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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Lyman,ME.
Posts: 3,024
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I'm thinkin' about crankin' My ragged ol' truck up and haulin' myself into town. Billy Joe Shaver…RIP Last edited by flatford8; 03-05-2026 at 08:41 AM. |
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 195
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If you have a Merc crank is sized and uses the early rods, I would carry it to a machine shop and have the stroke verified. If it has the early rod size jornals it has been "stroked," your 4" pistons will not work in that combinaton.
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#23 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2026
Posts: 11
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yeah i think i'm going to just buy a more compatible crank from scat. when i baught it I didn't know all this about how guys used to grind them down to get a longer stroke. I'd rather have the later rods in it than mess with the floating bearings. i listed it on marketplace but around here there doesn't seem to be a lot of interest in the flathead stuff. I had a spare complete engine i had sitting around in case i needed it, listed it for i think just under 100 bucks. had maybe one question about it and it's still sitting in the shop. but you never know.
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Paducah Ky
Posts: 420
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Where are you located, Matthew? There may be someone local who can help out with your decisions.
Just remember, Murphy's Law is not a suggestion! Al H |
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#25 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,006
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The old floaters are better than the locked in bearings but the problem is finding a good set of floaters with steel backings. Some of the new stuff is cast bronze and they can split from each other between the two paired rods on the crank journal. A well fit set of steel backed floaters is a very good set up in my book.
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#26 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2026
Posts: 11
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