|
|||||||
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2025
Location: The Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 195
|
Having had the floorboards out a time or three whilst recently speedometer cabling, I was wondering how to repair the 12-24 threads for the floorboard screws. Several of mine are barely there. A couple appear to have been beaten into submission with a body dolly and a ball-pein hammer (and then badly re-tapped). It appears to me that floorboard removal/replacement is one of those jobs that just never end. I'd like to have screws that actually work (the screws are actually fine, and I have a full set of washers too).
I suppose there is a "correct" way and...everything else. Having done my time with sheet metal, I was thinking it should be a good place for a rivnut. McMaster-Carr sells a bag of 10, 12-24 rivnuts for ~$8. I actually think I have a rivnut tool around here somewhere...but surely not specific for 12-24. Are rivnuts taboo? Should I use acupuncture? Chair Tai Chi? Cinnamon and vinegar?
__________________
'31 Ford Deluxe Coupe "The Green Hornet" |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cow Hampshire
Posts: 5,014
|
Heli-coil inserts.
Ebay search Helicoil KIT 12-24 The kit including the tap and an insertion wrench is a little pricey at $38.67 plus ship. But the helicoil "spirals" are sold separately pack of 12 for $10.96 free ship. You should look around both Ebay and Amazon. You may find a better deal. Doing helicoil is one of those things I LIKE to do. Almost flawless - as long as you don't break off the tap. Joe K
__________________
Shudda kept the horse. |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Sagle, Idaho
Posts: 417
|
I replaced mine with metric screws slightly larger than existing size. Tapped new threads Therefore only had to buy screws and tap. Pretty cheap and not too much work
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2025
Location: The Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 195
|
Quote:
__________________
'31 Ford Deluxe Coupe "The Green Hornet" |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Signal Mtn, TN (SE TN)
Posts: 2,672
|
Never done it……re-tap to 1/4-20??
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 7,293
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 04-28-2026 at 04:38 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 345
|
You could replace the D nuts and order a set original screws from one of the suppliers. Snyders or Berts should have the D nuts . It shouldn't be to hard to remove the bad ones and all you have to do is pean the new ones to hold them in place .
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 6,855
|
Instead of going all the way to 1/4 screws, you could go to 14-24 screws which are slightly smaller.
__________________
A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 8,434
|
Even if your are chasing originality/judging, do the judges even look at those threads? I very much doubt it. My cars are drivers so none of that matters a skerrick. I put a 1/4" X 20 tap in the battery drill and ran it through the old holes. Those weird "gauge" screw sizes puzzle me and 1/4" W is (or was) readily available. It was a no brainer for me. As for the washers, I took a few ordinary 1/4" washers and with one whack from a hammer, made them conical. The floor boards didn't complain!
__________________
When all is said and done, more is said than done. That's why we judge people on what they do, not what they say. I sometimes wonder what happened to the people who asked me for directions. If I am not in trouble, I've done something wrong. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 713
|
I bought a set of floorboard screws and they fell into place with no turning required. Maybe one grabbed a thread. It seems the original D-nuts were wallowed out. So this thread could prove useful.
Now I have to look up the original meaning of skerrick.
__________________
David in San Antonio Late ‘30 Deluxe "Wretched Roadster" 1931 Slant Windshield Fordor “Earl Gray” Alamo A’s Club |
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 2,068
|
I rather like Oldgearz solution in post #3
__________________
Dave / Lincoln Nebraska |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Young Harris, GA
Posts: 2,093
|
I did a helicoil on a couple and I was not impressed. There is nothing there to hold the coil in place. It wants to screw all the way through as you install the floorboard screw. I tried a drop of thread lock but it didn’t hold.
Tapping to a larger size screw works. Or replace the d-nut before you paint.
__________________
Jim Cannon Former MAFCA Technical Director ![]() "Have a Model A day!" |
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 6,076
|
Skerrick = smidge
__________________
If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
|
|
|
|
|
#14 | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2025
Location: The Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 195
|
Quote:
I would not have an issue with going to a larger fastener, such as 1/4", if I had to. My Coupe isn't and won't be a show car, even though I prefer keeping it as "stock" as I can. I try to not use obviously modern drive types, such as Phillips but I might make an exception for heavy-use pieces like the floorboards. The screws are hidden under the carpet anyway.
__________________
'31 Ford Deluxe Coupe "The Green Hornet" Last edited by Trapdoor2; 04-29-2026 at 10:46 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Erie Pa
Posts: 1,114
|
Hello, the d nuts with 12-24 threads are also available from Snyders, I just drilled out the original stripped out ones and replaced them with the d nuts, penning them over to hold them in the body , also had to do this on some of the cowl nuts that hold gas tank. The 12-24 threads are rarely used anymore, normally go from 10-32 to 1/4 -20 or 24 , more recently metric. 6 mm might be used to retap the existing threads.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#16 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,599
|
Time-sert has a 12-24 kit that may work better than a Helicoil.
https://time-serts.com/store/12-24-thread-repair-kit/ |
|
|
|
![]() |
|
|
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|