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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2025
Location: Rockville MD
Posts: 12
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Hello,
I am overhauling a Ford 94-59 carburetor from the mid/late 1940s. I have it all cleaned out and am ready to reassemble, but I have had a hard time confirming most of the specs. Or at least I haven't been able to find them. I have done lots of Carters for pre-War GM cars and their specs are very detailed. This is what I have measured. If any of these seem off let me know. Throttle body Fuel intake ports in upper flange 40 drill (0.098") Lower idle ports 56 drill (0.465") Note: I did find this spec and it is 0.037" but the years with the needles have probably enlarged them some Upper idle ports Could not measure due to plate interference but spec is 0.0395" Main body Accel pump outlet in well 44 drill (0.086") Crossover idle out 40 drill Pwr valve to main well port 60 drill (0.040") Center well port to accel pump out 45 drill (0.082") Crossovers To idle ports in body 40 drill Main air bleed ports at bottom 57 drill (0.043") 2 top bleeds 52 drill (0.0635") Main intake tubes (2 on each on same side) 42 drill (0.0935") Idle tube intake 54 drill (0.055") Idle tube out 71 drill (0.026") Any guidance would be appreciated while it is still apart. Note: I just realized I forgot to measure the accel pump output nozzles. Will post tomorrow. Thanks, Dave |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Take a look at page #424, "Holley 94 Carburetor Specifications" of the Techno pdf in my signature below.
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#3 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2025
Location: Rockville MD
Posts: 12
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Glenn
Wow! This is a great resource and thanks for making it available. It has a very good description of the functioning of the carb but unfortunately not the detailed specs I am looking for. I realize there are many different variations and perhaps it is difficult to round them all up in one place. I will keep looking. Thanks Dave |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Good Dave, glad you like it. If you do come up with the additional specs you're after, please post them and I'll add it to the pdf.
Glenn
__________________
Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Mart has a nice video on disassembling and cleaning a couple of 94s. Not sure why you want the drill sizes. Ultrasonic cleaning first, compressed air and then welding tip cleaners are the usual. I like to repeat again to make sure I get everything properly cleaned.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UMiWUQyIkmg
__________________
Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 7,634
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Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Quote:
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Alan |
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#7 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2025
Location: Rockville MD
Posts: 12
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Thanks all! I never did find any detailed specs. And I am sure they are out there somewhere but not readily discoverable on the net right now.
To answer why I want them, I have overhauled a fair number of carbs of this era. Many of them I got off ebay as cores and some were in bad condition. Most of these were pre-war Carters. The documentation on Carters is pretty complete and included the sizes of various orifices, idle tubes, etc. I found that even with thorough cleaning (carb cleaner soak followed by ultrasonic, small brush and pegwood to remove the stubborn dirt) there were still hardened deposits that reduced diameters by sometimes significant amounts, especially on the very small ones, like 68 drill or smaller. Doing a light ream with the proper drill will remove these deposits and hopefully gets them back to what was intended by the designers. Obviously I am not removing metal. Once I started doing this I noticed that my results were more reliable and uniform. This is just my experience but YMMV. Cheers Dave |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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Thanks Dave
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