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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 17
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Can anyone tell me if the body door catches on a 1931 roadster are held on with screws into the frame, or bolts with nuts. I'd like to take one off and shim it about 1/16 or so, but I'm concerned there's a nut on the inside that will fall off and drop and I'll have to take off the panel, etc. Thanks in advance for any help.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bismarck ND
Posts: 1,295
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I am quite certain that there is a tapped metal bar that is held captive by a metal cage. It has been a while since I had one apart, but I think I remember the captive strip, so you should be able to unscrew the latch and not lose the retainer. I think it can also be adjusted without losing the retainer.
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#3 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 17
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Thanks midgetracer.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Erie Pa
Posts: 1,116
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Hello, the door latch that fastens to the inner door post , is held on with 1/4 -28 screws into a tapping plate retained by a metal”cage’ spot welded to the inside of door post . The wood for upholstery tacking some what helps to hold the tap plate retained as it has a channel to fit around it. If you should use repro latches I found that they had to be spread to align with door locking latches. If you need pictures of these areas please let me know.
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 17
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Hi. Thanks much for responding. I don't have to replace the latches w repros. I just need to shim the existing ones out likely about 1/16" (maybe a washer) so that the door doesn't hit it. The door closes but rubs. Just loosening the screws a bit has eased the issue a bit. Pictures of the area would be a great help. I'm envisioning the plate and "cage" but a real photo would definitely be good. Again, many thanks for replying. -Tom
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,903
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Quote:
- Here's a picture of the in place strap that holds the threaded bar. - |
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#7 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 17
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That's so helpful, Randy. I totally get it now. Thanks everyone. Much appreciated.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta
Posts: 6,077
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You don't have to remove the latch, just loosen the fasteners holding the latch on, make the shim that you need, then notch it out from the holes to the edge, slide the shin into place and re-tighten the fasteners.
__________________
If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn! |
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#9 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 17
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I was thinking the same thing, katy. I'm going to ensure one screw is always holding that plate and perhaps use washers with a cutout (like a donut missing a bite) for shims. Thanks for replying.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Erie Pa
Posts: 1,116
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Hello again, if you are putting spacers between door latch and body ,as mentioned, loosen up the screws and remove one at a time. If the door gaps are uneven and you have door closing problems,check for wear on hinges,also may have to play “shim that body “ . Marco had an excellent post on that . Was some posts on Ford Barn about body shimming if needed. Roadster are somewhat flimsy if rubber shims are compressed or missing will effect door and hood alignment.
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#11 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 17
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Thanks again. I appreciate the extra info.
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