Fuel line question - UPDATE

[sconnors]

Put a new carburetor on my Modal A today and it’s leaking gas where the fuel line goes into the carburetor. Is this end supposed to have a flared end? When it is fully tightened I can pull the line off and when driving it’s vibrating loose.
Any help would be greatly appreciated

Ordered a new fuel line from Snyder's and it works like a charm! No leaks! My new carburetor is from the Carb Shed, GREAT folks to do business with!!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Yes, you needed a swaged ferrule on the end of the line to seat against.

[jw hash]

the gas line should extend at least 3/16" out of ferrule. if not, it will leak.

[mcgarrett]

Your fuel line should have a brass ball ferrule installed on the fuel line after you slip on the hex fitting:

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9362&cat=41707

For this set up to work properly, you need to have between 1/8" to 3/16" of fuel line protruding past the ball ferrule. Slip the assembled fuel line into the threaded opening of the carb and hold the fuel line in place while carefully tightening the brass hex fitting. By tightening the brass fitting, it compresses the ball ferrule around the fuel line to essentially clamp it in place so that it cannot pull free. I hope that makes sense.

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Yes, you needed a swaged ferrule on the end of the line to seat against.

Forgive me for probably asking a stupid question but is that something I can buy at an auto parts store or can I just buy a whole new fuel line?

[mcgarrett]

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No dumb questions here. Take your fuel line and print the page from the link I posted from Snyders to a real parts store like NAPA or an independent. They should be able to help you.

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by jw hash

the gas line should extend at least 3/16" out of ferrule. if not, it will leak.

It should extend NO MORE THAN 3/16" 1/8 is ideal. Any more and it could restrict the fuel flow.


Snyder's has a PDF on the installation - https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...structions.pdf

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by mcgarrett

Your fuel line should have a brass ball ferrule installed on the fuel line after you slip on the hex fitting:

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...9362&cat=41707

For this set up to work properly, you need to have between 1/8" to 3/16" of fuel line protruding past the ball ferrule. Slip the assembled fuel line into the threaded opening of the carb and hold the fuel line in place while carefully tightening the brass hex fitting. By tightening the brass fitting, it compresses the ball ferrule around the fuel line to essentially clamp it in place so that it cannot pull free. I hope that makes sense.

When I click on the Snyders link I get a Not Authorized page?

[sconnors]

Originally Posted by ModelA29

It should extend NO MORE THAN 3/16" 1/8 is ideal. Any more and it could restrict the fuel flow.


Snyder's has a PDF on the installation - https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...structions.pdf

Mine for some reason does not go through the fitting. I’ll try pushing it through tomorrow but I could get it through there

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by ModelA29

It should extend NO MORE THAN 3/16" 1/8 is ideal. Any more and it could restrict the fuel flow.


Snyder's has a PDF on the installation - https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/c...structions.pdf

Yes, as posted above, use this installation info found on Snyders website - very helpful.

[mcgarrett]

Originally Posted by sconnors

Mine for some reason does not go through the fitting. I’ll try pushing it through tomorrow but I could get it through there

Perhaps you need to de-bur the end of the fuel line slightly with a small file. The ball ferrule is a snug fit on the steel line to help it seal properly when the brass fitting is tightened down. It looks like you are installing the line on a Tillotson carb. Keep in mind the carb body is pot metal and take care to not over-tighten.

[Bob Bidonde]

That pot metal carburetor you are using may be the culprit. Its threads may be damaged or the carburetor is warped. Try a cast iron Zenith like the car had originally.

[Trapdoor2]

Be aware that this type of fitting does not seal on the threads. You must have a smooth sealing surface down at the bottom of the threads in the carburetor or the ferrule will not 'bite' and seal. Snyder's sells a rotary grinding wheel (for your dremel, I used a hurdy-gurdy hand crank drill) to grind the seat clean, esp. for rusty Zeniths. It should also work for the Tillotson if it is needed.

The brass ferrule is actually swaged to the fuel line when you torque the nut down properly...the ferrule shouldn't be removable after a proper installation.

The Tillotson has enough threads that the fitting can be safely torqued down...if they're in good shape. If you have a Zenith in good condition, I'd install the ferrule (setting the protrusion properly, etc.) using the Zenith (cast iron) and then use it on the Tillotson.

[Bill Cilker]

There are two different tubing nuts for use with ferrules. From your picture, I believe that you have the style that has the ferrule attached to the nut. The other style has the ferrule separate from the nut. You should have the second style where the nut is slid on to the gas tube and then the ferrule is slid on.

[Herb Concord Ca]

Your local hardware store should sell 1/4" brass compression ferrules, check in the plumbing dept. They work OK.

[rotorwrench]

Ford used the tapered tip compression fittings for many years. If tightened a few times too many or too tight, the tip chokes down on the tube and causes wear during removal of both tube and fitting. A new tube assembly should correct the problem. The fittings are available but it helps to know the part number. The ferule type compression fitting may work OK but that depends on the condition of the carb inlet boss

[Himi52]

Hi,
If you have a bad ferrule, how is the best way to remove it?
Thanks

[rotorwrench]

The ferule compresses down onto the tube and sometimes so tight that it would have to be destroyed to remove it. With the tube being thin and easily damaged, it may not be possible to remove. I would try a dremel tool with cutting wheel to start a score then use a needle file to deepen the score as far as I could with out contacting the tube. If it is as thin as paper then it may be easy to crack with a small cape chisel or apply pressure with the right pair of small pliers or a plier type end cutter and see if it will break with movement. This could be a tedious process but it may work.

[Ray in La Mesa]

If your fuel line is long enough you could just cut behind the ferule & use a new one.

[RENNERS CORNER]

From the Ford drawing !!!

Were are people coming up with some of this stuff they are posting ????