Lubrication Question

[jtucker]

I have installed a full-flow oil filter on my A. It is the one that mount on the valve cover and sticks out horizontally. The output tube from the oil pump is extended and goes directly into the oil filter.

On first startup, the filter is empty and has to be filled up by the pump before any oil goes out to the engine. I have seen someone on this forum estimate that based on measure pump outflow rates it could take 2-3 minutes of the engine running to fill the filter.

My question is how to best handle this period of "dry" running to minimize wear. I have had two suggestions that I like:
1. dump a couple of quarts of oil in through the distributer hole just before startup and;
2. put only enough gas in the tank to run 2-3 minutes and add a little 2-cycle oil to the gas.

What do you think? Is there better way? Am I making mountain out of the proverbial molehill?

Thanks.
Jim

[mcgarrett]

Do some research on the filter you're using. Many of the better quality name-brand oil filters nowadays have an anti-drain back valve inside - a simple rubber flapper. This valve keeps the filter from emptying itself when the engine is shut down and prevents a semi dry start condition. It remains full of oil so there should be no delay in getting oil to the engine at start up.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by jtucker

I have installed a full-flow oil filter on my A. It is the one that mount on the valve cover and sticks out horizontally. The output tube from the oil pump is extended and goes directly into the oil filter.

On first startup, the filter is empty and has to be filled up by the pump before any oil goes out to the engine. I have seen someone on this forum estimate that based on measure pump outflow rates it could take 2-3 minutes of the engine running to fill the filter.

My question is how to best handle this period of "dry" running to minimize wear. I have had two suggestions that I like:
1. dump a couple of quarts of oil in through the distributer hole just before startup and;
2. put only enough gas in the tank to run 2-3 minutes and add a little 2-cycle oil to the gas.

What do you think? Is there better way? Am I making mountain out of the proverbial molehill?

Thanks.
Jim

Are you asking for the very first start up after a rebuild? I would go with putting some oil down the distributor hole.

After initial start up, the filter should stay full.

[mcgarrett]

Do as YBlock said - pour at least 2 quarts of oil down the distributor hole BEFORE initial start up. Although it's a little messy at first, you could also pre-fill the filter with oil and then install it. Would minimize the time it would take for the filter to fill with oil when starting the engine for the first time.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by jtucker

I have seen someone on this forum estimate that based on measure pump outflow rates it could take 2-3 minutes of the engine running to fill the filter.

That test was measuring the bypass setup, not the full-flow setup you have. With the full-flow, the entire output of the oil pump goes directly into the filter. It fills within a couple of seconds. If you’re worried about it, crank the engine for 5-10 seconds with the key off and the plugs out. This will run the pump long enough to fill the filter and start oil going into the valve chamber. With the plugs out, you won’t be sucking gas into the cylinders.

[nkaminar]

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If your filter is oriented vertically you can fill the filter with oil before starting the engine.

[Bruce of MN]

My 2019 Ford has a horizontal filter. I can pour a lot of oil in the center hole and it doesn't come out when I turn it to screw it onto the fitting.

[Phil Brown]

You can also get a 90 degree adapter for the filter (Ford used them on their 70's van's) to aid in pre filling the filter
Removing the spark plugs also removes the load on the crank and rod bearings while cranking over the motor to fill the filter

[Werner]

Hey Jim,


I installed it exactly the same way as you. Thanks to my previous job, I had the opportunity to measure the low oil pressure before and after the filter. When the engine is started and running at 600 RPM, it takes about 20 seconds for the oil filter to fill and for oil to be pumped into the cascades. This is at approximately 20°C and with SAE 20W-40 oil.
The engine doesn't notice this delay because there's still some residual oil present at all the lubrication points.


Regarding the advice to only crank the engine with the starter motor, you should know that the pump delivers very little oil at the relatively low speed. You have to crank it for a long time.

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by Werner

Thanks to my previous job, I had the opportunity to measure the low oil pressure before and after the filter. When the engine is started and running at 600 RPM, it takes about 20 seconds for the oil filter to fill and for oil to be pumped into the cascades.

Werner, how exactly did you measure this?

[jeepguy1948]

As said above most filters now have a valve that prevents draining.

I installed the 90 degree adapter because I thought it looked better and most importantly it made changing the filter much, much, easier. The only one I could find was a blue anodized piece so I painted it engine color and I think it looks good.

[jtucker]

Thanks for all the good information. I will try to prefill the filter before I install it ans pour some oil down the distributor hole. Great discussion!
Thanks, Jim

[katy]

Here's what the adaptor looks like:

[Herb Concord Ca]

Werner, why did you insulate the oil filter? I believe that is what that material is that is around the oil filter.
Thanks.

[Werner]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

Werner, how exactly did you measure this?

Alexis,
this is an intermediate flange with a sandwich construction. This separates the inlet and outlet channels. Two pressure gauges are mounted on each level. The differential pressure then gives the filter resistance in %.

Werner, why did you insulate the oil filter? I believe that is what that material is that is around the oil filter.

Herb,
You're right. I measured the oil temperature, and when driving gently, the oil always stays too cold, below 70°C. So I insulated the filter to prevent the oil from losing even more heat.
I have a simple temperature sensor-label attached to the front of the filter, which tells me the highest temperature that the oilfilter reached.

[CT Jack]

Just drive it! It didn't have a filter when it came from the factory. I wonder how many Barners have driven their "A's" with 3 quarts or less of oil in the crankcase. If the original engine had a pressurized lubrication system then you would need to be concerned about having a fully purged system.

[old31]

I have been using the exact 90-degree elbow that Katy shows on both of my cars for years. No spill when removed, and fill the filter before installation.

I have a spare. PM me if interested. $135. + $12 shipping, pay by Paypal.

[ModelA29]

FleaBay is your friend $35
https://www.ebay.com/itm/20435869499...EVREF4E4ZPMV54

[1928 Sport Coupe]

Be careful with these parts. I purchased one awhile back.
The Model A valve cover filter adapter is made to use an FL-1A Motorcraft filter or equivalent, the nipple is 3/4"-16. The 90 degree adapter input end screws onto the 3/4"-16 nipple fine but the output end of this 90 degree adapters is supplied with a 22x1.5mm nipple and uses a FL-820-S Motorcraft oil filter or equivalent. That would have been ok, except the output nipple will not screw into the 90 degree housing, it will only screw in about 1/4 of a turn before it gets tight. Either the female thread is out of specification or the nipple is. The supplied nipple will screw into the FL-820-S filter ok.
Ideally I thought the output should be the same as the valve cover adapter is. Then you could use the Motorcraft FL-1A or FL-400-S or equivalent filters. I use FL-820-S filters on two of my other vehicles so I thought that would be OK.

[Randall]

https://youtu.be/9YXjaxxC7rE?si=3hjP2ezEiBit84gL