The Ford Barn

Marshall V. Daut · 05-04-2026, 08:01 AM

Ticking noise like that usually indicates a blown exhaust manifold gasket. This is irritating, but it won't affect the misfiring and coughing condition. Try a little 3-n-1 oil in the distributor, too. The bushings may be getting dry, which will cause a chirping sound.

As to the lack of power and misfiring, put a glove on your left hand and while the engine is running, cup your hand over the carb's intake throat to the point that the engine almost wants to die - but not quite. With your right hand, rev the engine up via the carb's throttle arm a number of times. Cup your hand during this procedure so that the carb is able to draw in just enough air to keep running, but is almost on the verge of dying. This causes greater suction inside the carb and if there is a small piece of junk caught in a jet, this extra pressure will draw it through. Really rev hard. The reason you are wearing a glove is because the carb might backfire and you want your hand protected from the flame. After revving the engine a few times, remove your left hand from the back of the carb and rev the engine up naturally. If it still stumbles, most likely a clogged jet was not at fault.

Since you don't know the full history of this car's restoration, a previous owner may not have properly cleaned out the gas tank. Rust, gunk and bits of old gas gauge cork float collect on the bottom of the tank and eventually find their way into the on/off valve, which is the lowest place on the gas tank (pre-late 1931). To check whether that on/off valve is clogged - which slows fuel flow to the carb under power demands, but not during idling - turn off the fuel, remove the gas cap, loosen the two fuel line brass fittings and disconnect the line at the carburetor. Revolve the fuel line 180 degrees so that it is standing up straight and keep it that way by tightening the brass fitting in the sediment bowl. ADDED: I forgot to mention that just before you blow into the fuel line, you must turn the gas back on so that the forced air will go back up into the tank. Because the fuel line is straight up, no fuel will run out. Now put the open end of the fuel line in your mouth and blow as hard as you can into the end of the fuel line. You should initially meet with resistance, but then there will be a loud "WHOOSH!" from inside the gas tank, followed by gurgling. Keep blowing a few times before putting everything back together again. Doing this blows the congealed gunk inside the on/off valve back into the fuel supply. The engine will run better now at speed and have its power back. Of course, until the gas tank is cleaned properly, this gunk will eventually collect in the on/off valve again. Keep the tank fairly full to disperse the gunk so that it can't concentrate in a lower fuel level.

If these suggestions don't help, the problem is most likely not fuel or carb related. Then concentrate on the electrical and ignition systems.
Marshall

05-04-2026, 08:01 AM	#4
Marshall V. Daut Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Davenport, Iowa Posts: 2,899	Re: I'm Outta Touch, I'm Outta Time Ticking noise like that usually indicates a blown exhaust manifold gasket. This is irritating, but it won't affect the misfiring and coughing condition. Try a little 3-n-1 oil in the distributor, too. The bushings may be getting dry, which will cause a chirping sound. As to the lack of power and misfiring, put a glove on your left hand and while the engine is running, cup your hand over the carb's intake throat to the point that the engine almost wants to die - but not quite. With your right hand, rev the engine up via the carb's throttle arm a number of times. Cup your hand during this procedure so that the carb is able to draw in just enough air to keep running, but is almost on the verge of dying. This causes greater suction inside the carb and if there is a small piece of junk caught in a jet, this extra pressure will draw it through. Really rev hard. The reason you are wearing a glove is because the carb might backfire and you want your hand protected from the flame. After revving the engine a few times, remove your left hand from the back of the carb and rev the engine up naturally. If it still stumbles, most likely a clogged jet was not at fault. Since you don't know the full history of this car's restoration, a previous owner may not have properly cleaned out the gas tank. Rust, gunk and bits of old gas gauge cork float collect on the bottom of the tank and eventually find their way into the on/off valve, which is the lowest place on the gas tank (pre-late 1931). To check whether that on/off valve is clogged - which slows fuel flow to the carb under power demands, but not during idling - turn off the fuel, remove the gas cap, loosen the two fuel line brass fittings and disconnect the line at the carburetor. Revolve the fuel line 180 degrees so that it is standing up straight and keep it that way by tightening the brass fitting in the sediment bowl. ADDED: I forgot to mention that just before you blow into the fuel line, you must turn the gas back on so that the forced air will go back up into the tank. Because the fuel line is straight up, no fuel will run out. Now put the open end of the fuel line in your mouth and blow as hard as you can into the end of the fuel line. You should initially meet with resistance, but then there will be a loud "WHOOSH!" from inside the gas tank, followed by gurgling. Keep blowing a few times before putting everything back together again. Doing this blows the congealed gunk inside the on/off valve back into the fuel supply. The engine will run better now at speed and have its power back. Of course, until the gas tank is cleaned properly, this gunk will eventually collect in the on/off valve again. Keep the tank fairly full to disperse the gunk so that it can't concentrate in a lower fuel level. If these suggestions don't help, the problem is most likely not fuel or carb related. Then concentrate on the electrical and ignition systems. Marshall Last edited by Marshall V. Daut; 05-04-2026 at 01:22 PM.