The Ford Barn

rbassemir · 03-17-2026, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScubaChief60

Been thru this too and my fix was as follows:

As 'kevinshea' said and I agree with him, 'use a 6v inline fuel pump/filter set up'... between the tank and the mechanical fuel pump. Mine is on a toggle switch so I easily power it up on demand.

Also there are insulating spacers available (they profile the same shape as the gasket between the carb and manifold) that prevent the carb from heating up so much since it is sitting right on top of the Intake manifold. I had vapor lock at least a few times before i used this spacer that is about 3/4 inch thick. The spacer is placed between the bottom of the carb and the top of the manifold mounting location.

With these two upgrades, I have never again had an issue.

Once in a while on a hot day when pulling a big hill, I have had my 85 hp stutter (lack of fuel) but a quick toggle on with the electric fuel pump untill I crest the hill and all is fine once again.

Hope this helps you!

I've been looking for those insulating spacers but have not found one yet. I have a Holly 94 style carb. Can you point me to a vendor that has them?

The Art Doctor · 03-18-2026, 07:18 AM

Dashman's is the only one I am aware of that makes the phenolic spacers.

https://www.ebay.com/str/dashmanshotrodandspeedparts

If you are crafty you can make one out of plywood using a gasket as a template, its basically the same thing. But their prices are so low I have bought several from them rather than make one.

rbassemir · 03-18-2026, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Art Doctor

Dashman's is the only one I am aware of that makes the phenolic spacers.

https://www.ebay.com/str/dashmanshotrodandspeedparts

If you are crafty you can make one out of plywood using a gasket as a template, its basically the same thing. But their prices are so low I have bought several from them rather than make one.

Fantastic, Thanks!!

hueyhoolihan · 03-18-2026, 01:12 PM

the hole in a cog will expand in size when heated is what i keep in mind when dealing with objects stuck on a metal rod. it's important to know too, that the rod will also expand when heated. so's best to try to direct the heat to the cog rather than the rod. it's how the ring gear was put on my flywheel about half a century ago.

here's a brief explanation as to why...

A hole in a cog (or any metal object) expands when heated because the metal atoms vibrate more intensely, forcing them to move farther apart from each other. This, known as thermal expansion, causes the entire object—including the boundaries of the hole—to expand uniformly outwards, increasing its size.

rbassemir · 03-18-2026, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcgarrett

I might also recommend that you inspect the flexible rubber fuel hose that connects the steel line coming from the tank to the fuel pump. I know for a fact that due to the effects of ethanol gas and/or old age they can develop a strange condition that will allow fuel to flow for a short time and then as temperatures rise they begin to suck air and fuel delivery rates drop drastically. It happened to me and a friend of mine also had the problem. His truck would start and run fine...for a while - until underhood temps rose to a certain level and then the truck would die like it was starving for gas, which indeed it was but turns out it wasn't the pump OR vapor lock.

As a test, my buddy showed me a video where he removed the rubber fuel hose, blocked one end, submerged the hose in a bowl of water and introduced compressed air with his blow gun to the other end. I couldn't believe the air bubbles coming from tiny cracks in the rubber up and down the hose. He replaced the hose and that solved his problem.

Today I removed the 2 inch rubber fuel line on the tank side of the fuel pump and clamped off one end and applied a vacuum to the other end (with a vacuum gauge/pump). Amazing it could not hold the vacuum applied at all. I took a new fuel line with a thicker wall and did the same test. It held a vacuum. Looks like that old rubber hose could be a source of the air leak.

I put in the new fuel line and started the Ford up..... I still see bubbles in the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb. I also tried to tighten the fuel pump diaphragm bolts (maybe 1/8 turn). Still see air bubbles in the fuel line.

I am leaning towards an electric fuel pump.

Flathead Fever · 03-19-2026, 06:44 AM

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If you decide to install an electric fuel pump, just to start it and then turn it off and run on the mechanical pump you must make sure the electric pump is an "open" type, that is one that you can blow through when the pump is turned off. Most pumps are the opposite they are closed when there is no power to them, they are made both ways. You want the fuel to be able to go through the pump when it's turned off and running on the mechanical pump. Then you want a low-pressure pump, there are just a couple Airtex pumps that are open when off and have a low pressure for the old Ford carbs, so you don't overflow your carb. If you install a regular electric pump, it will flood over and then your will need to install regulator which I have had nothing but problems with. The Airtex catalog has a section where they list the electric pumps by pressure and if they are open or closed when off. I was automotive mechanic for 30-years. Every year they would send out new parts catalogs, and I would take the old one's home. Try and find the Airtex catalog online and find the reference pages that lists the electric fuel pumps in order, then find an "open" when off pump, 6V or 12V, and 1 1/2 lbs. of pressure. Then mount it as close to the tank as possible with large fiter before the electric pump.

ScubaChief60 · 03-19-2026, 07:40 AM

Hello 'rbassemir',

RE: "So, Scubachief, You had the electric fuel pump in line with the mechanical fuel pump? So when you had the electric fuel pump off, the mechanical pump was strong enough to suck gas through the electrical pump when it was not running?"

I installed a Flow Thru type 6 volt electric fuel pump... and with it in your hand, preinstalled, you can easily blow air thru it.. and fuel easily flows thru without restriction too. The original rebuilt mechanical fuel pump has no issues at all pulling in the fuel.

I might add that I replaced the fuel tank and the fuel lines as part of the very first upgrades when I began my restore.

Hope this helps.

Take care!

ScubaChief60 · 03-19-2026, 07:47 AM

I relearned... that it helps to pump the accelerator pedal three or four times prior to cranking. I recalled in the old days I had to do this with my 1965 Buick Skylark and read that in a post on this site a few years back and on then recalled having to do that in the old pre-fuel injection days. Give that a try as well.

hueyhoolihan · 03-19-2026, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScubaChief60

I relearned... that it helps to pump the accelerator pedal three or four times prior to cranking. I recalled in the old days I had to do this with my 1965 Buick Skylark and read that in a post on this site a few years back and on then recalled having to do that in the old pre-fuel injection days. Give that a try as well.

it's because most carbureted cars BITD had an accelerator pump built into the carb. like the ones on these cars, that pumped extra raw gasoline right down the barrel of the carb when the gas pedal was pumped. not all carbs used such a thing though.

bad news is that also permitted the flooding of the engine with little effort if applied with too much enthusiasm.

rbassemir · 03-21-2026, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinshea

I use a 6v inline fuel pump/filter set up that is readily available in Ebay.. there is also a seller offering the same set up with a 1-5PSI regulator.. I use all NiCopper lines that are easily bendable and give them a wide radius as needed, Pump and filter are between rubber hoses making replacement pretty easy. I mount the pump on the frame rail just about under the drivers seat.

I bought an electric fuel pump and working on the installation. In your setup, do you leave the mechanical pump inline or did you remove it / or by pass it with the electric pump.

Scubaking also used an electric fuel pump but I don't know his set up left the mechanical pump in line with the electric fuel pump. He said he toggles the electric fuel pump on / off manually as needed if the engine sputters. So I am guessing he leaves the mechanical pump in line.

rbassemir · 03-21-2026, 03:14 PM

Thanks Scubacheif, I missed your earlier replay.

rbassemir · 03-21-2026, 03:18 PM

great input Flathead Fever ... I will have to check to see if the one I bought is open.

ScubaChief60 · 03-21-2026, 06:59 PM

Good evening,

I do still have the mechanical fuel pump installed... and it is inside the engine compartment so that it is mostly pulling fuel vs. pushing fuel. I have the flow thru type 6 volt electric pump installed so it is situated between the tank and the mechanical fuel pump. It is also a low pressure type pump and I seem to recall it is no stronger than 5 psi.

It makes sense to have the electric fuel pump installed in the fuel line closer to the fuel tank since it pushes better than it pulls the fuel... but mine is within 18 inches of the mechanical pump and has worked just fine pulling fuel.

I control the electric pump from a toggle switch mounted under the dash within easy reach of my right hand should i need it while on the road.

I was waiting at a road construction hold-up the summer before last... before I had mounted the phenolic spacer [ https://nystromperformance.com/produ...p-adapter-copy ]. Engine stuttered and shut down. Vapor lock. I powered up the electric pump which apparently re primed the carburetor and with just a bit of cranking I was able to get the old gal running and decided to turn around and go another way. Point is that the electric pump saved my trip that time for sure.

Now with the electric pump installed and with the phenolic spacer isolating my Holley 94 carburetor from manifold heat, i have not had a single other issue. Now I do use pure gasoline with is less prone to vapor lock over ethanol blends I am advised.

This setup removes a lot of stress such as the stress of having a great breakfast with my wife... and then getting back into the old gal for the ride home only to have it not fire up. That happened a few times before I made all of the upgrades mentioned above.

Another great upgrade was ditching the standard lead acid 6 volt battery for a optima red top battery.

Hope this helps in your decision making... and all on this forum weigh in if you see anything else I should do to improve my old gal.

03-18-2026, 07:18 AM	#22
The Art Doctor Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2025 Location: Atlanta, Georgia Posts: 226	Re: Failing fuel pump Dashman's is the only one I am aware of that makes the phenolic spacers. https://www.ebay.com/str/dashmanshotrodandspeedparts If you are crafty you can make one out of plywood using a gasket as a template, its basically the same thing. But their prices are so low I have bought several from them rather than make one.

03-18-2026, 01:12 PM	#24
hueyhoolihan Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2024 Location: central coast california Posts: 594	Re: Failing fuel pump the hole in a cog will expand in size when heated is what i keep in mind when dealing with objects stuck on a metal rod. it's important to know too, that the rod will also expand when heated. so's best to try to direct the heat to the cog rather than the rod. it's how the ring gear was put on my flywheel about half a century ago. here's a brief explanation as to why... A hole in a cog (or any metal object) expands when heated because the metal atoms vibrate more intensely, forcing them to move farther apart from each other. This, known as thermal expansion, causes the entire object—including the boundaries of the hole—to expand uniformly outwards, increasing its size. Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 03-18-2026 at 01:20 PM.

03-19-2026, 06:44 AM	#26
Flathead Fever Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Yucaipa, CA Posts: 1,492	Re: Failing fuel pump Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) If you decide to install an electric fuel pump, just to start it and then turn it off and run on the mechanical pump you must make sure the electric pump is an "open" type, that is one that you can blow through when the pump is turned off. Most pumps are the opposite they are closed when there is no power to them, they are made both ways. You want the fuel to be able to go through the pump when it's turned off and running on the mechanical pump. Then you want a low-pressure pump, there are just a couple Airtex pumps that are open when off and have a low pressure for the old Ford carbs, so you don't overflow your carb. If you install a regular electric pump, it will flood over and then your will need to install regulator which I have had nothing but problems with. The Airtex catalog has a section where they list the electric pumps by pressure and if they are open or closed when off. I was automotive mechanic for 30-years. Every year they would send out new parts catalogs, and I would take the old one's home. Try and find the Airtex catalog online and find the reference pages that lists the electric fuel pumps in order, then find an "open" when off pump, 6V or 12V, and 1 1/2 lbs. of pressure. Then mount it as close to the tank as possible with large fiter before the electric pump. Last edited by Flathead Fever; 03-19-2026 at 06:58 AM.

03-19-2026, 07:40 AM	#27
ScubaChief60 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Summerfield, NC Posts: 256	Re: Failing fuel pump Hello 'rbassemir', RE: "So, Scubachief, You had the electric fuel pump in line with the mechanical fuel pump? So when you had the electric fuel pump off, the mechanical pump was strong enough to suck gas through the electrical pump when it was not running?" I installed a Flow Thru type 6 volt electric fuel pump... and with it in your hand, preinstalled, you can easily blow air thru it.. and fuel easily flows thru without restriction too. The original rebuilt mechanical fuel pump has no issues at all pulling in the fuel. I might add that I replaced the fuel tank and the fuel lines as part of the very first upgrades when I began my restore. Hope this helps. Take care!

03-19-2026, 07:47 AM	#28
ScubaChief60 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Summerfield, NC Posts: 256	Re: Failing fuel pump I relearned... that it helps to pump the accelerator pedal three or four times prior to cranking. I recalled in the old days I had to do this with my 1965 Buick Skylark and read that in a post on this site a few years back and on then recalled having to do that in the old pre-fuel injection days. Give that a try as well.

03-21-2026, 03:14 PM	#31
rbassemir Member Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 59	Re: Failing fuel pump Thanks Scubacheif, I missed your earlier replay. __________________ Rich Last edited by rbassemir; 03-21-2026 at 03:14 PM. Reason: typo

03-21-2026, 03:18 PM	#32
rbassemir Member Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Austin, Texas Posts: 59	Re: Failing fuel pump great input Flathead Fever ... I will have to check to see if the one I bought is open. __________________ Rich Last edited by rbassemir; 03-21-2026 at 03:18 PM. Reason: typo

03-21-2026, 06:59 PM	#33
ScubaChief60 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2023 Location: Summerfield, NC Posts: 256	Re: Failing fuel pump Good evening, I do still have the mechanical fuel pump installed... and it is inside the engine compartment so that it is mostly pulling fuel vs. pushing fuel. I have the flow thru type 6 volt electric pump installed so it is situated between the tank and the mechanical fuel pump. It is also a low pressure type pump and I seem to recall it is no stronger than 5 psi. It makes sense to have the electric fuel pump installed in the fuel line closer to the fuel tank since it pushes better than it pulls the fuel... but mine is within 18 inches of the mechanical pump and has worked just fine pulling fuel. I control the electric pump from a toggle switch mounted under the dash within easy reach of my right hand should i need it while on the road. I was waiting at a road construction hold-up the summer before last... before I had mounted the phenolic spacer [ https://nystromperformance.com/produ...p-adapter-copy ]. Engine stuttered and shut down. Vapor lock. I powered up the electric pump which apparently re primed the carburetor and with just a bit of cranking I was able to get the old gal running and decided to turn around and go another way. Point is that the electric pump saved my trip that time for sure. Now with the electric pump installed and with the phenolic spacer isolating my Holley 94 carburetor from manifold heat, i have not had a single other issue. Now I do use pure gasoline with is less prone to vapor lock over ethanol blends I am advised. This setup removes a lot of stress such as the stress of having a great breakfast with my wife... and then getting back into the old gal for the ride home only to have it not fire up. That happened a few times before I made all of the upgrades mentioned above. Another great upgrade was ditching the standard lead acid 6 volt battery for a optima red top battery. Hope this helps in your decision making... and all on this forum weigh in if you see anything else I should do to improve my old gal.