Installing a 39 Transmission in a Woody

[Vic in E-TN]

More than 25 years ago I was passing through California and I found a 39 transmission for sale at a long Beach Swap. It was sold by Meets who existed then. My desire was to put it into a Model A. Time passed and I moved to Tennessee. I thought about finding it in my garage and seeing what I had. Bert's was making the replacement piece between the trans and the bell housing. I opened the box and found that and all the other parts already there.


I now have the thought of getting a synchro trans from Mitchell and selling the 39 trans.


Does anyone have the personal experience of installing a 39 trans in a standard Model A chassis? I would like to hear from you either by private message or this thread. We can discuss by phone also.


Vic

[Jim Brierley]

If you have all the Berts kit, use it and stay with the '39.

[ModelA29]

Mine has the 39 Trans. It's got the Clings adapter kit. No mods to the frame to install. Looks straight forward.
Make sure you have all the pieces before you start - https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...roduct_id=3656
Van Pelt is the go to place if you need early Ford trans parts. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/VPPSweb/VPPS-homepg.htm

[Dodge]

Amen on all the above, with the Cling's kit it all installs like it was supposed to be in there.

[Zax40]

I also have a 39 trans swapped in my A with a Clings kit. The only part that was not included was a bracket to reattach the brake light switch. I was able to make a simple bracket without much trouble. It really changed the drive-ability of the car.

[ModelA29]

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Originally Posted by Zax40

I also have a 39 trans swapped in my A with a Clings kit. The only part that was not included was a bracket to reattach the brake light switch.

My car also has a Mitchell OD and they had butchered the brake light switch to get it mounted. The Mitchell shifter was also an obstacle. The classic is how they shortened the switch activating link. I've toyed with the idea of drilling the frame and adding a 30-31 brake switch. My car already has the later pedal to cross shaft rod with the button on the end.

[Vic in E-TN]

I received a private message from Neil Mylar and have been trying to respond to him in the messages without success. If you can contact him, please ask him to contact me with another message.
Thanks,
Vic

[Zax40]

Originally Posted by ModelA29

My car also has a Mitchell OD and they had butchered the brake light switch to get it mounted. The Mitchell shifter was also an obstacle. The classic is how they shortened the switch activating link. I've toyed with the idea of drilling the frame and adding a 30-31 brake switch. My car already has the later pedal to cross shaft rod with the button on the end.

Yikes!

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by Zax40

Yikes!

Yes - I put in a new switch. Trimmed the side where it rubbed the brake rod. Made a new link and added a plastic shield to the wires just because everything is so close.

[Benson]

1. Yes we had same problem with 28-29 switch and how to mount it.

2. We drilled frame for 30-31 switch which "sort of" works. After a short time the brake pedal starts to hang up and "sticks" and releases with a clunking sound. Main problems are the button on end of rod hangs up on and bends the repro 31 switch so it sits at a 45 degree angle. I found a new A&L switch which looks to be stronger. Will try that this weekend.

If that fails will go back to original 28 /29 switch and make a bracket to mount the 28 switch.

By the way Mitchell manufactures a special shift lever mounting that they sell for the Mitchell Over Drive shift lever problem with V8 transmission

Sorry I was not involved with Mitchell shift lever part of the problem so can not say what the problems with the Mitchell Over Drive shifter were..

ModelA29 please post a photo of your solution! I would be interested to see how you did it.

[Benson]

ModelA29,

Please post a photo of your solution! I would be interested to see how you did it.

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by Benson

ModelA29,

Please post a photo of your solution! I would be interested to see how you did it.

Basically it looks the same I trimmed about 1/8" off the left edge of the bottom flange on the switch. I made a shorter link that is straight. I cut a 90 degree piece of plastic from the corner of a milk jug (3" long 1" on each side) put 2 holes in it that clear the nuts on the bottom of the switch (put it on then wire the switch) the rest hangs down on the right side where the switch is close to the OD bracket. As long as the wires or switch don't come loose it's overkill.
Next time I've got the floor out I'll take a pic.


I'll check on the Mitchell bracket. I switched to a straight shift knob about 7/8" in dia because the regular knob would rub on the shifter and Ebrake handle.