floor with a correct reproduction as I mentioned above.

[alchemy]

Those are obviously repro rails.

[Harold Degand]

Originally Posted by glennpm

Looks like a 32 frame to me.

The photo is not close enough for me to see what is going on with their floor to frame detail. Their floor could have worked if the body was placed correctly. Since they didn’t, I don’t see how you could fix it without cutting weld or spot welds. With that much effort, I would replace the floor with a correct reproduction as I mentioned above.

I think you’re right glennpm.

Looking at the reportage, they put a support between the frame and the bottom of the quarterpannel. This one measure 3 1/2 in.
On my car, I have 4 1/2.

In the inside of the trunk, this shape shoudn’t be seeable.
On mine, we can see the top of it.

The whole body must go down on the floor.

Thank you everyone for your help. We’ve covered all the bases.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Harold Degand

I think you’re right glennpm.

Looking at the reportage, they put a support between the frame and the bottom of the quarterpannel. This one measure 3 1/2 in.
On my car, I have 4 1/2.

In the inside of the trunk, this shape shoudn’t be seeable.
On mine, we can see the top of it.

The whole body must go down on the floor.

Thank you everyone for your help. We’ve covered all the bases.

[glennpm]

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Originally Posted by Harold Degand

The whole body must go down on the floor.

Thank you everyone for your help. We’ve covered all the bases.

You're welcome and best of luck repairing it.

[HotRodmicky]

You get what you pay for…..
Did you expect brookville quality for that price you paid ?
Why didn’t you bought one in pieces and built it yourself?
After you solved the rear body situation( you need to cut everything loose up to
The b pillar and then reattach everything)) what do you do about the soft body lines ( stampings) ?
Still will look like a fiberglass body.
All in all known problems here in Europe for years for the body.

Cry one’s buy brookville..

[Harold Degand]

Originally Posted by HotRodmicky

You get what you pay for…..
Did you expect brookville quality for that price you paid ?
Why didn’t you bought one in pieces and built it yourself?
After you solved the rear body situation( you need to cut everything loose up to
The b pillar and then reattach everything)) what do you do about the soft body lines ( stampings) ?
Still will look like a fiberglass body.
All in all known problems here in Europe for years for the body.

Cry one’s buy brookville..

I knew when I bought it, it will not be so nice as a Brookville.

The main reason I didn’t build by myself was to save time and use their experience in building bodies.

A lot of guys are satisfied with the quality of the swedish bodies.
Mine as a manufacturing issue.
I’m here to find out what was the problem and how to solve it.

When you pay someone, don’t you expect the job is done correctly ? I think so.

[JocarHotRods]

Simon from JOCAR here. To be transparent, I'm not here to contribute much more to solving this because I have already done a lot of it over email, and I did for a long time consider staying out of this but there are some things here that are just too blatantly wrong that I can't really choose not to comment. I will spend some time clarifying some things and explain how we build the bodies in the end, but first I want to comment on some statements:

Originally Posted by Harold Degand

I don’t know what kind of jig they use to build those bodies.
Several bodies owners reported the same issue.

This is false and it changes the entire premise of the thread. Literally the whole first paragraph of the last mail I sent you over a year ago is spent explaining exactly how we make the bodies. This alone makes me assume you're not here to find a solution, but rather just to badmouth. People would have a much easier time helping you if you were truthful about this.

Originally Posted by Harold Degand

Here are few pics I found of Swedish bodies on original frames.
Some cars have a big gap, some not.
The most signifiant is the last one.

We have shipped way over 300, maybe closer to 400 Roadster bodies so far, and the only complaints we have had - and I mean only - has been that the top of the inner door is not folded, but welded in place so that you can't fit original door panels. That this gap is a "known problem" is to be completely honest with you something I have never heard anyone mention to us. With this in mind I think that's a harsh claim to make, and I would appreciate if you could clarify how these bodies were assembled and on what frames and by whom. If you do not want to go public with this information you are more than welcome to send me a PM or a mail with it. I ask because I do not believe this to be true at all.

And yes, sure, if you count that the floor is not original we have had comments about that as well. However, we offered the option of an original floor from Brookville to make up for this, and we had one lying around here for years because no one wanted to pay extra for it. So we know for sure that the non-original style floor is a non-issue.

Originally Posted by HotRodmicky

You get what you pay for…..
Did you expect brookville quality for that price you paid ?
Why didn’t you bought one in pieces and built it yourself?
After you solved the rear body situation( you need to cut everything loose up to
The b pillar and then reattach everything)) what do you do about the soft body lines ( stampings) ?
Still will look like a fiberglass body.
All in all known problems here in Europe for years for the body.

Cry one’s buy brookville..

The first tools were made in prototype tooling (I'm not sure of the exact English term; in Swedish it's “plast-grus-verktyg”), those of course had weak bead lines as this was not intended to be done in more than maximum 50 sets. After those 50-something kits new tools were made in “real” materials. Can you really say that you have compared one of our panels from say, the last decade or so, with a Brookville one when you make claims like that? Or is it just assumptions based on really, really old panels?


For those interested; our bodies are all built on a frame, there is no part of the floor assembly that’s built in a jig or similar, but on an actual frame. If something would differ from an original frame then it would be the same on all bodies we build, but variance on more than a few mm is just impossible. HOWEVER, as original frames and some repo frames can have minor differences on them we prefer to build the bodies directly on the frame that they are intended to be used on. So IF there are bodies with odd measurements out there they are either assembled with our panels, or they have been built on a frame that is not ours to fit that exact car. If this is done and the body is sold at a later stage then I do obviously not have any control over what the guy who sells it says. I don't believe this to be common though.

About the actual gap height: we build our bodies with a gap above the tank of about 25mm assuming a Tanks Inc tank is used. This is to make sure there's enough space between for the pickup tube assembly. A majority of projects we're involved in uses Tanks Inc's tanks so it's a natural adjustment we made basically from the start. To be completely honest I do not know what the original height should be, we started to make the bodies this way ages ago and the original height something we have not cared about after that.

Harold, if you actually want this solved you are more than welcome to deliver the frame and body to us and we'll adjust the frame and fit the body to it - we have the expertise to do so and it's really nothing odd or hard for us.

And as a final word, for those of you who feel offended by my harsh tone in this post; it makes me really sad when people cannot appreciate that there is a company here in EU that actually goes through all the effort to make steel bodies and have provided hundreds of people with the possibility to build a new steel -32. You can speak with basically any of our customers about how we handle issues here, when we make mistakes - and we do - we do our absolute best to own up to them. But this nonsense is not one of them.

[alchemy]

Always nice to hear both sides. As he said, deliver the body and your frame to Jocar and they will fix the issue. Easy peasy.

[Harold Degand]

I really apologies to the whole Barn community for what’s going on here.

No more to say.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by Harold Degand

I really apologies to the whole Barn community for what’s going on here.

No more to say.

Harold, no reason to apologize,. This forum is here to help.

I too would take everything to the fabricator with your gas tank and frame and tell him what you want for a gap. JocarHotRods mentions setting the gap at about 25mm but from your photo, you have around 55mm, too great of course. If you decide to do nothing, you'll wish you had before you assembled and painted. Now is the time to repair it.

[Harold Degand]

Yes, I do apologies because the situation is becoming critical.
People are calling me a liar, and I can’t stand that. I didn’t make any of it up.

[Mart]

Just an observation but My stock bodied 32 sedan on a stock frame with a stock tank has a lot less than 25mm clearance between the rear part of the body and the tank. I'm not saying my frame is right as I had to repair it, but there must exist a correct dimension for the rear of the body above the tank, or more importantly the rear of the body above the frame horns.
Mart.

[Randy in ca]

On the front edge of the frame horn covers there are 2 holes for the installation of a couple of small rubber bumpers to cushion the clearance between the frame horn cover (essentially the frame) and the body. Unless I'm missing something, this should indicate whether or not things are anywhere close to where they were intended to be, should it not?

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