The Ford Barn

katy · 02-06-2026, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FFOG

When I pulled the negative cable I found a surprise. I think it is safe to say that this was the source of the electrical problem I was having. I have owned the car for 4 days. It looks like that has been there for quite sometime! It was on the underneath side of the cable pressing against the battery.

What did you find?

katy · 02-06-2026, 11:11 AM

Deleted, duplicate post

rotorwrench · 02-06-2026, 11:32 AM

The starter switch has a cross shaped plastic link that insulates the start pedal shaft from the switch contact components. They can break and not allow the switch to work. Check that before checking the starter. If you don't have a starting hand crank, get one from a model A supply source. If you can hand crank the engine, there is no stuck bendix. Also find a model A owner's instruction manual on line somewhere if you don't have a wiring diagram. The model A electrical system is about as simple as they come.

chap52 · 02-07-2026, 07:25 AM

Good job chasing that frustrating rabbit.
I have been known to paint things and they looked great but I had to go back and do as you did and scrape away some of that pretty paint to restore a connection.
Thanks for the update, it will help many. Chap

FFOG · 02-07-2026, 10:50 AM

Thanks, Chap!
I learned a lot!

FFOG · 02-07-2026, 11:07 AM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Sorry, I thought I had added the pic.

Cable.jpg

Canton_Model_A's · 02-07-2026, 11:23 AM

Yikes, is that screw 'welded' to that terminal?

katy · 02-07-2026, 11:37 AM

If unsure about a battery cable, disconnect both ends and replace it temporarily with a heavy "Jumper Cable", something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/Lorries-Commer...0&gad_source=1

nkaminar · 02-07-2026, 12:33 PM

Looks like that cable is s****ed. Hang it on the wall.

Chuck Sea/Tac · 02-08-2026, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Looks like that cable is s****ed. Hang it on the wall.

A definite candidate for the “shelf of shame”!

rotorwrench · 02-08-2026, 06:53 PM

I've seen folks drive screws between the battery post and cable clamp but that's the first one I've seen driven between the clamp and it's conductor cable. It's way past time for a new cable assembly. Just make sure the new one is a minimum of 2 gage or larger. 6-volt systems need the lowest resistane cable you can get. Modern 12-volt parts aren't adequate for 6-volts.

02-06-2026, 11:11 AM	#22
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 6,071	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter Deleted, duplicate post __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

02-06-2026, 11:32 AM	#23
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 18,006	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter The starter switch has a cross shaped plastic link that insulates the start pedal shaft from the switch contact components. They can break and not allow the switch to work. Check that before checking the starter. If you don't have a starting hand crank, get one from a model A supply source. If you can hand crank the engine, there is no stuck bendix. Also find a model A owner's instruction manual on line somewhere if you don't have a wiring diagram. The model A electrical system is about as simple as they come.

02-07-2026, 07:25 AM	#24
chap52 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Marana Arizona Posts: 1,869	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter Good job chasing that frustrating rabbit. I have been known to paint things and they looked great but I had to go back and do as you did and scrape away some of that pretty paint to restore a connection. Thanks for the update, it will help many. Chap

02-07-2026, 10:50 AM	#25
FFOG Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2025 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 17	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter Thanks, Chap! I learned a lot!

02-07-2026, 11:07 AM	#26
FFOG Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2025 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 17	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Sorry, I thought I had added the pic. Cable.jpg

02-07-2026, 11:23 AM	#27
Canton_Model_A's Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2022 Location: Canton, Michigan Posts: 388	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter Yikes, is that screw 'welded' to that terminal? __________________ --------------------------------------- 1929 Model A Tudor - "Darla" '29 Model A: Old enough to start with a crank, young enough to steal the show! "Stay away from negative people, they have a problem for every solution" Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Motor City A's Club

02-07-2026, 11:37 AM	#28
katy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Red Deer, Alberta Posts: 6,071	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter If unsure about a battery cable, disconnect both ends and replace it temporarily with a heavy "Jumper Cable", something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Lorries-Commer...0&gad_source=1 __________________ If you don't hear a rumor by 10 AM, start one!. Got my education out behind the barn!

02-07-2026, 12:33 PM	#29
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 6,847	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter Looks like that cable is s****ed. Hang it on the wall. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

02-08-2026, 06:53 PM	#31
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 18,006	Re: New Battery, No Power/Lights/Starter I've seen folks drive screws between the battery post and cable clamp but that's the first one I've seen driven between the clamp and it's conductor cable. It's way past time for a new cable assembly. Just make sure the new one is a minimum of 2 gage or larger. 6-volt systems need the lowest resistane cable you can get. Modern 12-volt parts aren't adequate for 6-volts.